2nd gen manual transmission fix

Man that sucks so hard .

 

did they send you a new unit or just a new seal the other times?

 

I dont intend to take advantage of this your repeated misfortune; after removing the trans 3x now, I feel you could make an excellent write up on how remove, reinstall etc...

 

Well, that really stinks. Be interested to hear what they say.

I ended up returning my CM hydraulic TOB before installing it. It definitely sounds like the experience has been mixed. Took a hit on return shipping and restocking but, I just didn't want to take the chance, and dropping the transmission is a bit more of a job than I'm willing to go after - so any return would mean going back to the shop. Sparing the time to get the job done once is hard enough.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

 

LOL. I guess you’re right.

I am typically tying up somebody’s lift when I’m doing stuff like this. So, being in a hurry to get out of their way kind of prevents me from stopping for pictures and such. I’ll do what I can from memory I suppose. I did actually buy a few tools just to make the job easier the next time I had to do it. Particularly a 36” impact extension for getting at the top two engine-trans bolts and a set of swivel impact sockets for the rest of them. Gawd forbid that I have to spin a bolt by hand! Ugh!

Here we go:

Disconnect negative terminal of the battery.

Pull the shift knob and yank the center console out. Then unbolt and remove the shifter from the top of the trans. Store it outside of the truck. It stinks.

Get it in the air and drop the Y-pipe and the rear drive shaft. I like to mark the flanges on the shafts with a sharpie so that they go back together the same way. Same with the carrier bearing. Unbolt the front drive shaft from the diff and just let it be for now.

Get your tranny jack underneath and run it up till it’s just supporting things. Now, spin the nuts off of the long bolts that attach the xmember to the frame. Lift the trans just a hair so that you can slide those long bolts out completely. Now, slowly lower the trans until it is basically hanging down by itself. You want as much room as possible to access all the wiring and such on the top of the trans. Get busy disconnecting everything and unclipping that harness. A pick tool and/or a pocket prybar are nice to have here. I usually will pull the whole harness forward and hang it over the RH exhaust flange to keep it out of the way.

Once the trans is completely disconnected and ready to be removed, you can move on. Slave cyl and such needs un-bolting too. I’m doing this from memory, so, I may forget to mention some simple stuff that should kind of go without saying. If you’re attempting this and have the tools, odds are that you have an idea about what you’re doing.

While the trans is still hanging, get out yer big ass long extension and spin out those top two trans to engine bolts. One has a bracket that holds a breather hose. Make a note of how that goes together. Also, zip out the four 12’s that hold the rear trans mount to the trans and set that xmember aside. This will make reassembly a bit easier.

Our tranny jacks use straps to hold the trans. Now is the time to throw those over and get it all strapped up. Lift the trans back up to its home position and continue zipping out all of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. The starter will pretty much stay put. No worries there. Just make sure you note which of the bolts are the ones for that. I just put an “s” on the head of the bolt with my sharpie.

Once everything is unbolted, you should be able to wiggle the the trans backwards enough for the input shaft to clear the pressure plate fingers. You don’t want to mess around with changing the angle of things here. That’ll make re-mating these things a big PITA. Slide it back then drop it straight down and out of the way.

Do what you’re gonna do. Then, when you’re ready to put it back in, it’s pretty much the reverse of how you took it apart.

Jack it up and align it as best you can. Get it stabbed (an assistant to manage the front drive shaft is helpful here) then, snug up all of the accessible lower bolts. You’ll want to push the starter up into position to assist with getting those two bolts started. Do those after the other bolts are in and snug. Lower the trans again and let it hang. Put the top two bolts in and tighten. Lay your harness back over and get to clipping and connecting. Jack it up again and final tighten the rest of the bolts. Now is when you want to bolt that xmember back in too. Now, remove tranny jack and put the rest back together.

 

Wow....I was being partially sarcastic, but this is so generous of you, thank you good sir. Saving this script for the future!

 

I’ll come back and clean it up and add any tips after I finish doing it again here soon. I’m sure I left some stuff out.

