PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Yes...

 

@shakerhood

Be glad your house has propane; My friend Jeff’s parents live in a house in Perkasie in the middle of nowhere. The house was built in either 1987 or 1988, and has the original Carrier central air-conditioner; Most houses in the middle of nowhere (as in not located near public natural gas) in this area use oil or a heat pump. This house has cool-only central A/C and electric baseboard heat!



The house is located on a large but oddly shaped piece of land, and the house is rather small (less than 2,000 square feet) with an odd layout; For some reason it does not have a basement, which is rather odd for this area

 

Yeah l am happy with propane and the price isnt too bad. Natural Gas is really spotty around here, up by the prison is about the only area that l can think of that has it. One house for sale up that way actually had it's own natural gas well on the property.

 

Also, I have never actually seen these residences in person, but there are some townhouses in Bensalem that were built in the 1970s or 1980s, and I found out about this development from guy who taught the "Intro to HVAC" night classes I took back in 2011-2012; The teacher is a veteran HVAC tech and the vice president of a company (may be retired by now) that did a lot of work (service calls and full-on replacements) in this development.

The most common residential HVAC setup in Southeastern PA by far is the straight-cool central air/natural gas furnace split-system. Most houses have one, but a lot of the newer 2-story homes built from the late 1990s onward have two separate systems. Oil heat was probably the most common system in all of PA, before the suburbs and existed and public gas became easier to access; As heat pumps started to get more efficient, they replaced oil heating systems as the top choice in new construction homes (I've never seen a home in my area newer than the early 1990s with oil heat). Now, heat pumps are probably tied for second place with oil heating systems (boilers and furnaces); A lot of new homes with no access to public natural gas have heat pumps with propane backup, or even straight-cool A/C units with propane furnaces (same as gas furnaces but with the fittings replaced to accept LPG). A lot of new houses out in the boonies have standalone heat pumps, however; With the exception of the place my parents rented in Doylestown from 2005 to 2007 (which had oil heat), all of our houses in Pennsylvania have had gas heat and central air, with two of the three including the one we're in now having two separate systems (dual-zone).

 

@shakerhood

Going back to the townhouse development in Bensalem, for whatever reason the builder went with straight-cool central air-conditioners and electric heat (which is basically a cluster of overgrown toaster coils with a fan blowing over it; These range from 5kw to 20kw, depending on the size of the house and the region where it's located; same concept as backup/emergency heat for a standalone heat pump). Electric heat will actually get the job done better than a heat pump in this area, but it costs a fortune to run (more than a heat pump), which is why most houses around here have natural gas, propane, or oil!

The night class instructor said that a few homeowners in that development switched to heat pumps when the original A/C units failed, in the interest of lowering their electric bills, but a good number replaced the old systems with identical new systems (straight-cool A/C and electric heat)…

 

I remember NOCO doing heating oil deliveries on our ranch in NY. The smell was so terrible I would leave the house. I would like to set up a propane line for my stove

 

Six degrees of Kevin Bacon...

My personal trainer's husband is the nephew of the guy who used to own the HVAC company that my night class instructor worked for; His first house, which he bought before he met my personal trainer, was a 2-bedroom townhouse built in about 1997 that had straight-cool central A/C and gas heat (the most common setup in the Northeast). Since his uncle owned a HVAC company and licensed Carrier dealer, he got a deal on a top-of-the-line Carrier TECH2000 heat pump and variable-speed gas furnace (a "Hybrid Heat" system); The system worked good enough, but he found that he used the gas heat much more often than the heat pump even when it was it was in 40s or 50s outside (when heat pumps work most efficiently), and told me he regretted spending the extra money on the heat pump he almost never used!

 

Oil heat smells like diesel fuel and is honestly pretty much the same thing; The HVAC company I am discussing right now sells and installs oil furnaces and boilers, but no longer services them because it is such a messy endeavor!

And do you mean the kitchen stove? Do it! I will never understand why some houses are built with gas heat but the builder installs an electric stove; Our house in Oak Harbor had gas heat (no A/C) but an electric stove

 

Yea my kitchen stove I want to do it.

 

The kitchen in our townhouse in Furlong was my favorite kitchen ever! First house my parents ever bought with granite countertops in the kitchen; Also the first house they bought with a wall oven (as opposed to a range like you've got)! It had cherry cabinets and verde butterfly (green with white and silver specs) granite, and stainless steel GE profile appliances; The oven even had a convection feature! The one fuckup in that house was that it had a gas cooktop with a downdraft ventilation system; What this did when in use was actually suck the flame downward, thus reducing the efficiency of the burners and causing them to take longer to heat the food...



I cannot speak with regards to the efficiency of an electric cooktop with downdraft ventilation because I've never used one, but I would imagine that they are slightly better than their gas counterparts because they use a heating element instead of an open flame. However, I'd still never go with a downdraft ventilation system if I actually had a choice in the matter...

When my parents bought the house they are in now, I told them to make sure the builder went with an overhead "hood" ventilation system or at least an over-the-range microwave with a ventilation system because downdraft ventilation sucks (not in the way it's supposed to). Luckily, it would seem, that the standard cooking appliance setup for the whole neighborhood was 4-burner gas cooktop with overhead ventilation hood, 30" built-in self-cleaning wall oven, and 30-inch microwave above wall oven. A few of our neighbors spent he extra money for a double wall oven, like my neighbor across the street, but he has his wife, three kids, and his mother-in-laws to feed; Unless I'm making a pizza, I NEVER use the oven in our house and primarily use the microwave and stove.

 

The biggest key difference between the oven in the Furlong house and one in the house we're in now is that the oven and the microwave were separate but part of the same combo unit; If one or the other failed and couldn't be fixed, then the whole unit would likely have to be replaced at a cost of $2,500+. The wall oven in our current house is mounted directly below the microwave, but is entirely separate from it; This means that if the oven fails and has to be replaced but the microwave still works (or vice versa), then my parents will save a whole hell of a lot of money! The oven in our current house does not have a convection feature, but my mom doesn't particularly care because she only used it in our old house a couple times (one of which was to bake my birthday cake one year, at my own request).

 

Not really sticking anymore...

 

Though is sticking to my clothes...

 

That's what she said!

 

I'm thinking that my truck is actually prewired for cruise control; Even if the indicator light doesn't come on, I'm going to hook it up the way it's illustrated in the diagram and test it...

 

Take a pic of the 4 pin connector on the clockspring (male) with no wire connector installed (female) and post. Assuming your 4 pin connector has the two lower pins (I forget the pin numbers) and they have continuity to pins 1 @ 2 on the back connector, your clockspring should be fine (from what I have learned). The problem, as far as the clockspring, is in my research, it appears that some clocksprings do not have all the pins - but I don't know if those clocksprings are aftermarket.

Someone stated that all OEM clocksprings have the necessary pins, and that only aftermarket clocksprings may vary (marketed as "w/o cruise control").

Assuming all pins are there and there is continuity from the pins in the 4 pin to the pins in the back connector, you should only have to add 2 wires - one to the existing ECU and 1 to ground from pins 1 & 2 of the back connector (if they aren't already there) - NOT A WHOLE NEW HARNESS. Your year MAY also need a little more wiring for the dashboard cruise light (I'm not familiar with your year), but I have read that many just live without the dash light.

 

Can't hurt to try

 

Where is the ECU located?