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Is this a common issue with the Kicker amp?

 

I know where you’re going with this but I also wanted more volume from the rear speakers so it was less front staged. The amp definitely helped in this matter.

Typically I’m using CarPlay through USB.

Without the amp I would need to max out to 60 on the volume at hwy speeds now it’s golden at 35/40, plenty of bass and volume.

 

The reason I ask about sound deadening is that most cover the inside of the doors but I have found using sound deadening on the plastic door panels has yielded a hug improvement in bass quality.
I have been using a closed foam type and just cover the inside of all plastic panels including the kick panels beneath the dash.

 

TBH I don’t know, I am definitely a novice when it comes to audio installs so this is my first Kicker.

Until Damguide, asked I hadn’t really noticed it. As soon as the volume is up I don’t notice it. Presumably it’s down to how it’s wired in. Maybe it’s always on, maybe it turns on with the car but then times out after a few minutes. I haven’t looked into it enough...

 

That def sounds like an easier way. I remember dynomatting a friends car back in the day... fun times!

Do u have a link to the material you’ve been using.

 

yeah that annoys me, I want to find an amp that doesn’t do that or a way to turn off the kicker when the audio is off.

I like to have the audio off a good bit and just enjoy some quiet

 

From what I have heard of the 180.4, yes. It’s not an issue, but a cheap amp thing is from what I gather. This is the first time I got to ask someone with the 200.4 on here, I have the 180.4.

 

I remember in the instructions it mentions about the auto on...etc. it may be something to do with settings. Tbh doesn’t bother me as I’ve only done 4500miles in the last year and most of that I’m listening to something...

 

@DamGuide did you run power to the battery? If so, can u not just plum in a dash power switch?

 

Yeah I think the blue wire is what you wire up to get it to turn on with the head unit, but I haven’t found anyone who has wired it up yet and knows a good spot to wire it.

 

yeah, that’s kinda what I am doing now. I want a better solution.

 

Here is a thread with people complaining about it.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/kicker-key180-4-noise-floor.424802/

 

Here you go.

$59 uxcell 315mil 8mm 32.29sqft Car Floor Tailgate Sound Insulation Deadener Mat 118" x 40"

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-32-29...7571704&sprefix=uxcell+315mil+,aps,205&sr=8-1

 

If you wanted to have a discrete power button for the amp how about mounting a small switch on the left panel inside the glove box?

 

It’s more I want to do it automatic where I don’t have to mess with a switch. Which probably means a better amp.

 

I have an Alpine which senses the input from the speaker and turns on automatically. It also has the standard remote trigger option.

 

If I remember right The kicker can do that, it’s one of the dip switches...

 

It doesn’t fix it, I believe that blue wire is what you need to make it function like I want.

 

@DamGuide So I decided to go and troubleshoot a little bit. Once I disconnected the amp and connected the HU back up I noticed a faint but audible white noise from the tweeters and the tiniest amount from the front speakers. The tweeters were more noticeable. Do you experience this? I’m wandering if when the amp is connected it’s just amplifying the noise that is already there?

FYI I have Subaru tweeters and kicker ds everywhere else.

 

Read your manual. This took me 30 seconds to find online:

Automatic Turn-On Selection: The KEY series offers two different automatic turn-on modes that can
be selected on the end panel; +12V and DC Offset. Using the DC Offset mode causes the REM wire to
have +12V out for turning on additional amplifi ers.
• Remote Turn-On: Set the switch to +12V to use the remote turn-on lead from your source unit. Run
18 gauge wire from the Remote Turn-On Lead on your source unit to the blue REM wire on KEY
amplifi er's wiring harness. This is the preferred automatic turn-on method.
• If 12V remote turn-on is not available, DC Offset turn-on can be used if speaker-level audio inputs
are being used. The DC offset mode detects a 3V DC offset on the speaker wires when the source
unit has been turned on.
Radio Detect: The RCA inputs on KICKER KEY amplifi ers are capable of receiving either Hi or Low-level
signals from your source unit. If you are using Hi-Level inputs, but your source unit cannot detect an audio
system present or refuses to play audio out of one or more speakers, you may need to set Radio Detect
to ON. This will activate a load resistor at the amplifi er's inputs and tell the source unit there are speakers
present. Do NOT use Radio Detect if you are using a Low-Level input signal; doing so will greatly reduce the
input signal.