3.4L supercharger

Damn dude...you're truck hauls!

Mine does this thing where if I turn O/D off the RPM's go up and hold for a second and then drop by about the same amount as your's drops...just a little.

I've never noticed it doing what your's does. It might do it but I haven't noticed/don't remember.

 

I've only hit redline maybe 3 or 4 times on my truck lol

 

I think it may be belt slip? I pulled out if front of someone flying once and had to give it all I had. Past that point it noticeably stops pulling as hard as it was.

I’m in the process of putting together a idler pulley for maximum belt wrap because I’m pretty sure I’m hearing it and feeling it. Hopefully I can finish this project before I lose interest like so many other things.

 

I think I hit my redline 3 times today

 

Hell yeah!

I’m sure you did! you lead foot you!

 

Gates belt?

 

The belt tensioners spring actually wears out over time


A fresh gates belt and a newer tensioner you should not have any slipping.

I have zero slipping with a 1.9 pulley.

BUT iBooks like the stalling is at 4000 rpms,

Belt slipping I would think would be above that rpm spot.

 

Do you have the electronic throttle body. If you do It might be the computer.

 

Unfortunately I do. I hate it. Only works without bugs in cooler weather.

 

Ive had more luck with Continental gator back belts. Ive had numerous gates belts and they all slipped more even with brand new tensioner.

 

One thing I don’t recall seeing on any of the supercharger threads is exhaust gas temps.

Are EGT’s something that should be monitored with a gauge with these superchargers?

 

Input supercharger temperature would be much more useful info,
Input before supercharger and after the supercharger going into intake

Summer temperatures, 100-130
Winter temperatures more like 80-90

 

Sure, input temps are super important. But what can you actually do about them other than water/meth injection?

I just found this write up on Gadget’s site about gauges. He discussed EGTs and monitoring them to be on the look out for a drop in temps which may indicate detonation
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Gauges.htm

 

You can run just water in the summer and a larger nozzle if one wants to reduce heat and you would know your results with different size nozzles instead of guessing.

If you're AFR is out of wack you get detonation =heat,

If you don't have a AFR gauge then your guessing and temps could rise..

I don't know what the benefits would be unless you don't have an AFR gauge.
Good AFR means no detonation or extra heat
Unless I'm missing something

 

That makes sense!

 

You can run a #1 nozzle that is very small or a
large nozzle #6 that's pretty large for water in the
summer to eliminate heat soaked supercharger iss.
Before I had ths methanol kit my supercharger
would run like a dog (much less power) in the summer.
Now I have zero heat soaked issues

 

Hey guys quick question. Im running a 1st gen (grey) charger with stock pulley, no fuel mods, and at WOT only getting about 4.4 pounds boost. I also just started to get a P0450 code (emission evap sensor). Could they be related and do I need to start chasing vac lines? I should be getting 5-6psi correct? Thanks for the help

 

If you have a vacuum leak depending where it’s at your boost could be lower,
You probably just have a vacuum leak.
Check the PCV valve and hose for leaking

 

I watched your video about 10 times and I can't find any issues with the parameters displayed that would cause that. You're way too high for the converter to come into play.
I reviewed my documents on the ECT and I think what you're experiencing is a delayed lock-up clutch. Your solenoid 3 might be getting slow.

 

Thanks for the comment! I don’t know shit about automatic transmissions but would you post what you’re referring to?

Honestly the last thing I want to do is drop a trans pan again. If I do all the solenoids are getting replaced.