Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Ford 9”

 

It is actually advantageous to have the rear end a bit narrower than the front, it gives you a bit of oversteer which combats the widened track width in the front. You don't need to widen the rear to match the front. If you do add spacers to the rear consider these two items :

1. You will have to cut your fenders up higher to ensure that your tires will tuck when the rear end articulates.
2. Actually measure your WMS to WMS on your front end after your new kit is installed, then measure you rear end and buy spacers accordingly. If you just buy 2" spacers for the rear because you are going 2" over in the front you may not end up where you want to be and depending on how much you have pre loaded the front end you could end up wider in the rear...IE: There are a whole lot of Taco's on the road with stock front ends and rear ends wider than the front because everyone neglects to remember that as you lift the front of the truck you narrow the trackwidth as the UCA and LCA draw inward. So if stock the front and rear trackwidth is equal OE then when you lift the front end 2-3" the front track width narrows prob a 1/2". SO if you end up with the rear end wider you create understeer which IMO is a worse condition and I swear it translates into funkier feeling conditions and front end alignment weirdness feelings.

 

I frickin love this community!

 

I have the 2.25" kit and am running 1.5" spacers in the back. Definitely narrower in the back but looks fine and drives good. @Evenflow covered all the bases though!

 

Not saying that you are wrong at all but I forgot to include that I think the reason a lot of people miss the track width issue is that the flare of the bedsides is not the same as the flare of the front fenders so IE: you can't judge it visually by how far your tires are sticking out etc.

I missed it myself ...I currently have a +2 Solo kit in the front and 1 1/4" spacers in the rear but my rear trackwidth is wider but simple math 2"+2" = 4" wider front vs 1 1/4" + 1 1/4" = 2 1/2" wider rear would lead you to believe the front should 1 1/2" wider...so measuring the actual WMS to WMS is the only way to properly judge it. I was chasing handling quirks and stumbled across it...math can be a real bitch sometimes.

 

1.5” spacers in the rear match the 2.25 kit perfectly. As @Evenflow said a big part of the front track width is where the ride height is set. The tire at full droop with the 2.25 kit pulls in 1.5” compared to when the arm is flat.

 

For sure. My front height is pretty low, the arms are almost flat, so I'm basically as wide as it gets in the front. I'm betting i'm easy 1/2" if not full 3/4" wider per side in the front compared to the back.

 

Bed cage is going down...

 

As in travel numbers? He said 15", on page 124. Price numbers, idk.

 

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Are the bed to cab bars bolted in place with interlocking tube clamps?

 

They will get installed when I’m done so the entire bed cage is removable

 

Precision!

 

Let’s see the interior some more!!

 

Are you still going to put the pillar trim and headliner back in? Or will it not work?

 

Having it wrapped in suede so you won’t see any of the cage at all

 

Nice!

 

I started reading last night, and I just finished today after reading most of the day at work (nothing going on..) and wow. This is incredible. I don't have the funds or really the need but I really wanna get like ALL the things here haha. Baby steps right? Got me thinking about selling my subaru and bronco so I can dump all the $$ into +4 LT with all the goodies. Only problem then is I don't have a backup vehicle lol. Seriously though great work @81Trekker . This has been one of the most enjoyable threads I have gone through with 3000+ posts I wish there was more!

 

Thank you for the kind words and there will be lots more neat stuff to come... there just might be some very wild custom hubs/spindles to come