*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

It had a great independent review here.

 

Other than masking, your only real option is to use a foam applicator with a sharp edge. This should allow you to apply the dressing reasonably accurately. The problem with applying dressings in general is that you virtually always miss something while getting it on something else you didn't mean to. That's why a ceramic coating is a much more elegant solution.

 

Thanks for the response ill be on the look out for a foam applicator with an edge. I've never seen or liked for one but makes sense.

 

Definitely apply after a wash, most products are still curing for a while after application and should not only remain dry but shouldn't be hit with any cleaners. It's just as simple as being more careful by taking your time or apply as usual and spend more time chasing after it wiped onto a surface you didn't want it to.

It's like Solution Finish for using on trim, it's pretty much a dye and you're going to get it on the paint and other places when applying to plastic and trim. The trick is to pay attention (detail) and wipe it off before it dries.

I agree with the others though, apply a trim coating or something more long term and stay on top of it. The trim and plastics are going to fade and get ugly far quicker than the paint will and outside of the aforementioned Solution Finish you don't have many options of revitalizing the trim like you do with the paint.

 

Gotcha thanks for the info. Posting another question below just to break up the thread

 

So I have mold i think starting to grow on my rubber part on the bottom of window (outside). I have to keep truck outside and sometimes underneath trees but always get leaves and stuff off on a daily basis using my hand and leaf blower. Also wash truck frequently. I can't seem to get it off. I'll have to put up a picture in daylight

I really do try to take care of my 2015 since its 20 years newer than my past 3 vehicles.

Any suggestions? I'll post pictures tomorrow

 

I would do a site search for this at autogeek and autopia. Use google to search these sites like this: "trim mold site:www.autogeekonline.net" or "trim mold site:www.autopia.org"

Give some of the non detailing specific products a go before ordering anything as there's likely not a specific detailing product for this. Though ultimately you may be stuck using a trim restoration product to apply over and mask it. A lot of times what you're seeing is not mold, rather its the trim degrading in the sun and other elements. If it is mold or some other organic then it's likely deep in there and will need to be killed off somehow before cleaning it up and/or using a trim restoration. Kind of like bleach it doesn't really kill it off and it just grows back. Not to mention using bleach on something that you're trying to keep dark.

This is one of those YMMV subjects.

 

Gotcha, thanks for the info. My truck is a 2015 and my 1995 tacoma rubber looks about the same. I know things aren't made like they used to be but damn. I'll post a picture tomorrow in the daylight. Hopefully that will help you help me better. It probably is degradation but only on driver side I think.
Thanks again

 

So just ordered GTechnic. Been using opti seal for paint so may as well use treat trim with some quality coating as well .

 

Well shoot. I didn't know this thread existed (despite my best efforts searching "detail" lol) took me searching Gtechniq to find it.

Here's my problem. This panel is clean, the "dirt" you see is essentially etched clearcoat from dirt/dings. You can wet it and it looks better (until it dries to this).

The dings/chips aren't my concern. I'd like to restore it so it doesn't look constantly dull/dirty.

It was professionally detailed and they said there wasn't anything they could do to it (besides maybe taking it to an auto body shop and "wiping" paint on it???). After some chats around the forum, I was told I could try cleaner wax (still might?). Then I was looking into Gtechniq C1 as a possibility to restore some "gloss".

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!

 

Wiping paint on it may refer to a technique of getting paint into the rock chips. The brand Dr. Colorchip demonstrates this method for getting the paint into a chip by dropping a dab of paint beside the ding and you smear it into the chip.

If the detailer did have some experience and they didn't touch it with a polish or compound I doubt a cleaner wax would help much. Cleaner waxes usually have minimal abrasives (comparable to a finer polish) that help clear up minor scratches while working it by machine or hand ultimately laying down a layer of wax or sealant. A newer name for this type of product is an "all in one". If you're going to do a coating such as Gtechniq you'll want to apply that to the cleanest barest paint you can, not paint that's been waxed already as it will make it harder for the coating to bond.

