Transmission pan gasket choice

My second transmission fluid swap is coming up and I’d like to pull the pan and change the filter/etc.

I notice that Toyota uses a FIPG but most aftermarket filters come with a gasket.

The “easy button” answer is always the aftermarket gasket, but I was hoping to get some opinions from folks who might have gone either way?

Any opinions on aftermarket filter screens would also be welcome.

 

FIPG is some pretty good stuff.
I’d probably just use it myself.

@gearcruncher would probably be the guy to ask.
He has far more experience with pans than I do.

 

FIPG!!

 

I like using cork for the simple reason if you gotta remove it again , there,s no scraping involved . Yup , I am lazy
There are re-usable pan gaskets also available that have the metal loops around each bolt hole and then there are pan gaskets made of tough farpak .
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~automatic~transmission~oil~pan~35168-60010.html

If you really want to break down and purchase a filter , you should grab one from the dealer . If you are good with brake clean and a flashlight , you can wash your filter and put it back in service , then buy a 10 ounce bottle of Lubeguard Platinum with the money you saved on the filter

$16 Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MB57UI
Some of those offshore aftermarket filters do not flow well .

Some reading before you drop the pan

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

 

I’d take this guys advice ^^^^^^

Also, those pan bolts can strip or break easily.
They are in INCH lbs.

Good luck buddy, keep us updated.

 

How true .
Had one in for a service the other day . All the bolts were going to break ,so I lubed up all the bolts and told him to come back in two weeks . Also gave him my last can of General Motors heat riser lubricant . I cant find anymore of that stuff

 

The filter is just a screen. The gain from changing it is not worth the effort.

Drain the pan and refill.

 

Are you saying skip dropping the pan entirely?

I did the full swap minus pan drop at 80k miles - I figured I would drop the pan this time.

 

I wouldnt .
Edit . I better edit this quick .
Always drop the pan ! period

 

Yes. Very little gain. When you do a drain, you are back flushing the screen.

The real damage comes from particles that the screen can't trap.

Replacing the fluid is the best preventive medicine.

I'm not going to get into a fluid flush argument, but I see little to no value with that as well.

 

It is worth dropping the pan.
There is a magnet in there that will probably be full of metal shavings.
Once you get them out, you can probably get away with drain and fills for a long time.

We’ll see what gearcruncher says.

 

Edit: changed his post

 

Take his advice. Not mine.

 

You weren’t quick enough.

 

Clear as mud.

 

I gave my reply an edit . I meant to say I would not service the transmission without removing the pan . Ever


You can roll the dice , but you do risk contaminating your valve body . A couple of our fellow members are going through greif as I type this .In fact , as the 2nd gen transmission gets older , its happening more and more
pop the pan off and wash everything up . Its a little messy and will cost you a pan gasket , but its a more thorough procedure
Your old transmission fluid worked hard all its life by depositing contaminates in the bottom of the pan . Chances are the additives in your transmission fluid are depleted .
Now you add fresh transmission fluid with a super high detergent content to a transmission with a dirty pan . The fresh detergents lift the particles that the old fluid deposited and force them into the valve body and solenoids .

 

Gotcha - the plan was for a pan drop. I’ll keep on that plan.

 

I dropped the pan and replaced the screen about a month ago. My truck is a 2010 4L and when I took off the pan, there was a cork gasket. I replaced the gasket with a new Toyota cork gasket. My magnets had done their job and particles where sticking to them.

This was the 2nd time I replaced the transmission fluid. 1st time was around 100K Km and I didn't drop the pan. 2nd time was 200K Km and I dropped the pan and replaced the screen. My only advice would be to make sure you don't over tighten the drain plug. 1st time I changed it, turns out I over tightened the drain plug and stripped the pan/bolt... And I used a torque wrench. This forced me to replace the pan the 2nd time and I tightened the drain plug by feel this time...

 

I bought this one on Amazon for my '14. Filter/screen was identical. The gasket was pretty much the same with just subtle differences. Fit was perfect and no leaks.

$20 PG Automatic Transmission Filter PT9931 | Fits 2023-03 Toyota 4Runner, 2016-05 Tacoma, 2014-05 Tundra, 2014-07 FJ Cruiser, 2008-05 Sequoia, 2007-03 Land Cruiser, 2009-03 Lexus GX470, 2007-03 LX470

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Tr...OPPj&pd_rd_i=B07M6WH9JR&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_5_sc

 

You wouldn’t be the first to use a TQ wrench and strip the bolt.
I am guessing the spec is for Non-lubricated threads?
Add oil to threads and you are over torqued?

I go hand tight on the all the drain plugs and call it good.