TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Fact. Less stopping power equals more SPEED!

I did the WAT valve body. Easily one of the best and worst upgrades I’ve done. It’s definitely a handful to put into place with one person, but it’s doable. It shifts so crisp and seems to hold the shifts at all the right times. For some reason, and I can’t rule out user failure, but when I’m backing up and I shift quickly from reverse to drive without a brief pause in neutral, I will stall the engine. It’s super annoying and I plan to drop the valve body and make sure all the orings are properly seated, but it runs so well I have prioritized other upgrades prior to going back Into he tranny. So ultimately, I love the performance, but hate the occasional stall I have when returning to drive. Definitely need to go back sooner than later.

 

That's one crazy rear setup, love it! What was the difference in the WAT vs Ratiotek? I remember you noted you were going in another direction but had no idea exactly what you were doing.

 

Umm, I mean, that's not incorrect.

 

If i respond with with anything other........I'd be on a perma ban with torspd.

 

Yeah I’m gonna need some videos of all this in action and you to tell me how terrible it is so I don’t do this to my wife’s 4Runner

 

I have disk to drum conversion parts for those that want extra speed.

 

The WAT is a complete valve body from an Australian company, and is around $1200 bucks. Heres a run down on them: https://cruiserbrothers.com/brands/wholesale-automatic-transmissions/ If I can find it, I'll post up a link to a video from @ThomasMore66 It was a great example of what the valve does for daily driving. Speaking of which....Where have you been at @ThomasMore66 ? I hope alls well.

Yeah will do. The rear's ready to sit on its own weight. The front had a small setback with the collection of modifications. The subframe kit intended for the Tacomas has about 1" wider LCA pivots than the FJ. So with the cams all the way in, I'm still getting 2.3-3 degrees neg camber. I knew about this prior to executing, but I thought there was a chance it would adjust in ok. I'm currently converting my Dirt Designs UCA's from bushings to Hiems so I can correct my camber. Should be good to go shortly. Hopefully my axles have enough stretch. I think they'll work.

 

$1295 for the valve body...
$595 if you want a torque converter bypass switch

Hmm...

 

Just so you guys know there is no filter I side the valve body, it's more like a strainer. You can clean that out with carb clean and move along your merry way.

It sounds like you gaffed up the install somewhere in the process. Eventually you'll have to pull it apart and inspect it like you mentally have prepared yourself to do. At least you know.

 

Well there goes my Christmas bonus...

 

true but it's like $25 for a new one. Not like we pull apart the transmission every day.

 

hmm yah I have heard this come up a few times. How would it compare to the IPT/Ratiotek? Part of me was leaning towards just buying a built unit but i like that its only $40 and I get to learning how to break I mean fix my trans.

 

If you want to, but even the Tacoma service manual and every tech that works at the Yoga dealerships indicate it's not needed.

Just trying to save you from extra ordering hassle as well as your wallet from unnecessary spending.

Surprisingly Toyota implemented the "clean and reinstall" old school methodology from yesteryear which is refreshing to see for a change instead of typical new school throwaway parts.

Your call.

 

that bypass switch is interesting. Anyone running one?

 

Cool makes sense. once less thing to order.

 

Maybe there is something I'm missing here, but we have control over our gears beyond just D. I keep it out of D when I'm screwing around whether it's on dirt, towing, or just general hauling of the ass variety. Eliminate D out of the equation and the torque converter won't lock up.

We also have the ability to control at what speed TCC lock up engages/ disengages via HPTuners, and just about everyone here has HPT now so I don't see the need for this rig.

 

Are you saying that as long as the shifter isn't in D the torque converter will not lock up at all?
What if we WANT it to lock up - that's what the switch product does - bypasses whatever the ECU is telling the trans and just sending the lock up signal.

I don't have HPTuners
I'm also still a bit paranoid after the ownership experience with my 1st gen and that the previous owner really screwed that truck up.

Also, for those thinking about that valve body - there is also a $500 refundable core deposit that includes a postage paid return box. Just FYI that you'd be dropping ~$1800 immediately to get it.

 

That's what I was missing. That's right. If you WANT to lock it up outside of normal condition, you would need this switch to engage it, and it's a lot easier and convenient than doing it via HPTuners. As you would have to flash an on or off condition every time you wanted to do it.

Just know you will probably generate a ton of additional heat in the tranny while in a low load/ locked condition which is usually not advisable for that very reason.

 

Its for getting better MPG's while towing.

 

Towing in 4 with OD on and better fuel economy?

That's a trip to think about, but I'm always for better MPG so whatever it takes right?