Eibach pro lift kit

Looks great with the matching coils.

 

Has anyone used axle shims with their lifts?

 

Aren't they supposed to go under the truck?

 

I finally completed my install over Thanksgiving. Here is my very long post to dump my experience into!

Eibach Stage 1 pre-assembled on the first spring perch, 1/4" drivers side spacer, OEM UCAs, ICON 1.5" AAL (overload removed), ECGS Bushing, stock weight, 32" tires, no diff drop, no carrier bearing drop, no new axle shims. Thank you @HeadStrong Off-Road for the help along the way - I highly recommend them.

The installation was pretty straight forword. I watched a lot of videos to prepare, hit my bolts with lots of penetrating oil for months prior to install, and took my time! Something I did different than the videos was that I did not unbolt my tie rod or UCA castle nuts. I unbolted and installed the sway bar relocation brackets first, then swung it up out of the way. I unbolted the lower ball joint mounting bolts, released the CV axle from the hub, and moved the whole assembly up and forword with a jack stand to rest it on. I had to do this for the front left for the ECGS bushing install and it worked great to get the old strut out, install the bushing, then install the new strut so I did the same on the right. Surprisingly, I was able to remove all my bolts pretty easily up front - I thought I was going to have to cut the strut top nuts off.





The ECGS bushing installed well, but it does take patience to align it and then tap it in. I installed it with the strut removed which gave me some clearance inside the LCA to short swing a 2lb hammer against the bearing press tool (should be able to loan one from an auto parts store). Removal of the needle bearing was very easy with the ECGS tool - I used a steal wire with a loop to hold the removal flange while slipping it into the diff and getting it into position. I did not stuff any plastic or anything inside, the wire held it well, positioned it, and then I pulled the wire out.



The rear was relatively easy as well. Watch the videos, clamp the leafs together very well, and use 2 jacks under the axle to manipulate it. My U-bolts unbolted with ease using an impact wrench. However, the left rear shock top bolt was seized so I had to cut it off to get the shock out. Also, my truck had a small axle shim that I re-installed. I forgot to measure it but it seemed like a small 1-2 degree shim. I wanted to install the Headstrong AAL but they have been out of stock for ~6 months so I gave in and ordered the ICON AAL. The downside of the icon is that you have to cut/grind off one of the factory spring clips, there is no mounting location/bracket for the parking brake cable (zip tied back for now), and the U-bolts supplied are very long.



My results measured at the centerline of the wheel up to the fender flare edge:
LF: +1-7/8"
LR: +1-1/2"
RF: +1-1/2"
RR: +1-1/8"

Pre-Lift Measurements (~1/2 tank of fuel)
LF: 35-1/2"
LR: 36-1/2"
RF: 36"
RR: 37-1/8"

After 100+ miles and alignment (empty fuel tank)
LF: 37-3/8"
LR: 38"
RF: 37-1/2"
RR: 38-1/4"

I am continuing to track the measurements out of curiosity since I did see a lot of variation initially. I may report back if people want to see what I have.

Before Picture (a slight up hill):


After Picture (a slight up hill):


Alignment:



Things I learned:

