Old Man Emu setups on 1st gens

I tried installing the same kit. Couldn’t get the front shocks on, have to take it to a shop I think. Let me know how it goes

 

Ya ill let you kno.. I'm planning on doing it in my garage

 

I got OME 882s and nitro charger fronts, Dakar leafs w AAL, and rear shocks. For the front, I had two grown men cranking on the control arms. We had it lined up but didn’t get the bolt through in time. It was very strenuous. I’m doing the rear stuff tomorrow. Send me pics of your fronts and how you did it. I’m stock like you, going to upgrade to 33s

 

Just unbolt the LCA and drop it down you should be able to get the shock in no problem.

 

Tried to find a YouTube video on that, couldn’t find it. Could you walk me through it so I don’t have to take it to a shop?

 

watch this: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IOW-FRDl5wg

 

If you insist to lift the front without waiting for the rear leafs to settle.

 

I saw this it’s for a third gen

I have this on the drivers side. What’s it for?

 

It just preloads your spring by barely raising the spring seat, some guys us it to remedy Taco lean.

 

is drivers side all I need? They said it’s recommended to combat drivers side lean. Not sure what it all means. But I have one on my drivers front shock.

gonna try to do the rears and fronts again today

 

Did you try disconnecting the sway bar from both sides completely? I did this and then had a buddy stand (or rather jump up and down) on the rotor which pushed the lca into alignment with the lower shock hole. It was a real pita and took alot of finangling. This video just reminded me that I didn't put any thread loc on the bolts also.

 

I did not, not sure how to access the sway bar. My truck is a first gen, the truck in the video is third

 

Just look at your truck.

No instruction needed.

I posted a reply to this in another thread.

You just need to follow some of the advice that's so often given to you.

 

I did my 1st gen about a month ago and disconnected the sway bar. Which gen doesn't matter really. Sway bars link the lcas together in such a way that minimizes allowable movement. Once you disconnect the sway bar you'll see how much more movement you'll get. I still needed a buddy to hop on the rotor though. The proper way to do this is probably to disconnect the lbj also but I like to do things the hard way.

What I think is very important is to tighten everything down with the vehicle back on the ground. You won't even be able to get the sway bar reconnected unless the vehicle is on the ground anyway. This is because the weight of the vehicle will lift the lca back into position to reconnect it.

 

I've attached some images of the sway bar link if your not sure about what to disconnect. Its a thick (about 3/4") solid bar with a flattened end with a hole in it. The bolt that goes through that hole is the link.

Below the bushings you'll notice that there are some flat sides on the link. Put a wrench on that sucker and hold it on place while you take the nut off the top. Otherwise you'll be Appling torque on the baby joint at the bottom of the link and that's no good.

 

Better yet, the bolt that has the allen-keyed hole in it.

10 seconds to zip both sides off as mentioned.

 

Which bolt am I aiming for?


Here's a pic of ball joint to steering knuckle. Which bolts am I dissasembling, two closest to the car or all four? I tried undoing the cotter pin/nut but the knuckle didn't budge. Seems like sway bar disconnect would be easier

EDIT: Looks like I found a video here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaQCb894F_M

 

It's up to you, I seen some guys put it on both sides. With new overhaul susppension I doubt you will notice any lean. you can always do a center hub to fender measurement if you think you need to double up on the driver side. One 5mm ring should net you 10mm of additional lift. I only have one on my driver side and it still higher than my passenger side without me in it.

 

My last piece of advice in order to help prevent you from doing 10 times more work than is required.

DO NOT undo your lower ball joint bolts that connect to your spindle.

This is a completely unnecessary procedure at all for simply installing coilovers.

Stated in two different threads, not to mention shown in the picture posted by another member, simply undo the bolt that has an allen keyed hole. This is the sway bar end link, and undoing it will relieve tension on your suspension.

This should allow the necessary droop needed to install your coilover.

If all else fails, including the bottle jack method, simply loosen your cam bolts on your lower control arm.

You are proposing to do more work than required.

/end

 

Ok I’m gonna undo this Allen-key hole bolt and it will give me the further travel I need in the LCA