The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

Finally caught up with this thread.
Interesting camper for sure. Glad to see another competitor in the wedgefalia market.

No camper is perfect and several here have had experiences with various types, myself included. I began with a Flippac, then moved up to a FWC Finch, and now have a Tradesman shell/topper. The weight savings from the FWC to the Tradesman was night and day. My set up is fairly dialed in but I do miss sleeping above the ground up high having a better view of my surroundings. There are a few things on the SP that I'm not a fan of but I won't go into those this early in the product's market presence.

Looking forward to seeing what everyone does with their SPs.

 

I was on the fence with a tradesman and a flat RTT style on top, since most of my use is as a normal truck topper. But, SP came along and I was able to sell my GFC on the spot!

 

When the GFC came to market I knew there were things that I could not live with even before all the owners began to have issues. I had windoors on the Flippac and have a passenger side full door w/ windows on my Tradesman and half doors on the drivers side. I need windows on the sides. It would be cool to have small sliders like I have on my Tradesman as an option on the SP. Then there's my kitchen box on the drivers side. I love having that. No more slinging a kitchen tote in and out. Everything stays put for the most part in there. I could see rigging up something similar in the SP but it would leave the other area open for bug intrusion.

 

When I visited SP awhile back Spencer said his idea was to get tops in the hands of people more so than wiring up accessories, switch pods, etc. He did say he had a local resource for that, as in just around the corner, if I remember right. I'm perfectly comfortable handling my own as it will be pretty elaborate but it would be cool if he wired in the third brake light if he does your install. That's pretty simple and then nothing is left incomplete on the top.

 

Yah same as my shell but I did have to pay to have it installed. The others like vagabond charge $600 so it’s a trade off.

 

Yah I’m on doing mine own as well. Plus I did reach out to the other group asking about some stuff they did for Spencer and they ghosted me so not winning any points with me. Just figured it would be simple if I was there.

 

Yah at least the third brake light. It’s not rocket science but I guess the good thing I was planning on bringing some tools to wire my solar back up.

 

Who did? Does not look like they are on the list.

 

this is getting deep.

 

Damn sounds like you know what you’re doing ! Can’t wait to see and follow

 

@frenchee - for your truck you could do similar to what I did on my 1st gen. I ran a duplex 10AWG cable I got from West Marine from the battery then down along the frame and popped up at the front of the bed and poked through a hole in the front wall that was there from the BedSlide that was anchored there. You could easily add a hole here on the front wall OR just poke through one of the two large circular grommets on the bed floor and send the wire into the bed from there.
I put an inline fuse holder about 4 inches from the + battery terminal that had a 10AMP fuse in it since I was only running a Dometic CFX50 and a few LED lights.

The nice part about that duplex wiring from West Marine is that it has an outer sheath on it so I didn't bother putting anything else on the outside like that corrugated plastic wire loom that just collects dirt and grime.

 

Yeasssir. I might go with my aux battery. We’ll see. I think I also have an old 12V wire running to front but thin.

 

@JasonLee
Just googled that duplex cable. I like that. Has a sheath and encapsulates two wires so you have a ground and positive all bundled.
Is it pretty flexible, or rigid?

I was trouble shooting some fridge voltage yesterday and realized I dont have the fridge fused. Well it's fused AT the fridge (fridge protection), but not close to the battery where the leads are.
I have a battery meter, a blue seas fuse box blaaaablaaaa that I need to install. Been putting it on back burner. You got any pics of ur old install?

 

Get that fuse on there! I run a 20 amp fuse from a blue sea for the fridge. I like the idea of duplex cables too. I hate running that crap on the wires to protect it. The most time-consuming part of the install. Makes me not want to re-run anything.

Looking at the duplex I may not go that route if 10awg is the smallest. As I may have some other stuff that would require more draw (maybe) I tend to overbuild so I do not have to re-run it. Right now I am running a 6 awg wire to the rear then grounded on the frame below the bed. Only had lights, 12v, UBs hooked up for now but had pipe dreams of moving fridge there along with more outdoor scene lighting, possible heater, etc. Both batteries are in the engine bay to keep as much free space as I can but I am starting to like the idea of batteries in the rear. Some Li batteries would be primo.

 

The duplex is semi-flexible. It probably would take a tight bend, but you have to convince it.

I left it extra long when I had it in the 1st gen and when I removed and re-installed into my 2nd gen, I had more than enough length to run it along the frame on the drivers side all the way to the rear cubby and poke into the bed there to connect the LED lighting and ARB socket for the fridge.

 

I ran 16ga back to the bed, I did some maff on voltage drop over distance and for my uses, it seemed negligible. My volt meter in the back only ever went down to 10v when I had everything on and plugged in, but would rebound back to 12.whatever volts when I’d turn it off.

Sliding the wire loom over my wires was actually therapeutic, as well as crimping and tying up the connectors with heat shrink. I overdo it in the sense that I’ll pull a run of wire and take it back out just to make sure the length is perfect and the connectors are solid and pretty

 

It is less important with LEDs (depending on how the controller works), but with my fridge it has a safety built in where it senses the voltage and shuts off at adjustable levels to not kill the battery. I chose 10AWG for minimal voltage drop over the distance.

 

Same here but I also noticed my voltage protection on the high or middle section always trips too low so I have to run it on the low 9v or so and never have issues. I overran it with 6awg in case I run more stuff back there its ready for it or if I decide to move a battery back there. I really want a red vision system if I ever go full ham on a build out.

 

I'm chasing down a fridge voltage frustration rn.
Fridge says one thing, but I know the battery says another. I havent posted yet since I need to take more measurements, but I really dont think it's my wire to the fridge losing me a volt.

 

This is similar to what I did. I have done it twice now with improvements each time, first on a GMC half ton crew I had for a short time.

I have a lift in my shop and will be building a jig/rack to be able to very easily lift the SP off my Tundra, which I've wanted to do for a long time with my current rack/RTT but haven't. I'll rarely if ever move the top when I do need it off, to use my truck for something truckish, I'll want it off quickly. For this reason I'm going with a Anderson Power Pole setup but I also have another idea. I've been meaning to hit a salvage yard and find a big, multi wire (multi size and multi wire) connector from a salvaged car or truck. There are plenty of junctions on modern cars that have 10 guage down to very small gauge that I could repurpose for one huge do-it-all plug that is OEM quality, waterproof and durable.

My current AGM battery is in the bed of the truck but I'll be moving it to a rack under the truck to free up space and lower the COG so I'll need a plug to all of the stuff in the top. I'm planning for lights and power (some switched from the dash), a back up camera, solar and also kicking around the idea of a Maxxair vent in the center of the roof. I don't think many of you want to get that elaborate but living in the muggy south air flow is paramount. These quiet, efficient and reversible fans are the shiznit. I've had them in everything I've camped in for many years except a RTT of course.