1. I wanted 2". Based on my experience with a DCOR 4x4, you are not likely to get a full 2" up front.
2. You could pre-plan to do a 1/2" drivers spacer (need longer studs on top mount) with a 1/4" passenger spacer to get that extra 1/2" without going second perch which could be too much. I estimate (just my opinion) that moving up a perch could get you 3/4" to 1" which will be too much for stock UCAs. And probably end up nose high if not installing a new leaf pack with 2" of lift.
3. A 3/8" drivers spacer might be a better option; but Taco Lean is more evident in the front with an empty tank and levels out/inverses with a full tank. I am considering doing 3/8" drivers and have or make a 1/8" spacer for the passenger side.
4. Corrosion...I had a very foggy day with a lot of condensation 1 week after install. Shocks, shock top bolts, washers, and nuts all have some corrosion where the dew settled out. I had considered pre-treating everything and should have. I am going to go back, clean it up a little and coat the hardware with fluid film.
5. The lift seemed to accentuate my tire noise/hum/subtle vibration at 25-35mph up front (my tires have ~5k, are rotated, and balanced). I lowered my tire pressure to experiment and it greatly improved it. I will continue to mess around with pressures to get good tire wear and be sure its not something else up front. That said, my truck (and others on here) seem to have some minor noise/vibration that Toyota sort of acknowledges. I am not going to overthink it bc it was like that when I got it last year.
6. As far as I can tell, I have no driveshaft vibrations. I will measure my angles at some point soon, but I think I am good.
7. The alignment seems good for the lift height - does not feel loose pr wander. Time will tell.
8. The ride is definitely stiffer then stock - as everyone says, less nose dive on breaking, less sway. Drives well on the road and I don't find it uncomfortable, but I am curious how it will do off road being so stiff. I plan to do mild to moderate trails; not likely to do extreme stuff.
9. As I add armor, starting with RCI Sliders this winter, I am curious how much it will sag up front. Future problem...

Congrats if you managed to read all the way through. I literally read every single page of this thread (~150 pages before I ordered my kit and every page after!) and appreciated every post that had details. So, I hope this helps someone out there!

 

Thanks for the post! Your truck looks great. My kit came in yesterday and was able to get my coilovers installed. Biggest issue I had was getting the stupid LCA bolts back in. Took me probably 20 minutes each side, which was about a quarter of my install time haha.

Drove around the block and the bro lean felt a little weird, haha. The biggest thing I noticed was no more brake drive! It was great.

I have the ECGS, but did not install it because Autozone doesnt have any of the big loaner torque wrenches available and I forgot to get tie rod pullers and the bearing race and seal driver. Oh well, I'll get it done when/if there's vibes.

Doing the Wheeler's 3leaf AAL (basically the same thing as your Icon) today. Hoping my install goes smooth like yours.

 

Thanks! I am sure you will be fine doing the rear as long as you have a grinder!

I wanted to get the ECGS done at the same time and eliminate any issue now. Not too many holiday weeks that I can disable my truck to get some work done!

 

Good call on the grinder! Ill need to run out and grab a new wheel before I grt started. I certainly wanted to knock it all out at once as well just for simplicity. Luckily Im working from home and can use the wifes car if my truck has sit for a while.

Thanks again for the pics and write up! Ive watched a ton or videos but sometimes the static images helps a whole lot more.

 

My review of the lift kit:

The kit went on my 2020 TRD Sport DCLB. I installed the kit at the lowest setting along with HS 1/4" front driver side spacer, ECGS bushing, JBA UCA's, Archive Garage Hammer Hangers, 1.3125" rear lift blocks, and carrier bearing drop kit, 17x8 zero offset 2020 TRD Pro replica wheels, and 285/70R17 P-rated Falken Wildpeaks.

I simply could not be more happy with how it turned out. I love the new look and the ride quality is BETTER than stock. I installed the rear shocks first and drove with them for awhile as I awaited other parts. The Eibach rear shocks alone are indistinguishable in ride quality to the stock TRD sport shocks. The rest of the kit and other parts were installed at the same time a few weeks later. In terms of stiffness, I find the ride very similar to the stock TRD sport - very little body lean, very little nose dive while breaking, and no bounciness. If you have an off-road model, I imagine that you will find the ride slightly stiffer than stock but, since it is very similar to the sport, not obnoxiously so. As far as differences from stock, the truck does feel more planted on the road - I assume because of the larger tires. Also, I no longer feel every single expansion joint and minor bump in the back which the TRD sports are unfortunately notorious for. I assume this was largely because I installed the Hammer Hangers with my lift. Finally, the larger tires have almost no additional road noise. To put the road noise in perspective, on a scale of 1-10 (1 being quiet and 10 being a very loud tires), I would say stock is a 1 and the Wildpeaks are a 1.5.

