What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Now I'd probably say something like, "but that'll wreck another set of spherical bearings."

Speaking of which, it's still early in the day, but I've already:

• Ordered 2 sets of FKSSX10T-F1 bearings (stainless steel, extra tight) ones that are on the way. I won't install them for a few months since I just put in a set of the COM10Ts, but will be interesting to see how long the SS ones last. Price was 2x the COM10Ts.
• Made a headlight wiring harness in prep for my OSRAMs that are arriving from the UK soon, hopefully to permanently replace the LEDs. Will run through relays on the Bussmann, so just need the wiring from there to the headlights.

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I am a little confused by what I am seeing. The "-F1" seems to not be stainless.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-com10tf1

Or is this the one you are getting?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-fkssx10

Or maybe Summit has it all screwed up.

Edit: It looks like there is also this one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-fkssx10t?rrec=true

 

The good stuff Time!

Time to do the front and rear diffs=Amsolil
And transmission and Tcase = Redline

AND replacing ALL the pressure relief valves for each one on these items too.
The best 5.00 investment ( valve pressure valve) to avoid a seal getting blown out of tour diff or transmission

 

-F1 is just a tightness spec from FK (see attachment that they sent me after a phone call). Then, it's a matter of purchasing the bearings from whatever vendor you want, with that designation. I happened to get the FKSSX from offroadwarehouse.

Note: A conversation with Tim @TMFF confirmed for me that we should be using -F1 (and not the "standard"/unspecified -F2); if you've bought from him, you've gotten the -F1's.

Note 2: Based on FKs description of breakaway torque, the bearings I got from ADS were -F2 (equivalent, I don't know if they were FKs).

 

Thanks. Have you purchased from ORW before? Just curious. I recall with a previous transaction with them that they did some funky stuff. I can't remember details now, but I remember it putting me off. I have not purchased from them since then. Maybe that's not fair to them.

 

nice!

Im doing aux lights next but hope to redo the head lights soon.

hm interesting on the tightness spec. Perhaps that's why yours didn't last as long, the seal wasn't as tight.

 

There isn't a seal, It's a steel/SS race with a PTFE layer then a steel/SS ball inside that.

 

I'd never even heard of ORW before I found the part # there in a search, so I can't really say. Not knowing anything about them, I did use Paypal, so I'm at least a little bit covered in case something weird goes down. Shipping was free, but there's a 7-10 day wait on the bearings themselves (probably they will order from or drop ship from FK is my guess). Since I'm in no real rush, that didn't bother me (yet.)

I think he was just being lazy and said seal rather than joint. Monte's a pretty lazy guy as we all know.

Personally, I'm hoping the tighter joint lasts longer. Maybe the tightness keeps some crap out.

 

Wonder if FK has on shore warehousing or not. Their stuff all comes from Mao's Funland

 

basically finished up my drawers today, all that's left is to bed-line the hatches for the cubbies on the side.

 

New rims n rubber

 

Good lookin box. How far out do they go?

 

Finally got this done. New OME struts and Camburg upper arms.

 

I drove around my clapped out yota and made the whole town mad

 

Graphite spray is great for things like locks and other mechanisms that benefit from a dry lubricant. PB Blaster makes one, among others.

 

I'm guessing his truck is catless.

 

they're about 70.5" long and they can be pulled out completely if need be. i'd guess that they pull out about 55" before they really should just be taken out completely. just a guess though.

 

If I'm getting my english right (its my first language, not sure I'm doing this right), he parked his truck. Then in another vehicle, he drove around his parked truck. Somehow, this angered the village people.

 

Had to do a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearings, flywheel facing and rear main seal. I did the clutch myself shortly after I bought it at 268,000 I got the Napa clutch kit and It did great for almost 100,000 miles, but I had my truck stolen a little bit ago and they burned the clutch to nothing in less than 2 miles. I couldn’t push it any further.

This time around, I don’t have the time to do it myself with work and my own remodeling at home to finish before my first baby shows up, so I bit the bullet and paid a local mechanic to do it, for $1450. Reminds me why I do my own mechanic work 90% of the time. The silver lining is, this time, I have OEM parts and the warranty on labor and parts.

 

Made more progress on my topper rebuild and roof rack reinforcement:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-topper-rebuild.694546/