2nd gen manual transmission fix

That was explained already in the post above but here you go . I welcome the questions
Remove the factory master cylinder pushrod from under the dash and install a large adjustment rod . I will also place a return spring on the slave as well as a threaded step to maintain release bearing gap .

 

I read your post and that's why I asked the question again because this won't work. You can completely remove the slave cylinder from the vehicle and the release bearing will still be in contact with the pressure plate fingers. I know this because I've done this. You can grab the fork and pull it away but if you think you have a bad noise now wait until you pull this bearing away from the fingers and then shove it back in. This again I've personally tried, I welcome anyone else try it and report back with the nasty noise you heard.

 

Too big of a gamble for me......I got a CM hydraulic bearing new in the box, still packaged how it came. I’ll sell it if someone wants it. Will probably go up on the for sale page soon.

 

Edit , I am using the factory upgraded slave


Thanks for the heads up .
Were you using a new Aisn or Luk clutch with the upgraded slave cylinder and upgraded pivot ball ?
Were you overstroking your release bearing ?
Were you using a " self centering release bearing " with a wider contact face or were you using the factory bearing that is not self centering ? There is a massive difference between the bearing I am using and the factory bearing
I need to know this stuff because you are going to save me from a lot of greif when I go about this .

 

In my case I have upgraded to the current ball, slave cylinder, and master cylinder. I've experimented with the factory clutch, spec 2+, spec 3+, ACT, URD stage 3, and URD stage 2 currently. The master cylinder was only replaced because the original plastic bodied one produced a squeak inside the cab. The other parts were done to add pressure against the release bearing/pressure plate fingers. In my case I had a custom spring made for the slave cylinder that ended up being one wire size larger than the upgraded spring. The stiffer spring silenced the chirp with all factory hydraulics/clutch components. After all factory upgraded parts installed it chirped again so the stiffer spring went back in again. Let me clarify I have never had a release bearing problem only a problem getting enough pressure against it. Everyone with the chirp problem knows with pressure against it (pressure on clutch pedal slightly) the noise goes away this isn't a bearing problem they don't heal themselves with more load.

 

Thanks for the reply . This is how you hack it out and come up with a proper fix .
Bring it on guys

Over the years , I have probably changed out 5000 clutches in many different vehicles . I have to say the Tacoma is by far one of the worst systems a trans mechanic can work with . Other mechanics on my transmission forums are also going through the same thing with these trucks using the factory parts . To this day , not much fixes the 6 complaints most common with this design .The trucks are coming back to my buds with a chirping bearing and customers are pissd . Apparently the 3rd gen got an upgrade with the RC62 6 speed . Hopefully they dont see the greif you guys are going through . I do not own a manual 6 speed Tacoma . I just have to repair them once in a Blue moon .
Is there really an upgraded master for these ? I dont think I have read about it .
The stiffer spring will always silence the chirping , but is that the real fix ? You are applying more pressure to the fingers of the pressure plate with a thinned face release bearing . Not only does this apply additional pressure to the release bearing , but it also creates additional heat that the bearing wasnt designed for .
Using the factory design , the bearing was intended to lightly touch the pressure plate . I think we all know this by now .

In your case I am wondering if someone mismatched your clutch release bearing ?
The aisn and the Luk use a different depth . You most likely know this ?

 

Gearcruncher-
I would love to be the guinea pig but, given the way things are right now, I'd have to pass. I have another vehicle, so you could have had it for weeks.

Damn!

 

After roughly 105,000 miles with the additional pressure (total mileage 217,000) the bearing flange hasn't shown any noticeable wear at last disassembly. The pressure plate fingers on the original pressure plate had significant wear but it chirped for most of its life before increasing the pressure for the last 50,000 miles of its life. The upgraded master cylinder is now metal bodied versus the original plastic body. I've had the AISIN height bearing against all of the clutches I've used. Remember all of the upgrades have added pressure (Taller ball, longer pushrod in slave, stiffer spring).

 

Thank you Jason .
I had no clue there was a master cylinder upgrade from plastic to metal . I hate to ask but you got a part number ?
I have never based my opinion on 1 truck but I can also see you have all kinds of background maintaining this style of clutch . I dont have all that experience with this clutch set up .
. I would be willing to involve you in making this clutch system better any day of the week .
Can you make any recommendations as to what you would improve to keep the release bearing from chirping , prevent the quill from wearing out , prevent the release bearing from busting through the pressure plate fingers , and prevent partial clutch apply ?
Not trying to be a jerk lol or put you on the spot but this transmission runs from 2005 -2015 . In my opinion , there is only 1 fix . Eliminate the release bearing constant contact and that should solve 5 out of the 6 issues with the clutch .
Looking forward to your opinion or for that matter , anyone who can contribute
We need to fix this junk .

 

there’s a guy on here that’s running a tilton hydro bearing on his second gen. he sent me some info on how he made it work.. gonna ride out this CM bearing till the wheels fall off then maybe give that a shot

 

I’d be interested in that info. Got a link? Include me in a PM maybe?

 

Went out to the truck this morning. Game over. Clutch pedal flopped to the floor as soon as I touched it and stayed there. Reservoir is empty. Truck is down.

Still zero response from ClutchMasters.

 

Well, I'm crossing CM off of my xmas card list.

 

Ok guys. I need your help.

Whoever has a CM kit that has not installed it, I need some measurements on the bearing itself. Need id and od and need to know the measurements between the two tiny points I've drawn on this bearing in the pic. See any numbers on the bearing at all? That would be super helpful as well.

 

Sorry. I missed this question.

They just sent me an Oring. Interestingly, It was of significantly different design than what came out of the bearing. I posted that up before. In this thread I believe.

 

I wouldn’t be surprised if you had a defective bearing/unit. Sucks CM won’t get back to you. I think you have said you emailed them but have you called?

 

Thinking of getting your own bearing made?

 

Something like that. Yeah.

 

Hey @gearcruncher

Got a reference for release bearings? A book full of different ones for different applications maybe?

 

Start here lol . feeling your pain
https://www.summitracing.com/search...niversal/yes/throwout-bearing-style/hydraulic

What are your plans ? I imagine you are sick of pulling the trans by now .
Possibly going back to factory with the updated master , updated ball ,and updated slave cylinder ? Look for a bearing that self centers
I wish I had your truck here in my shop for a week