 

I’d ditch this sucker too but I cut my quill off when I was running the urd hydrobearing so my options are limited. My clutchmasters TOB has a ever so slight leak and the pedal feel is all over the place

 

An incredibly bad design as far as I am concerned .
I understand that the transmission was beefed up to counter act the missing pilot bearing . After very carefull consideration , I think Toyota needs to do more to compensate for this switch .
When you mash your clutch pedal to the floor , your clutch disc is supported by the input shaft . A rotating clutch disc thats spinning at 3000 rpm creates a lot of load even if it only weighs 4 pounds . In days gone by when you mashed your clutch pedal to the floor , The pilot bearing use to support the clutch disc . Now , when you mash your clutch pedal to the floor , you rely on the transmission input shaft to support the load of that spinning clutch disc
In my opinion , its one of the main reasons you cant keep a throwout bearing alive in the Tacoma .Not the top reason but 1 of the reasons .
Considering nobody has throwout bearing issues with the 5 speed manual which uses a pilot bushing , I may have a valid point
With the above mentioned , is there room to install a pilot bearing or is the input shaft too short to extend into the back of the crankshaft ? also , is there a snub on the input shaft that would except a pilot bearing ? sorry been a while since I did a clutch on the 6 speed manual.
Somebody show me some side views of the input shaft please
I spend some time thinking before I post this stuff .

 

The transmission wasn't "beefed up" to counter a missing pilot bearing, the pilot bearing is added to transmissions that don't have fully-supported input shafts without one. There are plenty of transmissions that don't use pilot bearings, pilot bearings exist for a specific purpose that doesn't exist on the RA6x or RC6x transmissions. Fully supported input shafts rarely/never have pilot bearings, but they're not as often used in longitudinal transmissions due to the more common input reduction design, however on non-concentric design like transverse transmissions or with output reduction on a concentric design (like the RA and RC) the input shaft is fully supported. None of Toyota's transmissions with fully supported input shafts have pilot bearings, this includes all of their transverse/FWD transmissions and the RA/RC longitudinal transmissions.

The input shaft does not extend far enough to get near a pilot bearing installed in the crankshaft. There is no snub on the input shaft.

In my opinion, the throwout bearing issues with the RA60/61 are mostly related to two things, the force applied to the release bearing when the clutch pedal is released and the material that the release bearing hub slides on.

The applied force relates mostly to noise issues and arose not from the transmission design but rather from the clutch design and supplier issues. LuK and Aisin didn't build their pressure plates to the same finger height, and so the release bearings needed to be different heights as well. Additionally, the slave cylinder spring force was adjusted.

The material issue is that the release bearing hub slides on an aluminum quill. The 5-speed has a steel quill.

The RC60-series has moved back to a steel quill and only uses Aisin clutches.

Jeff

 

I agree about the pedal feel being “all over the place”. That’s exactly how I’d describe the way mine feels.

That “slight” leak will get worse. Mine was “slight” mid October. Now there’s drips under the truck each night. I’m parking in the gravel on the side of the house now and filling the reservoir regularly.

Still no response from Clutchmasters from my email I sent to them Friday.

Anyway, for you, I suggest a new bell housing and go back to a stock-ish setup with the quill sleeve and bearing from PDM. Not cheap. I know.

 

Another member and I have swapped a couple of emails about removing the transfer case separately to help lighten things up. The Tcase alone weighs in around 120 lbs. IIRC. Anyway, he indicated that was his preferred method. Had you considered that? I have only done this job once but pulled the transmission and transfer together and remember just how heavy they are. I even own a beefy dedicated transmission jack but if things could be made lighter....

 

Every time I think I find another “fix” for the shitty throw out bearing I get all excited, then I look deeper and realize people are having issues with the “fix”. The URD kit seems to have same issues as stock, adjusting the pedal isn’t a permentant fix, and now this hydro bearing seems to have its own fair share of problems. It’s annoying that there still seems to be NO FIX for this terrible design.

 

No shit!

