What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I peaked at 6, I attributed the .5 knockoff to having very free flowing exhaust and my custom large intake.

 

I wish I could figure out my vacuum leak. I have no idea where to start. Smoke machines shows no leaks and spraying starting fluid everywhere yields no results.

 

You done a compression test lately?

 

That’s not what I asked, now was it? Been doing that for a decade...

 

lol. Fair enough.





I have been too....and its been fine? I just don't see the point in something that I have to hard wire, when something I plug in works perfectly fine.

 

Just realized today that the wire that almost burned my truck down disintegrated. Not sure where that wire leads too.

 

It’s been perfectly fine for me too. There’s been some frustration in the power sockets rattling loose, from time to time, but over all it’s been “fine.” That said, when I find something that I can improve upon, I do it, when reasonable, because I can improve upon it.

 

@turbodb has some in his build that he prefers since they put out less EMI

 

Thanks! I’ll take a look at his build page.

I need to work on mine. Maybe I’ll update it when I get my pickup back together

 

I have not. Perhaps that’s the next step. I bought a compression tester for my Bayliner, maybe I can use it for the truck.

 

I've been through a few of these; here's my feedback:

• This one is a simple, cheap option, but lots of RFI that interferes with ham radio. If you don't care about that, works well @ 2.1A, 1A: (story: https://adventuretaco.com/a-break-in-and-usb-power/)
• Then I got this one, which solves the RFI problem, and charges at 2.1A, 2.1A: (story: https://adventuretaco.com/mod-wars-usb-charger-blocking-ham-radio-communication/)
• In the 4Runner, I just recently purchased this one. Kinda nice b/c it has the voltmeter on it. I don't know the RFI situation though, since I don't use radios in the 4Runner. Supports 2-3A charging (QC3.0) I'd only run this one in the cig lighter position (not 12v acc), since the voltmeter draws power, and the cig lighter is only active when the key is in Acc or On positions. (no story yet)

All of these fit perfectly in the cig lighter position or 12v accessory position. All charge USB well. #2 is the best IMO, but the most expensive.

 

Lean code check engine light? Is your intake modified? Something like changing the diameter of the intake tube where the sensor mounts can lead to inaccurate MAF readings.

 

Yes, intake is modified. I welded a bung for the Methanol nozzle upstream of the resonator box and downstream of the throttle body. I also deleted one of the plastic resonator boxes upstream of the airbox. Main metal resonator still remains.

I capped a 1/8 vacuum line on the lower part of the air box, I don’t exactly recall why.

I’ve only ever had a P0171 Lean code come up once, and it just so happened I was on my way to Moab. Usually my fuel trims aren’t lean enough to cause a code.

 

Yup.

 

very simple mod.
Go to Amazon- get these.
[2 Pack] 12V USB Outlet, Quick...

$17 [2 Pack] 12V USB Outlet, Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Power Outlet with Touch Switch, Waterproof 12V/24V Fast Charge USB Charger Socket DIY Kit for Car Boat Marine Bus Truck Golf Cart RV Motorcycle, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089SNPYFL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

grab your dremel.
Remove lower console and disconnect the power outlets.
The connectors are L shaped, gray plastic connectors.
Cut the gray plastic away revealing spades, one gold, one silver.
I used shrink wrap and insulated them.
Modify the two existing holes from the outlets using your dremel. You may have to sand down or remove some of the plastic from the back of the panel as well to accommodate.
These USBs have a gold and a silver spade on the back.
Install the USBs and then plug them in using the existing spades from the truck- gold to gold, silver to silver.
Reattach the panel in the truck and you’re done. 1/2 hour at most.

Clean and simple, no cutting, splicing or soldering.

 

This should be fun! Front end rebuild and Belltech 2/3 lowering kit.

 

Aaaaah shit

Edit: that lower control arm bolt is tight AF

 

Probably gonna have to exchange that socket for a sawzall blade

 

well after driving around for the last several months with only my Tach illuminated, I tore my dash apart to replace the 194 bulbs. what a major PITA this job is. while I had it apart I also replace the hvac bulbs also. but I need some help with part number for the 18 tiny ass bulbs, and the one bulb on the right hand side of the cluster that's just a little fatter than the tiny ones. Anybody have those part numbers handy. Should have taken a pic with the dash torn out. Looked like a grenade went off in the interior.

 

Nope, jack handle cheater bar FTW!

The strut rod bolt is torqued to over 200 ft lbs so I definitely needed it for that too.