Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

When you get a chance could you measure the height from the hub to fender? I’m curious where it sits at. Thanks in advance

 

I run a tepui 3 person tent, cross bars in the bed, and a kuat mini skinny rack in the rear. Unloaded got 3inches or so of lift. I loaded it up today with 150lb cooler, two inflatable paddle boards, 80lbs of tools designed other camping gear and it didn’t move but maybe .25-.5 inch. For what it’s worth. I think the addition of airbags to the performance springs is more than enough.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate that. I just purchased some Method 701s in 17 with 0 offset that are going on Saturday. I’ll update with pics, maybe I’ll debadge this weekend too.

 

I just checked again, I’m sitting at approximately 23” in the front and 24” in the back. Both sides.

 

2.5-3 front to back it’s settled now and for sure have 2.5 and I think it’s a half inch higher in the rear. I need to re measure lol

 

Hoooo-baby! East coast got the puller to me in less than a day and even with a quick/slight shave to the nut, had the old bearing out in less than 30min from time of unboxing.

Although, just tapping softly against the nut to get it in place caused a large sliver to break off from the backside of the bearing. I’m glad to hear folks who left it in aren’t having any issues, but yikes, this is one sensitive piece!



In the image you can see the piece that broke off and also where I had shaved some off the puller nut. I lucked out in being able to utilize my other two failed attempts in conjunction with the ECGS tool. The longer bolt I tried to use happened to be the right size and also the u-brace from autozone’s pilot tool allowed me to stay off the shaft seal.

super stoked to have caught a break here and currently have the new bearing on ‘chill’ mode in the freezer

 

Nice and good luck! Don’t forget to take any plastic you might have shoved in the diff out. Take your time tapping it in. It’ll still fight to go in and might try to go in canted.

 

Thanks bud. Always appreciate the sound reminders.

We’re all done! Bushing in and final strut / uca assembly installed.

Can’t drop the truck until I finish up the diff fluid.. and shaft relocation. This was some hard work, but I really enjoyed getting to turn some wrenches and learn a lot about the vehicle I’m in!

Will post final lift height in relation to the installed parts when she’s back on the hard.

 

Great to hear and looking forward to it!

 

Well fellas, 500 miles on the lift so far and not a single issue, still waiting to lower the front down this weekend. I had this odd clinking noise coming from the front end on the driver side. It wasn’t rotational and seemed to have nothing to do with the suspension or the road conditions (ie potholes, dips, corners, inclines) after checking every bolt and it’s torque I finally found that one of the clips that holds the rubber splash liner on had come out and it was flapping against the pinch weld of the truck causing the metallic clinking noise. One zip tie later and a forty mile test drive and no more issues. Worth a mention that once you remove those clips, they seem to be 50/50 if they want to hold the liner again. By the way if you haven’t tried it already, try rocking the truck left and right by pushing on the fender, with the new FCP setup this thing is a TANK!

 

I’m kinda confused right now, I show 4” of lift in the front. I think I need to add a leaf back in now hahah. I’m gonna marry this metal one day...

 

So, as I said earlier, I goofed and forgot to record the initial measurements for the rear. I feel safe in using what’s all over the forums as an approximate guess of CENTER HUB to FENDER. Gas tank is full and tires are set to 31 psi in case it matters.

STAGE 2 FOAM CELL PRO, TACOMA 2005+
* PRE-ASSEMBLED FRONT FITTED TO 2.5” LIFT
* CONSTANT LOAD REAR MINUS THE 5th AND 3rd LEAF

FRONT lift: 4.5” driver, 4.25” passenger
Before — driver: 19.75 // passenger: 20
After — driver: 24.25 // passenger: 24.25

REAR lift: 2” driver, 2.25” passenger
Before — driver: 22 // passenger: 22
After — driver: 24 // passenger: 24.25

Roughly speaking, the after measurements are 24” all the way around, yet it most certainly looks higher in the front. If I do a ground to fender measurement (which I feel is a little more accurate), I see a 0.5” difference in front to rear. If stick a level on top, it shows higher forward.

So what do you guys think, leave it as is or go back in and add the 5th leaf?

I’m a madman when it comes to stuff like this (should see me setting dock lines!) and dont mind the extra work since I’ll be taking off the u-bolts to get paint on the rear axle anyways.

I’m also curious how much the leafs will settle and might just run the trip to New Mexico as is and see how things look when I’m back to NC in March and can re-do the leaf bundles then.

 

Get a bumper, winch and armor and you’ll be good to go!
J/k, I think it looks good, but I’d probably decide after driving it for a bit and seeing how it settles after a bit. I really goofed and got the lowest leaf set so if I do add weight I’ll have to see if I can buy the extra leafs if needed...

 

Thanks devir. Skids n sliders are probably next in the installment list, if not upgraded headlamps. I’m in a moral dilemma for which is more important, lol. Looks or function. But yes, gonna drive it awhile, and I’m fairly certain I’d have at least one set of extra leafs I’d be willing to offload.

Looks like Ironman’s AAL is a comparable option to most the others out there, but it honestly seems like the concurrent theme here is only leaf removal

 

Speaking from experience, I would leave the back alone and lower the front. I think Ironman needs to get a better handle on where to set the front perches as everyone who follows their recommendation ends up front high.

Generally speaking, these trucks don’t do well lifting above 3”. If you leave it at 4”, you’ll want extended cv boots or the fins will rub on each other until they fail. Additionally, with that kind of preload the ride is very stiff.

To each their own but for me I think it looks much better, performs much better, and puts the axles a better angle. My $.02.

 

Stand by, gonna do a bit of pressure washing and will post some pics of the CV’s. But at quick glance, I think you’re right and hopefully a quick diff drop will bring things back to par. Thanks for the input though..

 

The fins on mine run a bit, I’m planning on doing this to fix it- https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boot-slide-mod-my-experience.492489/

@oakcity did you slide your boot yet?

 

@nwmorrow

passenger side, looking in from front

 

I agree with @nwmorrow when I first installed I was sitting high in the front. Lowered the front 5/8” per his recommendation and it’s perfect. It also got rid of the whirring noise I heard which I assume was the needle bearing on the driver side. I never did have vibrations. Also after lowering my cv angles are as good as they get. I also did a Toytec diff drop.

 

For those who are curious, I asked a local shop if they could lower the front by compressing springs and turning the collars down 5/8”. They said no problem. Well after all was said and done I went in to pick up the truck asked how it went. They ended up using the factory shock tool to lower the collars with them still in the truck (without a spring compressor). While I know that is NOT how Ironman recommends to do it, I guess it works. Put 150 miles on it today without an issue. My alignment was just a touch off which they corrected. I just figured I would let others know, I still would opt to use a spring compressor, but it can be done without apparently. For what it’s worth, hope it helps someone out.