Show me your shell!

Trying to find replacement lift arms for my Leer cap. These are the two arms that keep the window "up". No labels on the "lift force" OEM units. Anyone replace them and can provide info?

 

Mine is a framed back window. If you have a frame less I think the use 30lbs or something because the frameless window is heavier




Edit- these are what came factory on my Leer. About a year old

Edit- in case you can't read my pictures well it says 24lbs

 

Pop the strut off and measure the ball ends. Most likely 10mm. Then climb in the back, close the hatch, and measure the distance ball to ball. This will be the minimum compressed length you can use. Open it up then measure ball to ball and this will be the maximum of the current strut. If you find a longer extended length that still comes in shorter than the minimum compressed then it will still work. It will just open further.

The biggest hurdle is figuring out your lift rating if it is not marked unless someone chimes in. Google the ball size first. Then narrow it down with lengths compressed/extended, and lift rating.

 

Thanks for the info on the struts. On order. For my Leer 180 I went with the 10mm ball fittings, 35# lift, and 17" length.

Edit add: Got them in and installed. They fit & function fine.

 

35# seems like a lot to me. On my framed hatch I used a pair of non-OEM cheap replacement lift supports for a 2005 jeep liberty. I just went outside and looked at the lift rating on them and the markings are long gone but it was more than what the original Century pieces put out. I prefer to close it from the middle of the hatch now from fear of twisting the frame.

 

Here’s the strut on my Leer 100xr. They are 35 lb struts.

 

I've been thinking about getting the taller shell either the Leer 180 or the MX.
Have you noticed any reduction in fuel milage or wind noise due to the shell being higher than the cab?

 

considering I drove the truck off the lot to the topper install.... I haven't noticed any change. lol. id say what I average but I have the topper and a heavy drawer system so my numbers will be off. and majority of the driving ive done since owning it has been from my house to the gym. stop and go.

 

I’ve tracked my mpg before and after A.R.E. MX topper and had no decrease in gas mileage. I was expecting it, but nope—no difference. What did decrease my mpg’s was adding my Prinsu rack later. To keep prying eyes out of my topper I added 20% more tint on the windows. And to help rear sag when towing, I added a Toytec AAL.



My topper does not have a rack on top. It’s that Prinsu rack on top of cab that has decreased my mpg by about 2mpg. Best mpg’s is at 65mph. I’m set up for camping adventures and tow a NuCamp T@G XL teardrop camper.

 

bought used for $250 hence the mismatch colors, might not repaint it

 

Any chance you remember which ones you got off Amazon?

 

these

White LED Strip Lights, GuoTong...

GUOTONG White LED Strip Lights, Waterproof cuttable 300 SMD 2835 LED Tape, 6000K 12V 16.4ft/5m Flexible Ribbon, Kitchen Cabinet Lighting, Outdoor/Indoor (No Power Supply)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Awesome - thanks! Any chance you woulndn't mind listing the supplies/parts one would need to wire these in like you did? Or doing a write up?

 

Parts used
Lights:
White LED Strip Lights, GuoTong...

GUOTONG White LED Strip Lights, Waterproof cuttable 300 SMD 2835 LED Tape, 6000K 12V 16.4ft/5m Flexible Ribbon, Kitchen Cabinet Lighting, Outdoor/Indoor (No Power Supply)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

switch panel:
8 Gang Switch Panel, AKD Part...

$99 8 Gang Switch Panel, AKD Part Circuit Control Box Universal Switch Box Wiring Harness Touch Panel 8 On Off Button for Trucks Pickup SUV UTV Boat Wrangler Chevy GMC Ram

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SWJHVY5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

USB / 12v port added:
Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089M9GGWS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wire used for the usb / 12v:
Striveday 18 AWG 2 conductor wire...

$16 18 Gauge Wire, 2-Conductor Electrical Wire. 18 AWG Stranded Flexible PVC Tinned Copper 18/2 Cord Extension Cable is Used for LED Lamp Lighting, Automotive, Speaker, Audio, Power, etc. (33FT - 10M).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y332K8T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wire used fir the lights:
Striveday 18 AWG 4 conductor wire...

$22 18 Gauge Wire, 4-Conductor Electrical Wire. 18 AWG Stranded Flexible PVC Tinned Copper 18/4 Cord Extension Cable is Used for LED Lamp Lighting, Automotive, Speaker, Audio, Power, etc. (33FT - 10M).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y34QCDX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wire used for the the switch panel extension:
Striveday 22 AWG 4 conductor wire...

$16 22 Gauge Wire, 4-Conductor Electrical Wire. 22 AWG Stranded Flexible PVC Tinned Copper 22/4 Cord Extension Cable is Used for LED Lamp Lighting, Automotive, Speaker, Audio, Power, etc. (33FT - 10M).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y34HJH9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


How I did it:
Mounted the fuse panel in the engine bay. Took the 18gauge 2 strand wire and plugged them both into a positive terminal. Took the 18 gauge 4 strand and plugged all them into a positive terminal. Wrapped all of those together and ran them through the engine bay and down the frame rail to the bed. Drilled a hole in the bed rail where the switch panel is. Tan all this positive wires out that hole.

Cut the switch panel wires (since they weren’t long enough to reach from bed to engine bay). Re connected them / extended them with the 22 gauge wire I listed above. Ran that along the same route I did the other wires, plugged it into the plug in for the switch panel.

Mounted all the lights, switch panel, and usb dock. Connected each one to their respective positive terminal wire running from the engine bay. Wired in the ground wires and ran them all to a ground point under the bed (to avoid running those all the way to the fuse panel in the engine bay)

My switch panel has left lights, right lights, inside lights, rear lights, usb, and a 12v button. Which is why there are 6x 18 gauge wires running from the fuse panel to the bed. Buying the wire listed above makes it simple and keeps the wires nice and organized / shielded / easier to run under the truck.

sorry for such a vague write up. I don’t have the most time on my hands to snap pictures and do a detailed description.

edit: here’s a few pics from my completed panel / fuse block (these were both provided in the switch panel link above)

Also: by no means am i an electrician. Could I have done mine differently to be safer? Maybe. Idk. Lol. This is the third time I’ve wired a truck in this exact manner and haven’t had any issues. But again, I’m not responsible if your truck burns to the ground.

 

Love it man! Thanks for taking all the time to do that. Really appreciate it.

 

I just picked up a '21 SR short bed in MGM. Are 3rd gen caps pretty universal in that any 3rd gen should fit my '21? I have an ARE and a Leer dealer near me. Plan on stopping by both to get some quotes but I also want to start looking for used ones.

 

Yes

 

If you end up buying, both ARE and Leer have coupons on their web site for free shit or $$$'s off.

 

Thanks!

 

Snugtop Sport Hi-Liner