Wyoming B.S. Thread

Damn! you got one of the first ones! Jealous.

Looks killer! Nice work @SconnieHailer

 

Appreciate the kind words Brett. Thanks for the early support and jumping in when the known outcome was a bit unknown!

Thanks Monte. It's super satisfying making these for friends and family so far. I hope to open up the next order after Christmas. I need to run 240v to my garage and finish my 2x72 grinder build...

Follow @marvel_knifeware on insta to catch the next batch when I open it up!

 

Already am and will definitely try to jump in on it.

 

I am amazed by the amount of filth there was behind the door skins. A fine dust coated every surface and there is literally mud caked along the bottom between the outer and inner panels.



Anyone know WTF are these called? I am going to have to buy something, there is nothing in my tool box that looks like them.




And it looks to me like it was phillips #2 pan head screws holding the handle to the door frame.

 

They're TORX, probably a T35

 

Thanks. So I need a kit like this I think. I was going to need a T10 here pretty soon anyway. Do you know who might carry one locally?

$6 HORUSDY 14-Piece Tamper Resistant Star Bits, S2 Alloy Steel, T5 - T40 Security Torx Bit Set

https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-14-P...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

Horrible freight has a nice multi kit for 3/8 ratchet. Home Depot has em from Milfukee and Cryobi too

 

Thanks Zane

 

Any lumber yard will carry torx or an ace hardware

 

None of the HF kits include a T35. They all skip from T30 to T40.

 

It may not be a T35, I can only guess so well from here. I use T35 a ton on Bimmers and Ford's so it's my go to first try haha. I mighta got mine in another set. AutoZone has em for sale onesy twosy. I'd go try it on mine and tell you what it is, but I have two older Toyotas that still use a Large JIS + fastener there instead of Torx.

 

Are you sure it's a t35?

In a pinch you can just use an allen. Just have to find the sae or metric that fits best. Won't be the best but generally for body panel stuff that's not torqued too tight it's enough to get them out.

 

That's cool. I asked in the daily so we'll see if anyone knows for certain.

 

No, I am not certain. I 'm sure someone with an '01-'04 has done this before and will know or can test fit.

 

Thanks for doing that.

 

Question about passive crossover settings for the component speakers in my truck. In particular, the tweeter settings. I am starting the process of adding sound deadening to the driver door. Eventually the plan is to do much more of the cab. I had forgotten about the passive crossovers until I took the door skin off the other day. There it was, mounted on the backside of the door skin, up near the tweeter.




As you can see from the photos, the crossover can be set to 4 different settings, 0dB, -2dB, -4dB, and -6dB. I am trying to understand the implications of these settings. The web says that they provide a way to reduce the volume or brightness of the tweeter's output in relationship with the other speaker components in the system. In my system, that would include mid-bass component speakers in the doors and 2-ways in the side panels in the back seat. Also in the back seat is an 8" sub.

One of the unknowns of adding sound deadening will be the actual impact on how this system sounds. When I originally set it up several years ago, I chose to set the crossover at -4dB. Overall I have been happy with the way it sounds. But I've always felt it could be better as the sound from the tweeters can be intense with some music at higher volumes.

When it gets down to it, I don't know whether changing this setting is something that is worthwhile, considering the addition SoundSkin mats and closed cell foam.

 

Your deadening, especially if you choose to go overboard will cause the mids and lows to drop off, not the highs. So you may want to attenuate them. That said, if you go by the little is a lot rule of deadening doors, it likely won't need adjustment. Thanks for attending my TED Talk

 

I am not sure what going overboard means. I've been sort of following Dan's lead on this. In his write-up he says this is 78%. Is that what is considered 'overboard'? I don't want to loose mids and lows if it can be avoided.

 

No that's completely reasonable.

This is overboard



Car speakers are infinite baffle, also known as "free air", they're not designed with a specific enclosure in mind, they need that door space to work to their advantage. But the amount of deadening in Dan's picture, while looking both sparse and entirely arbitrary, is plenty and should work great. I doubt you'll experiece frequency rolloff much like that. Consider putting a 6" square directly behind the speaker specifically though to absorb the backwave from the speaker. Kills that rattly resonance you can get with some frequencies when played loud.

 

That picture is interesting. The openings on the inside structure are not covered. Hhmmm. I think Dan covered his completely. I don't have a picture showing that, only one that shows it partially covered.




Following his lead, I have already put a big piece of mat, roughly 12x12, and a 2nd layer of 8x8 on the outer skin behind the mid bass speaker. And had planned to add another 8x8 piece of foam on top of that. Now I am wondering if that is too much.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-adventures.484602/page-174#post-23852689