vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma

Along with multiple other updates, valve timing will be correct scaling in the next release

 

The truck specs say the intake VVT has a sweep of 80 degrees. Have you ever tried to push it that far?

 

Sorry if this has been answered already (I did look), but when VF moves to being registered by VIN what happens to our ability as registered VF owners to tune other trucks (assuming we have that ECU unlocked)?

 

Those are more advanced than your 2.0 file...

 

ECU won't let you have more than 75

You'll still be able to tune other trucks. The process will change a little bit.

if you're looking at it currently in vF then yes, because this scaling is *to be updated*

 

Finally I figured out speeds and ability to manipulate downshifts and tc unlocking under high speed and loads
Vf speeds in table are in kph.
If you'd like to to climb the hills by cycling between 5th and 6th, set Primary Shifting-Downshift schedule 5th gear accel angle 31 to 125. I ended up with 125, which gives me ability to downshift 6 to 5 between 70-78 mph with accel angel 28.1- 29.7 %(real TS numbers). If need to downshift with less accel angle , need to move 31 value to 130-140 range


For TC unlocking, I set 45 value to 119.99. This allows me to climb fairly long and steep incline while maintaining speeds between 75-80 mph and keeping the engine load between 85-95%

In order to drop a percent of the angle , you need to increase speed by 10+ kph

 

Outstanding, appreciate the clarification

 

tire size? Stock gearing?

 

Stock drive train, 31" tires.

 

How'd you come to that conclusion, because in the months I've been tweaking the shifting and TC changes, this is 100% not the case for me. Example, stock upshift to 6th is set to 47.4 in VF. If that were kph it would be about 29.5 MPH for the MINIMUM speed to upshift to 6th. Thats turning 700 RPM... The minimum downshift is 41 which you're saying would be 25.5 MPH. Thats turning 600 RPM...

I'm willing to bet its not 29.5 it upshifts at. More around 42.

 

Yea my experience is also that the shifting tables are no where near kph. They don’t seem to match mph exactly either, as youve pointed out previously. My guess is that there are scale factor errors yet in these maps. So the numbers are just arbitrary values that happen to be somewhere in the ballpark of vehicle mph.

My guess is that by moving this value up so high Vlady has eliminated the shift map calling the shift, and now his truck is calling for shifts based off the optimal transmission torque for shifting maps, or possibly some other map that can call a shift that we are not yet aware of.

 

I spent $100+ on gas 500 miles on odo to figure it out.....
Maybe I'm wrong, but I have not been able to get what I want using mph.
As soon as I start plugging kph, I got it working.l and was able to dial to the % of the accelerator Again, this is for high speeds/loads.
I did look at my 3 to 2 and 2 to 1 downshifts (clunk on decel) and they are following kph as well.
But, there is that engine load variable that moves points around

 

You might already know this but the speed at which it shifts and the speed at which the ECU tells it to shift are not the same. There's a delay and even at normal acceleration can be around 3-4 MPH apart. I have my 2-3 upshift set to 65MPH but due to how long it takes for it actually shift I dont feel it until it hits 70. If you monitor with techstream at all you'll notice this since techstream polls a lot faster than any of the other OBD devices.

 

When flashing a tune from Tune Pack, the OV website recommends to "clear AT and Clear LV." What is AT and LV? I don't see an option on the flash tool to clear these. I only see the options to "Clear DTC", "Reset LV", and "Reset AT." Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Use the resets for LV and AT

 

LV and AT are the learned values for engine and transmission. As @Ron1965 said, use the buttons to reset LV and AT.

 

Thanks, Ron. Do I reset these after tune is flashed but before starting truck? Or after truck is started?

 

After flash, turn off, start truck as normal to ensure it is ok, then turn it off, then do the double press of start without starting, like you do for the flash, do the reset LV/AT, turn off, then start as normal one last time.

Pretty sure that was OV's advice

 

That’s it. Truck will run like hell for awhile until it resets

 

FYI - you can clear the AT and LV first - before you flash then flash. Simple and easy.