I need to give a shout out to Marie and Robert at @HeadStrong Off-Road. Marie answered a dozen or more emails from me over several weeks as I was trying to decide all of the details of my build. The last question I struggled with was my lift in the rear. After being unable to decide on a route, I called Headstrong and reached Robert. I explained to him that I only wanted a 2" lift and wanted to maintain a slight rake but was having a difficult time deciding on the rear lift. I was concerned that a new spring pack would give me too much lift and might be more stiff than I wanted. I was also concerned about over stiffening the ride quality and possible squeaking from using an AAL. Like Marie, he was very patient with me and my noob-like questions. Cost was not a huge factor for me and I was prepared to spend what I needed to do for ride quality and a relatively maintenance free solution. I explained I will off-road very seldom and, when I do, it would be pretty mild. I told him that a stock-like or better ride quality was paramount. Both Marie and Robert explained that "ride quality" is subjective but I told him that I wanted my suspension to absorb bumps on the road without being too "bouncy" from an overly soft suspension. Robert suggested that I consider a mild block lift. Since I had done a ton of research on here and had read all of the opinions bashing block lifts, I was initially skeptical but Robert explained that the criticisms on here about block lifts are overblown when it came to a mild lift and my intended use. While this was certainly the least expensive option, it was also the best option for me, regardless of cost. I am SO glad that I listened to him. The truck rides like a dream. In fact, I would say this is how it should come from the factory. Because of their very valuable customer service, I bought the lift kit from Headstrong, even though I found it cheaper elsewhere on the web. I gladly paid the difference because I appreciated the help they gave me. If you have done any research on here, you know that Headstrong comes highly recommended. There is a reason for that and I echo the praise.

 

Assembled the front this morning.

 

I just ordered the Eibach kit with the 1” Eiback leaf spacer kit too. Does anyone have pics of their Taco with this setup? If so, what setting did you put front at?

cheers

 

That’s what I got as well, if you don’t have added weight put it on the bottom perch otherwise you will be really nose high.

Where did you find it in stock? I called every place I could on Monday and the only place I found it in stock was at Summit and they only had one left.

 

I ordered it from Eibach, but salesman said they were back ordered u til end of January. I jumped on it; because it was showing as on sale for $505 for main kit+$76 For the rear 1” leaf block and u bolts for total of $585.

I noticed the next day it was back up to normal cost though.

 

I see numerous posts regarding setting their Eibach stage 1 kit front shocks on 1st setting and with one inch spacer in rear. I was on the phone with an Eibach tech today, who told me to use the 2nd notch up on fronts with combo of rear 1” spacer block Will be awesome with a 1/4” rake, and 2 3/4” lift in front. That’s with OE bumper etc..

 

I have Eibach kit, with a 2” spacer in back. Going to put on a Icon AAL 1.5” leaf kit tomorrow I hope. Removing the 2” spacer. The spacers provide lift but they are not adding suspension or improving ride quality. If anything they’re compressing the suspension travel. So I guess it depends on the intended result. Are you looking for appearance, height for clearance, ride quality? I found out that just raising your truck up 2” does NOT mean it rides like a childhood dream. It rides harder with just spacers. So I’m undoing that now.

 

Not sure if the 2020 is any different in stance than 2017, but I suspect you would be too high up front on the second notch with only a 1” block based on my results. I would be about 1/4 - 1/2” nose high on the second notch with the 1-1/4”ish I have in the rear. I would think you would have to do UCAs with that height as well.

Truck would look good though! I wish I had gotten a full 2” up front.

 

That’s what I thought, but opposite of what I was told.

 

I have a 2020 2WD Sport. Eibach kit front/back. Fronts are on lowest setting. Backs had a 2” block already. Now with a half tank gas, the back is 1.25” higher.

 

The alignment shop is asking for specs from the lift. Should they just do factory settings or is there something else I should tell them?

 

No don't do factory #'s. As close to 0 on camber & toe as they can. Depending on your truck & tire size go 2-4 on caster

Here's a sheet someone posted recently that will give them something to work from