Now if the detailer was inexperienced and for some reason doesn't have a polisher or doesn't use abrasives then have someone take another look. Are you anywhere near Boise? Look into The Rag Company as they should be able to help with suggestions and if you're dead set on Gtechniq they're a distributor for them. I'm not that familiar with the Gtechniq lineup which is certainly a reputable coating brand, they may have a better suggestion on which of their coatings or maybe a spray to use for your issue.

 

Thank you for all the information!

I do have a request into The Rag Company to see if they can help me out, I am close enough to go in as well if need be so they can lay eyes on it.

 

I detail vehicles for a living at a Toyota dealership, so I've seen more than a few Tacomas with exactly the issue you have. The worst ones are the ones without mud guards and / or tube steps or running boards because either of those helps minimize kicked up stones from hitting your lower door panels and rockers. You might also notice that the lower 8" or so of that area has a "textured" look to it. That's because the paint there has a chip guard layer to help minimize exactly the condition you have.

So what's happening is stones get kicked up by the front tires and impact against the paint causing chips. It's important to understand this because whatever you do to "fix" the current problem will be pretty much a waste of time unless you do something to prevent the damage in the future. Like I mentioned above, prevention is the key. I installed OEM running boards on my truck when it was new. This picture was taken when the truck had just over 100,000 miles on it and there's not a single chip in that area.



As for what you can do, I can tell you for certain - based on personal experience at work - that cleaner wax won't do anything. In fact polishing / buffing will also have almost no effect. The paint in that area is thick due to the chip guard and when you chip it, it's a very deep chip. Basically, without repainting it, you're stuck with an unsightly mess.

The is some hope though. Many higher quality ceramic coatings - not the spray on crap from Walmart - do have some limited filling ability. Several layers of one of these coatings applied by somebody who knows what they're doing will minimize the chips somewhat. But as I mentioned above, if you don't do something to prevent future damage ...

 

Thank you!

It is a lease vehicle with 65k miles on it (that I just purchased 2 weeks ago). Unfortunately, whoever leased it didn't have mudflaps and well.. here I am trying to fix it.

Mud flaps are on my list (not a huge fan of running boards, but maybe in the future!)

The major chips aren't my main concern, but returning the finish to a wet look rather than the dull dirty look it currently has. If I could find a "spot" treatment that would be ideal, as I'd like to not have to ceramic coat the whole truck.

Here's the rear fender flares which are on my list of things to either vinyl wrap (temporarily) or replace.

 

Wow, that's going to require paint - even if you want to wrap it. That's because the surface is too rough to wrap.

Congrats on the new truck though!

 

Yeah I don't have much experience with wrapping so I wasn't sure if that was doable.
Are the OEM flares pretty easy to remove & reinstall? Maybe I will plasti-dip them for the time being. Anything is better than the hideous rock damage.

Thanks! Fortunately/Unfortunately? That's the only issues with it. Everything else is pretty clean. Plus, I don't have to be the one to put the first scratch in it.. lol

 

To tell you the truth, I'm not sure how hard they are to remove, but I doubt it's too difficult. Good luck!

 

Yikes, I have never seen paint that trashed with chips. I would assume those flares are like 2nd gen and kept on with plastic clips. Given the condition of the rest of the truck minus the lower door portion, I would buy new flares. You could probably find them online already painted to match your truck.

If you don't like running boards. I would suggest some rock sliders. I put a set on my Tacoma from SOS Offroad Concepts (they were a vendor here). A little spendy but protect the truck well. I went with the filler plates too. There are plenty of vendors on Tacoma World that offer them with various options.

 

I actually don't like the color matched flares and am hoping to get black ones. Thankfully that's probably easier than finding paint matched.

It is super unfortunate how trashed the paint is, it was actually at a dealer 300 miles away and the damage wasn't disclosed to me before making the 5 hour trek to buy it. It is what it is!

I'll look into sliders, that's actually a good idea.

 

Maybe look into using rattle can bedliner for flares for now since you want it black. Should hide those chips. Search on here . Theres people who bedlined theres .