Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

I lowered 5/8" on both because I had already accounted for the lean when I itinually set them up (about 1/4") and that seamed to do the trick. My CV boot fins still touch but just barely. I did the ECGS bushing swap when I did my lift.

 

Was there a specific spring compressor you used?

 

I didn't use a spring compressor. I used this method and it worked really well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E6u7dC7EHg

 

@oakcity might be able to help some here.

 

Nice, did you fully remove the top nut or just loosen it?

 

I tried this method and after an hour of trying gave up. The video made it look easy but I just could not get it to cooperate.

 

Eric, how’d you go about making your lowering adjustment?

 

I've read through quite a few pages now and am still wondering, what made you all choose this suspension over any of the others? I see a lot of complaining about squeaking and rust and it makes me wonder what it is that attracts you all to this specific brand.

I understand there is a certain level of noise associated with upgrading your suspension, usually in the form of popping or clunking noises, but squeaking would drive me mad!

I'm not trying to dog on any of you or the product, I'm just generally intrigued as to what it is that has you all fixated with it.

If this question has been asked and I'm missing the answer please just throw me a link or a comment number and I'll go track it down if that is easier.

 

Sorry, I tried that when I initially put mine on. While I didn’t consider lowering it a bit since I installed it, I’ve not done so yet. If I do lower, I would just try lifting the truck up and slowly loosen the rings... even if it’s not recommended... but that’s not to say you should.

 

I spent a lot of time looking at the different lifts, OME, Billies, Eibach, Toytech, Kings & Fox’s. Enough to know I wanted a kit that included fronts, rears and leafs (not an AAL), was adjustable and rebuildable. While Ironman is not a huge name in this world yet they do have a large following with other vehicles.
I read a lot about the other similar prices lifts and saw a lot of the same, leaks, squeaks, etc and decided if I’m spending over 1K I would like something I can rebuild, if it does leak. I don’t have access to nitrogen and the foam set up sounded good in that aspect.
It can be adjusted more so than the Billy’s, I looked at the 6112 set up.

The first Tacoma I had I put a 3” spacer lift and didn’t want that on this truck. I also didn’t have any close friends to push other brands on me. I did a lot of reading and this one checked the most boxes and was in my price range. Even if I saved up enough for Kings or Foxes, I probably would not have spend that kind of money on them.

Maybe this answered your questions, maybe not. So far I enjoy the ride and have no complaints on my kit. One day I’ll take a ride with someone with the other kit and let them ride in mind and see what they think. I have sprayed the leafs with Woolwax but that was part of winterizing, i’d planned on already doing.

 

For me, it was strictly quality vs price vs my use case. They offered a great black friday deal, and are local to me so no shipping cost.

Seems like squeaking is an issue with rear leaf packs that isn't isolated to any one manufacturer so that didn't turn me off.

I'm under no illusions that these are the absolute best at anything, I'm just hoping they work out well for me.

 

I looked over a lot of lifts and saw similar issues with everyone. I was pretty set on going with an ADS kit, but the price was hard to swallow. Then there were guys complaining about rust and a few leaks. For the higher end suspensions, the rebuild was a factor. I was told the rebuild was needed anywhere from 30k-50k and that meant the truck would be out of commission during that time.
The bilstiens have a huge following and were in the same price point, but I was seeing negatives there too. The OME was a good comparison, but they were said to be too firm and clunky.
When I came across Ironman, I saw a company with a long history in the industry, the components are supposed to last longer and if needed can be rebuilt. I haven’t had any squeaks(maybe a small one when I get out of the truck) and maybe there is some rust, but it could also be dried mud that I can’t get fully off. The price was great and the distribution office is an hour from me.
At the end of the day, for what I paid I figured I was getting at least on par with Bilsteins and likely better; plus it wasn’t the same kit 80% of TW was using.
Like others say, it checked a lot of boxes.

 

This reminded me of another reason. They are just plain made beefy, I don’t plan on doing dessert racing so the fancy reservoirs were not needed. These are set up to handle fire roads and slower just as well as bombing it when you want.

 

I couldn’t even use a normal rented spring compressor. The strut housing was too big inside the spring for the compressors fingers to fit.

 

That’s cool. Those are the types of things you’ll hardly ever use but you’ll appreciate it the most when you need too.

I’m waiting till I get 255s on there before I adjust the height. still need to slide the cv boots too.

 

I take the obvious approach and base my research on what applies most to my situations. I’m full-time overland and Ironman in AUS is one of the premier supplier for the rigs out there. We just don’t hear about it as much here because, not to dog other people’s choices, but the broverlanders and mod-shops are always hawking these remote reservoir systems to non rally-racers.

I needed a suspension that lifted and could handle fire roads, washboards, rocky passes and maybe a few sendits now and again. The beefed up 1/8” thick monotube that can withstand punctures and still perform is a life saver when you’re miles out and there’s no chance of a tow back.

With the crossover happening to more and more overlanding, #vanlife etc. I bet you’ll see ironman get some traction here in the US with the expansion of their product line.

Also to note, I know I was on them about their customer service earlier, and I’m all the way 180º on that. I been sending Jenni all over their shop, helping contribute to her mechanics degree.

But yes, the lows I’ve encountered thus far are shiddy powder coat on the leafs. Not much I can compare it to, but its just blasted as they’re assembled. Maybe this is the norm, I don’t know. And haven’t heard a squeak yet, but I’ll put some por-15 protectant on it and just do due diligence.

 

On a personal note, the install has been coming along relatively well for being an amateur wrench turner. Until today, haha. On the passenger side I wanted to take out the tie rod just to swing the new strut in easier and also for removing the sway bar. But I stopped when I saw it wasn’t budging and found another way.

Fast forward to the driver side where I HAD to take out the tie rod to do the ECGS bushing swap and well, I’ll be the day’s biggest bonehead, I boogered up those threads hammering on the castle nut.

Hopefully I can get a die kit on, they’re not terrible but no nut is going on them as is. Worse case is I get a new outer end + castle nut. It did, however, release after I had put some heat on it.

Then I moved on to getting the CV axle out and I just about exhausted myself, haha. I guess I need to take out the lower spindle bolts to allow the rotor to free swing. Musta missed that part in the vids

The UCA’s were rough and tough. Both getting out (ya’ll know that bolt I’m talking bout) and getting back in (very tight fit).

I got super stumped on which needed to go back in first, the strut or the UCA ball joint. Well, to save anyone the headache, I guess the obvious answer is the ball joint because the UCA articulates pretty well once in. However, if the strut is in, that lower arm has zero play up and down. I may or may not have gone down a rabbit hole there.

On the rear, as I mentioned previously, getting the center pin alignment took some finagling, but its simple if you just look at what it needs to do and flex it whichever way you want. Bottle jack on the leafs worked for me on lowering the rear shackle after center pin and front shackle were aligned/in.

I’m gassed out for the day and will come to the ECGS bushing swap tomorrow. The anticipation of smelling that diff fluid is nearly overwhelming me


Edit: New assembly next to old