Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

That is weird. Mine is constantly backlit. I forget where I did the add a fuses , but I pretty sure I followed @Shellshock pic from way back. I have like 5 of his fuse panel pics saved on my phone. Lol

 

Not a switch pro but is very similar and a fraction of the price. I have had mine installed for 6 months and nothing has failed. It really just came down to what features I needed like making sure the electrical box was sealed with a gasket, 8 gang programmable switch style button pad, and programmable function like momentary, sos, and emergency flash options. I’m sure the switch pro is better but it does what I need and I saved a few hundred. The mounting plate I had to make FYI.

 

I ended up not doing the fuse route. I tapped the white wire with my side.arker light. And the trigger light blue wire with a thicker dark green wire ,driver side kickpannel. Like this guy did watch at 12:02 https://youtu.be/pIWOeJZ282M

 

Ahhh I gotcha makes sense

 

I saw that auxbeam makes one too, haven’t looked into the quality

 

Hooked up my SP today. I ran the light blue, white and pink wire into the cab. The light blue wire is hooked up to an ignition fuse under the dash. Is there a fuse to tap into under the dash for the white wire? I know it’s not the dome fuse. If not I will just pull the white wire back into the engine compartment.

 

If you get the DSIM T tap it will provide ignition switch and parking lights. Also dome neg trigger if you wanted that for your aux trigger. You order the T tap and one Y then cut off the ends of one of the Y and splice in. Or shove JST pins directly on the switchpros leads. That’s my plan for mine.

I haven’t bought the module itself yet, hoping I can trigger directly off the dome neg but we will see.

Also, if you have photos of how and where you went through the firewall Id love to see. I’m stalled out on punching through the jute. It’s rather tough.

 

I tapped all three wires in the engine bay fuse box.
Inj for ignition
Low beam for backlight
High beam for external trigger

Daveeasa
I was able to use the small grommet on the firewall for the switch harness and my in cab circuits. When it warms up I will try and post some pics.

 

Thanks! Yeah, I started attacking that guy, got the grommet over both my leads, then stalled out trying to get through the jute into the cab. If I could see roughly where it exits that would help me out, haven't stumbled on a photo. You'd probably need some light to get a picture as it's real dark under there. I have a clutch pedal so it makes the space extra tight. TIA

 

Can anyone confirm that the ARB single can be wired to the SP as such:


I don't want to fool around with their wiring harness or using a relay since I don't plan on using lockers or their included switch. The single draws 32a at max load, so it should be fine on switches 4-8 since they are rated for 35a.

 

Arb relay should go to battery direct then run red/yellow with diode to switch pro

 

I’m not using the arb harness or relay. The SwitchPros is a relay so there is no need for a second external one.

 

I believe the relay is used to keep the load of the compressor from going thru the pressure switch. How are you handling the on/pressure?

david here is where the wires pop thru

 

SearArtist - the NO LOAD current of the CKMA12 is 14.2A, FULL LOAD is 32A. I would suspect that pressure switch isnt rated for 32A of current.

https://www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/6-07.pdf

 

yeah you're right. I just looked at the pressure switch and it has 5A stamped on it. damnit, was hoping to not need to run a relay. oh well...

 

Getting a pic is going to be tough until after Christmas due to my work hours. But if you go to page 3, post #56 of this thread, thats the exact place I ran my wires through. That rubber grommet has a large nipple on it so I turned it inside out, cut that nipple off, then drilled a hole through the remaining rubber and pushed the plug right through. Hardest part was getting the plug through. Hope this helps.

 

I've noticed when people take pictures of their panels, all 8 spots are lit up. Is it possible to disable the backlighting for unpopulated switches?

 

At a bare minimum there are black blank stickers in the kit that can block out the unused buttons.

 

i was just lazy and didnt put the blackouts on mine