ND4's Fog Light Anytime Mod... NO splicing, No Bending, 100% reversible

Yup that would be the one, Pull it and take a pic of the socket.

 

ok. So using your original scheme, simply run the brown/bent tab lead to that narrow portion of the channel, replace relay and boom. And this will be switchable power, off with the key out?

Simple enough.

So what purpose exactly does the batt charge relay serve. (prepared to feel really stupid when you answer this...)

 

"Charges" your camper/trailer battery while in tow and connected.
Leave the relay removed, since you don't use it. And place a male spade terminal in #2.
If you decide to keep the relay in its position, then (I suggest) use a 20 awg wire without a terminal, just the stripped wire flared out and the same length of the terminal.

 

Thanks for the support sir! that makes things easy.

Correct yes. You will run the "brown" wire in the OP to pin 2 of that socket and replace the relay (be careful when inserting as there will be 2x the things in that pin now) or like stated you can leave the relay removed if you dont have a trailer that needs that charging function.

That relay is responsible for 12v charging to the 7 pin for trailers that utilize it. It connects the charging system of the truck to the trailer so the batteries can be changed on the trailer.

 

@nd4spdbh & @caribe makaira, I spend a lot of money in a manufacturing/operations context and don't ever get this level of customer service.



I'll get my jumpers together this afternoon and knock this out.

I do pull trailers, but typically only running lights.

That will change if my girlfriend gets her way, so I'll make the effort to replace the relay.



I'll let you know how it goes.

 

can I do this with my horn relay?

 

No. Horn is always hot

 

You could probably run the wire down through the main fuse box's open ports, then up through the secondary ones open ports to keep things clean (rather than running across the top of everything then out / in through the lids)

 

I understand(already have posts a few pages up trying to use a blade)... I’m not afraid of leaving the lights on.

 

If someone wanted to have fog lights available without the key on, and not risk leaving them on intentionally, they could get really creative and have the fog switch connected to the key in switch with diodes in circuit. That way when you open the door, the dinger will ding with either the key in the ignition or the fog lights on. It would also prevent you from locking the doors with the door open if the fog lights are on.

 

if thats the case then

 

I forgot to post after the initial conversation that my horn relay actually just vibrated out the relay still works horn still works now that I pushed it back in after I took the blade connector out of it

 

Now there is some outside of the box thinking. Id bet though that sense circuit is simply seeing a ground. you could potentially do some trickery with the fog switch in the dash... but realistically its way easier n smarter to just have it turn off with the keyed off

 

Yes, the key in switch completes the circuit to ground. The OEM fog switch also completes the circuit to ground. You would just need a couple diodes to isolate them. For those people wanting fog lights for setting up camp, this would alert them if they left the fogs on in the daytime.

 

You could also do it where the ground for the fog switch is provided by the key in switch. That way the fogs would work anytime the key is in the ignition. Diodes would be necessary for this also.

Edit: That might not work. I’m not sure if the key in switch remains closed when the key is turned to on.

 

This isn’t right. With this wiring, turning on the fog lights will tell the combination meter that the door is open.