OFFICIAL XB LED HEADLIGHTS THREAD 16+

That’s how I had it initially, but I didn’t think it was doing the startup sequence? I will try it again

 

Startup sequence starts when you put the e-brake down because that's when the DRLs first turn on.

 

Does anyone know if it Is an issue that on my 2017 SR5, the morimoto xb DRL is amber? It’s white in some positions but amber in others.

I understand that my stock headlights used the turn signal (amber) in the middle two positions but didn’t know if this is an issue for these headlights.

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With the V2 version, is running the Amber DRL position still an issue for us SR5 owners?

 

Yes, this is an issue if you use the fuse tap. The fuse tap is annoying because you can't ever turn the DRL off because you're not tapping in to the vehicle's true DRL line (the SR5's do have these, just not set up as elegantly as the TRD's). I installed my Gen 2s yesterday and encountered this exact problem. There is a fix though, if you don't mind performing some small modifications. You will need a soldering iron, heat shrink, and about 6 inches or less of 20 gauge wire.

With the SR5 stock headlights, when your DRL or Parking Light setting on the stalk is on, that's not your turn signal, but rather a second, brighter running filament in the same bulb. This is activated by a relay upstream (that's the most I know about that lol). When your turn signal is activated, the truck turns off the DRL line, and activates the turn signal circuit. So knowing that there is a DRL line and turn signal line on the same 3-wire lead from the Morimoto (yellow, white, & black), you can cut the DRL wire on the truck's turn signal bulb harness and feed it to the same connector on the Morimoto lights you would normally connect the fuse tap to.

In regards to the resistor, I would recommend removing it. With the resistor running 24/7, it will get extremely hot as mentioned by the guys from TRS. The orange DRL "issues" on the SR5's were actually one of the things that leaned me towards these headlights and I hoped to be able and use it. As a result, I tried incorporating a 40mm heat sink to the back of the resistor, but with free convection only, there was no way it would cool off while it continued to generate heat from the LEDs' current. Then, I tried disconnecting the resistor and did not see any hyperflash issues with my rig, so I left them disconnected, and am currently running the amber full-time with the DRL and Parking Light options and I love it!

My setup is currently as follows on the stalk:

• OFF: All lights off
• DRL: Orange band
  
• Parking lights: Orange band
• Headlights: White band

Also my wiring for the setup (in relation to the Morimotos)

• Low Beam: Connected
• High Beam: Connected
• 3-Lead Turn Signal Connector: Connected
• Side Marker Light: Disconnected (the side markers still turn on even with the harness disconnected, don't know why)
• Blue DRL Jumper Wire: Connected (jumpered together)
• Fuse tap: Unused

You may wonder with the headlights on why it turns white from amber. It's because when the headlights are activated, the DRL line on the truck goes to zero voltage and the turn signal line goes high. This is because the turn signal runs at a much lower light intensity which is less blinding to drivers at night (at least this is the conclusion I made). Although it might seem weird having both DRL colors, I actually liked how it balanced out the different colored lights on my vehicle so I decided to not mess with that and keep it white. Also, the amber as a DRL is extremely bright, so I'm happy to not be blinding drivers at night with it. If you were to try and keep everything orange, it would require internal modifications to the Morimoto assembly or a more complex wiring job to "trick" the headlight harness.

All in all, if you cut your SR5's DRL line to break the circuit and run it to where the fuse tap plugs in to the Morimotos, you should have white light as follows when the truck is running:

• OFF: All lights off
• DRL: White band
• Parking lights: White band
• Headlights: White band

Also the wiring for the setup (in relation to the Morimotos)

• Low Beam: Connected
• High Beam: Connected
• 3-Lead Turn Signal Connector: Connected (make sure DRL wire on the truck's harness is disconnected and not running to this connector on the Morimotos)
• Side Marker Light: Disconnected (the side markers still turn on even with the harness disconnected, don't know why)
• Blue DRL Jumper Wire: Connected to DRL wire on the truck's harness (not jumpered together)
• Fuse tap: Unused

I hope this helps. There's a lot of lucky people out there with the TRD's and having an SR5, I wanted to help those out who experience the same issues as me!

EDIT: Added some photos and minor content edits for better clarity and fixed an error I made on the wiring.

 

Thanks!

So if I’m understanding it looks like;

Remove Morimoto fuse tap Harness from fuse box
Remove Morimoto fuse tap harness from headlight

Cut Stock DRL wire From truck side harness

Splice wire from Stock DRL truck side harness to Fuse Tap Fixed to the Morimoto headlight

 

Yes. I added some more clarity to my original post that should help too. You got it nailed though. I want to add that although I did not perform this modification to my truck because I liked the orange DRL, I'm very confident in it's ability to work properly given that I've seen how the headlights function. I would recommend cutting the line up a little ways from the connector so in case things do go wrong, you can easily re-solder it together. Let me know if this works correctly or you run in to any problems. On the 3-lead connector for the Morimotos, the black is ground, yellow is turn signal, and white is DRL, although it's always good to double check with a multimeter. Good luck!

EDIT: Yellow is DRL and white is TURN. My apologies.

 

Awesome! I was thinking something like this using the DRL harness’ connector. Im gonna do some more research but I’ll post up how this goes if I do it.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. It should come out pretty clean too. Assuming it works, this is a great opportunity for Morimoto to have a conversion harness included instead of a fuse tap.

 

I just had a thought. You should be able to cut the white Morimoto wire coming from your truck harness's DRL which seems a lot less risky to me, then your messing with the aftermarket headlights and not your truck. Don't know why I didn't think of this before lol.

 

I’ve had the Morimotos installed for about two weeks & my DRL’s are coming on all by themselves while the truck & lights are off. Also, the DRL’s are still on while in the off position. I’ve read a few complaints. Anyone find a fix?

 

Do you have a TRD OR and did you use the fuse tap?

 

I have an Off-Road. Yes, I used the fuse tap Because without it, the DRL’s won’t power for some reason.

 

Unless I’ve hooked it up wrong. But I don’t think so.

 

No fuse tap required for OR model since it has factory LED DRLs. You're supposed to connect the matching connector together on the wiring coming from the headlight. Almost similar to connecting the connectors together to disable the sequential turns.

The fuse tap is for SR/SR5 models and it's an known issue that if you follow those instructions for the tap, it taps ECU fuse which randomly turns on causing your DRLs to turn on. Fix for that is to used another ignition controlled fuse.

 

Gotcha! I wonder why the DRL’s won’t power if I go back to not using the fuse tap? I had it hooked up that way previously, but couldn’t get the DRL’s to turned on.

 

DRLs turn on once you release the parking brake with engine on. The startup light sequence starts then too.

 

Not good at retrofitsource

Less than 5 months with them!

 

Sorry man, they should be under warranty. You have to send a deposit and send your headlight back before getting a replacement if I recall correctly?

 

anybody know if the @MESO LED side markers will fit the xb? not sure if they are the same dimensions as factory..