 

In my opinion, the best bet at solving the "problem" is to do one of a couple of things,

1. Use a concentric slave cylinder like CM is doing, but use one that is of higher quality.
2. Use the factory setup with the correct height release bearing, correct height pressure plate, updated slave cylinder spring, not worn-out parts, and a smooth and straight quill/tube.

Option 1 can work, but I would look at using some sort of OE-type concentric bearing. Finding one that can fit over the stock quill may or may not be difficult, I haven't looked into it.

Option 2 makes sense, but if the quill is damaged, how to replace it. I've seen some attempts at sleeving it like URD/TransQuil did, but in my opinion a better way to go is to not use a modified stock release bearing, but rather one that has a larger ID. Additionally, in my opinion, I am not a big fan of the use of set screws to hold it in place. On the one hand I understand why they did it, but on the other, it's a lot of point-force to put on the aluminum quill. Trying to have an interference fit would be a better option, but when the original quill is damaged it could make that very difficult to install without machining.

If I was to attempt to solve this problem for myself, it would involve a steel quill that either replaces the aluminum completely (which can be a bit difficult to do nicely for someone at home), or to install a sleeve while leaving the aluminum in place. In either case I would have the new steel quill mounted on its own support plate that bolts onto the transmission.



Jeff

 

I've been thinking along the same lines. Somebody needs to do this

 

Since we are flinging out fixes , Here is my fix . I already know it will work . I just need a truck with a 6 speed to fab it up .Using the factory Aisn or Luk clutch and the upgraded factory slave with upgraded factory ball, install a shallow " self centering release bearing " with a" Wide "contact face and a " Grease zerk " with quality seals to prevent contamination . sorry picture doesnt show the grease zerk or the remote grease line .Self centering bearings compensate for out of round . Your factory bearing has a narrow contact face so I may have to compensate with heavier hydraulic assist . Accumulator delete is a must . you guys dont need a cushion .The factory bearing is not self centering and its open meaning all kinds of crap can get in it .
This bearing will Not be pro-loaded against the pressure plate fingers " period " . Going to be old school set at 3/8" air gap . Go ahead and shock load the shit out of it . No more wore out quill .No more bearing pushing through the pressure plate off center and no more squealing release bearing and no more driving around with a clutch thats partially applied . I am not re-inventing the wheel here . This set up worked for well over 100 years . Let,s see what the critics think lol



Remove the factory master cylinder pushrod from under the dash and install the larger adjustment rod . I will also place a return spring on the slave as well as a threaded step to maintain release bearing gap .

Upgraded slave cylinder
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...year=2010&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()



This is going to be the remote grease tube that connects to the release bearing .You can lubricate your clutch release bearing at the same time you grease your universal joints using the same grease .

Upgraded factory ball
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~support~release~for~31236-35050.html


Release bearing return spring

 

Where are you at up north? When your country finally will let my people back in, you can borrow my truck (well, maybe).

Edit-you're wayyy over there and Google says that you're in the middle of a lake.

 

Yes , I am Way up North . There are ways to get you here even with the dreaded pandemic . If you are interested in making this happen , I will let you be the ginuea pig lol
There is one downfall to making this clutch completely adjustable . You will have to make occasional adjustments to maintain 3/8 release bearing gap . As the clutch disc wears in , the fingers on the pressure plate move closer to the release bearing.
If you dont make yearly adjustments per say , you will end up with the same garbage you have now .
Due to lack of adjustment clearance with the factory junk , its difficult to set the air gap adjustment on the release bearing and maintain it . The factory bearing is far too long to make it function with air gap properly . This is a cheap work around that will eliminate all the issues with the Tacoma clutch in the RA60

To make the clutch masters hydraulic slave function properly , you will need to place two large return springs on the slave cylinder bearing support and mount the springs to the transmission case . This will aid in moving the release bearing away from the fingers of the pressure plate .
With this being said , a larger master cylinder may be required to accomodate the larger release bearing face and the opposing return spring set

 

How are you going to achieve an air gap between the bearing and pressure plate fingers?