5 tire rotation - Are onto this?

Again, not if on day one you go 5 and run the truck over 200k (roughly 4 tire ‘life cycles’)

Run your spreadsheet with 4 tires

and

run your spreadsheet to



...times 5 (trucks)

let’s assume $150/tire and $100 for each trip to the shop in both scenarios.

-total miles
-total dollars

 

Also - on these our 'donutty' tires, the risk of damage due to lack of awareness of a leak is definitely not the same as with Low profile tires, or run flat tires... the TPMS is not such a critical tool...

Surely, the loss of a few pounds will be much noticeable - with very low risk of damage from running a tire flat while being unaware that it is leaking air...

You also will not rely on the TPMS to tell you that you've popped a bead on the trail....

 

It won't. I've done the calculations and even if you don't have to buy a new wheel it still works out the same.
Buy 4 tires at $200 @50K miles = $800 and still have new spare.
Buy 5 tires at $200 @60K miles = $1000 and a worn out spare.
Sure, you get 10K more miles rotating in the spare but you spent $200 more.

The only reason to rotate spare in is if you drive less than 8K a year because tire shelf life comes into play. Anything over 10K and it's a waste.

 

if rubber is rubber, how is it a ‘waste’..?

ETA: what’s 8K have to do with the price of eggs in Oregon? If your never gonna rotate it in, it’s shelf life is irrelevant, other than you are bound to exceed the shelf life of the spare you will never use... and hopefully never need.

 

Because you will wear out the tire before it ages out. Tires do not have an infinite shelf life, even out of the sunlight.
On the high mileage vehicles I have had, the most economical method is, assuming max of 50K miles
Pick a tire you like and will run multiple times.
Rotate using four tire rotation.
After the 5th rotation, go buy four new tires.
NOW rotate in the spare and take a new one and stick under the truck. This will keep the spare from aging out.

For example, I drive 30K a year on average. I buy new tires every two years. In six years I buy three sets regardless so rotating in a 5th does not save any money.
But, everyone has their own logic and I won't run a tire to the wear bars no matter what. I have hydroplaned twice in my 58 years and it is a truly scary experience to have zero control.

 

Which is the same thing I’m doing, but.......


you’re just using up your four runners THEN bringing #5 down for the next cycle, however....

as I understood it this was not the original scenario ( just leave #5 chained to the transom to rot )

but hey, you do you, and I’ll keep rotating the 24 tires in my garage (counting the snowblower) like a chimp on crack....

 

50k life on 4 tire rotation would actually net closer to around 75k life on 5 tires rotation. So by your math and my mileage:

150k miles on 4 tire rotations = $2400 spent on three sets of tires.

150k miles on 5 tire rotations = $2000 spent on two sets of tires.


Don’t hold me to this being accurate, like at all.

edit: 50k mile on 4 tires * 25% more would be 62.5k miles on 5 tires. You’d have to stretch out the mileage a bit more to see a break even number.

 

Yup. My 14 year old Taco still has its original spare. The only time it came down was 5 years ago when the frame got replaced.

 

I do 5 and let discount rotate. They reprogram the sensor each time. That way in a pinch I don’t have to worry about I different wheel or tire. If I were to destroy one, I don’t have to worry about trying to find a replacement and/or a new wheel looking different than the others. I little bit more for peace of mind.

 

All I’m saying is your 5th tire is “free” and you get 25% more miles per set, not 20% more like you said. Them’s facts (and works more in your favor). How it applies to your use case is up to you to figure out. Most people aren’t operating a fleet of 5 trucks...

 

When I got 265/70 wildpeaks and the older gen Pro wheels (Sema/4 runner) wheels I got a complete setup for a spare as well. 5 tire rotation for me.

 

Not sure if thats true, I know you have an 18, but my 19 limited that I bought with 2 miles on it came with a matching Michelin tire in the exact same size and an aluminum Limited wheel, thats either painted or powdercoated black rather than polished. Either you have a different hanger, or you got bad info.

 

You really think we're all on here discussing tire rotation strategies, trying to maximize the miles for our dollar, debating what oil to use in our trucks that we would just go and let the spare rot? Nobody is letting their spare rot. You rotate that shit in when you buy four new tires.

Yes, you're very clever. You come out ahead by fucking the next guy that buys a truck with no spare.

 

I was wondering if the spare even had a TPMS .. Should I assume it does? (2020)

 

Geez, then I guess I really fucked over the dealer that gave me $5K for the one with no spare, no tailgate, no rear bumper, no carpet, a cracked windshield, cracked tail light and busted air conditioner.


I think I’ll go write a check and mail it to him...

 

Gotta' keep in mind that 4x4 is not AWD. AWD (Like my wife's Forester) it's pretty critical that all 4 tires are the same size (Overall dimension) unless you wanna damage the drive-train. You've got power going to all four wheels 24-7. It's like .. (Like it or not) if you have, say a blow-out, on one tire of an AWD ... A reputable tire shop would not just replace your one tire with a new one, while the other 3 have say, 30K on them. And it's not a sales gimmick for you to buy all new tires.. It's just that you can't have an odd-ball size tire (New, larger) and it putting a real strain on the drive-train that only will work properly as it should with 'All Things Being Equal'...
4x4 .. At best is really only 3WD. Normally, you have power going to one rear wheel and power going to one front wheel. If you have a 'Posi or sure-grip rear end' or a locker rear end, then you have power going to both rear wheels.. and still only power going to one front wheel (Unless there is some new innovation about the front that I don't know about yet..)
Anyway, on a 'normal' 4x4, usually open-differentials on both ..You can run odd-diameter tires and breath easy. You won't blow anything up.

 

It does not. I purchased aftermarket.

 

Gotcha' ... Thank you.

 

LOL! I still have an 'analog' gauge I got from my grandfather ... 50's ... Made in Germany. I swear to Gawd, this is still accurate to within 1/2 lb. It's still my 'go-to' gauge when I check things. So 60-something years and still dead-on...
I've told my son (Repeatedly) to not trust the MIC crap (Analog/digital) gauges you buy from Autozone. No matter what the cost.
I think he's waiting for me to croak-out and get his hands on my gauge... LOL!!!