DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

Like the two previous said...it depends on what you plan to carry.

I've only taken the leafs off once to carry a table and 4 chairs. Everything else has been able to slide inside or be carried on top.

It's fairly versatile since you can disconnect the shocks and fold the leaf back 180 degrees. I've done that before for a box that was odd shaped and just strapped the leaf down but left it connected to the hinges.

As I recently posted, I plan to put plywood on top now when coming from HD or Lowe's. instead of inside the bed with the tailgate down.

It's a pricey tonneau, but I've found more reasons to have it than not. It's soooo functional and looks good to boot.

 

I strap a lot of stuff on top, especially 4X8 sheets of plywood, etc. I use a couple of pool noodles under the wood to protect the top. Does anyone know of some tie down tracks that are as tall as the latches? I think they need to be at least 1.25" tall.

 

I am getting ready to start a project that will essentially be a modular rack system built from 80/20 that will mount to the Diamondback and serve my main needs which are:

1. carrying 4x8 sheets of plywood.
2. carrying surfboards
3. carrying dive equipment

The base of this system will consist of 15-series 80/20 which is 1.5" tall - allowing for clearance over the hinges and locks.

I'll post more info and a video of the build once I get going...

 

This is a sort of rough draft of where I'm headed. The idea is that 80/20 base pieces (made from 15-series) will be bolted down to the Diamondback. This will require drilling obviously, but I ain't scared... They will serve two functions:

1. They can be used on their own as a sort of skid that allows you to slide materials onto the bed cover - clearing the hinge hardware, locks, etc...

2. They can be used in conjunction with 80/20 crossbars (same size as prinsu, etc...) mounted on top - allowing you to mount any of the accessories used on standard roof top racks to mount things like surf boards, bikes, tents, gear boxes, baskets, whatever... Since they are located by the 80/20 below, they are infinitely adjustable.

Right now, I'm mainly working on aesthetics. I can get the 80/20 anodized in black and that should look fine, but I'm more worried about end caps and making it all look clean and professional.

 

Great idea. I'm really interested in what you come up with.

 

I’m waiting for my cover to come, either tomorrow or the next day. I’ve been going back and forth in my mind about how I should mount load bars, track or no track. My latest thought is that I should use tracks, mainly because if I want to take off the bars and get the panels to fully flip open. But if I direct mounted the load bars the bases themselves would be to high?

 

Just the opposite, I store a bunch of equipment in the bed so having the cover allows me to load stuff on top when I run to the hardware store.

 

Same

 

Are those battery powered?

 

Plugged into the AC outlet.

 

Ah, therein lies the problem. Don't gots me one of those.

 

Excellent idea dude, keep us posted on progress.

 

What's the height from the cover to the top of the bars? I run an ikamper on a bed rack currently and because the top of the tent sits a couple inches above the cab I can strap my wife's paddleboard to the top of the tent and don't need a cab rack. Trying to figure out if the same would be possible with this setup.

 

All measurements are +/- 1/16"...
Height from the cover to the top of the bars: 7 3/4"
Thickness of the bars: ~3/4"
Height from the cover to the bottom of the bars: 7"
Height from the rear locking latch to the top of the bars: 6 1/2"
Height from the rear locking latch to the bottom of the bars: 5 3/4"

Hope that helps.

 

it does, thanks a bunch!

 

I had my rack built with that in mind. I can convert it to just about anything I need for the job I need. I have up to 4 useable cross bars that are level with each other can handle over 1,600 lbs. A little overkill for our trucks but I can attach it to a larger trucks so long as it has a diamond back system.

 

I’m also working on a custom 8020 / aluminum extrusion modular system. What’s cool about extrusions is that they can adapt to so many uses.

I don’t want to mount the 15 series profiles directly to my cover. My plan is to fabricate adapters that will connect to the same spot as the anchor mounts, just like the system a few posts back.

First use will be mounting a RTT to the rear panel only so that the cab panel can still open. I ordered a coupla extra brackets from DB to secure the rear panel. Eventually, I’ll add gas springs so that I can loosen some bolts, elevate the cross members, and tighten it down again. The elevated position will be better with an annex. Lower position better for gas mileage.

 

I love my Diamondback. The only thing I don't like about it is that when it rains I get a good bit of water in the bed. I have even run extra weather stripping along the bed rail and plugged the holes at the front rail, but it still happens.

 

Update: for those that are interested in getting a rack system, cross bar system, or brackets for their diamondback cover like mine, I have talked to the owner of Chasis Unlimited in livermore CA to have more produced, he will work with everyone on they system they want they just need to email him so he can see what version they are looking for. Hit up Bart@chassisunlimited.com and tell him “Mo” sent you he will hook you up with what you are looking for.

 

Do you think it would be possible to have the full system, but with the center section removed, and still allow the diamondback to open up fully? That is, with the older and shorter gas springs that is.