For Stock Rigs Only

Look like my birthday is right after yours, 12/25.

 

Good morning everyone!

 

No sir.

 

On Edit.

Racing is very heavy in my blood.

I curb the addiction by working on them.

if I was to get in another race car in competition,I would get hooked again
and I would End up using all my retirement money.

I’m blessed to work on these exotic cars and Bob to trust me. I have his life in my hands
And at 185 mph I can’t make mistakes.

 

If something happens to any of the cars in the collection on the track. What kind of loss would it be?

Some pretty rare cars in the collection.

 

Some. Millions.

What good is it if it just sits.

 

Good morning Billy Bob!

 

That not going to go over well.

The enjoyment of looking at them sitting there collecting dust.

 

So it's a natural finish (no stain). That's good. I'd just lightly sand until all the loose material is gone and the surface is smooth. Start with 120 and finish with 180 grit. Doesn't need to be so smooth that 220 is needed. Use a good tack cloth to get them really clean before applying the poly. I like the water based polys due to the fact that they don't yellow over time. I'd think a good satin finish would be good. At least 2 coats with light sanding between coats. Directions are on the cans.

Or if You have the space, you could use spray poly.

 

You answered my other questions without asking.

The wear areas I can see natural wood. The other areas look yellow(ish).

Does all sanding have to be done by hand to get the best results?

Do I sand and refinish the edges or just the top?

After the 2 coats of poly completely dry do I sand to refine the final layer?

 

By hand or an orbital sander...either. If by hand use a sanding block (or scrap piece of wood to maintain a flat surface) on the main part of the tray. If the edges are rounded over, you should do by hand without block. I'd probably just hit the top of the rounded edge. Always in direction of grain. If you sand between coats, the final finish won't require any sanding.

if there's a big difference in color between the natural wood and the yellowish areas....might be worth just sanding right down to the wood. Or blend until the differnces are subtle.

 

@FlyingWolfe

I may have missed it - did you get the house wrapped up?

 

Oldie but goodie

 

Is poly self leveling?

The top edges are routed. So, do I give it a quick scuff then repoly?

I'll have my sister take a picture when she here tomorrow.

 

If it's windy enough you can stay up in the 'lift band' on the ridge of a mountain but it gets boring after awhile just going back and forth and dodging a dozen other wings in the air, otherwise- you don't stay up.. If there's not enough lift to overcome the gliders sink rate we have a "sled ride" and land.
I have an app called "XC Skies" that gives updraft velocity, XC potential, buoyancy shear ratios, top of lift altitude, direction, drift, blah blah.. we can usually narrow down the best time to launch to the minute in order to stay up (or to not bother flying at all if there's no lift).

 

Yes, just apply light coats according to the directions. I wouldn't sans the entire edge, just the top rounded part. When you apply the poly, also go in direction of the grain. Don't start at the edge as you'll get drips. Start on the board and move toward the edge feathering it off as you come off that edge. This is of course if you use a brush.

If spraying, just lay it on the floor ground with some newspaper underneath and spray on light coats.

 

What about this poly?

$23 1 qt Minwax 63333 Clear Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Finish Satin

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-63333...YTVC9BXMNCC&psc=1&refRID=P8BAHC83XYTVC9BXMNCC

 

Must feel like this sometimes!

 

Yup

 

Truth!