Recommendations for buying an enclosed trailer

EDIT: It DEPENDS on how much actual weight you're pulling. Over 5000, yes. Also, not all WD hitches allow you to back up while hooked up. IIRC, the Equalizer can remain attached while backing up and one of the reasons I chose it.

Not needed for a utility trailer as you completely control the balance of the trailer while loading. You want everything as forward as possible with the heaviest stuff over or just in front of the axles, the lightest stuff behind that and as much weight you can reasonably put on the truck hitch. 300+#s. Especially if you get a dual axle setup. I don't think I've ever seen a utility trailer with a WD hitch installed in use. RVs are weird and their weights distribution is difficult to control. Add in sloshing water tanks and extreme weights and you need some big bandaids to pull. That's what a WD hitch is, a bandaid for a bigger problem. IMO.

I'd go Airbags over WD hitch but I can't seeing a WD hitch hurting anything except your wallet. Just so you know, those bars hold an EXTREME amount of energy when installed properly and in use. They are no fun to hitch up, make a lot of noise, and a good one is expensive. I've run one, Equalizer brand, on a toy hauler behind a Cummins 2500. Wouldn't pull that w/o one. In fact I did once, not good. Trailer sway started running South down I-25 right at 36.

I've NEVER had an issue pulling the above shown utility trailer, never to capacity, and a 13' travel trailer using just airbags. Moab and back, Steamboat Springs and back, Ogallala and back, etc. So lots of up and down and speed.

This is Rampart Range below. It's a tight fit between some rocks to get here.

 

Gotcha. One of the reasons that I am hesitant to install airbags is that I hardly ever tow things with my personal truck (but I have a Ram 1500 that I use for work which requires me to tow once in a while). I got the Tacoma for it's off road capabilities.

Even though the wdh is a bit of a band aid, I think that's all I'm looking for at the moment. It would be a different story if I towed things on a regular basis. The trailer that I'm looking at is about 2,300lbs, and I'm guessing that I'll end up with a couple thousand more pounds loaded into it. So most likely above or near that 5,000lbs number you mentioned.

I'm looking at this hitch set up for $265 -

$326 Camco Eaz-Lift Elite 1000lb Weight Distributing Hitch Kit with Sway Control (48058) for Trailer, Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SB6S3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XrrZFbEAXS1HT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.

According to the reviews and questions, it allows for backing up as well. It looks like it'll be loud and probably inconvenient at times, but after the non-stop week of driving up to AK, I don't plan on using the hitch again... Until the possible drive back years from now. That being said, it's a 3,000 mile drive with a pretty heavy trailer, so I'm willing to spend some money on the hitch or airbags to ensure a more comfortable, safe drive.

 

I have run a Equalizer WDH for 3 years on my 3,200 LBS travel trailer with no issues. Granted getting up to continental divide is at best 50mph but that's an engine/ gearing issue.

 

Since I know you all were just dying to know how things turned out... I found a 7'x16', 2013 Haulmark Transport at a dealer in Utah. I live in NW Colorado, so it was just as close as driving to the front range.

The trailer sure as shit wasn't cheap for something that's 7 years old, but it's in great condition, and the Transport model is a step up from the Passport model. Sticker price was $3,900 ($4,300 with taxes and fees).

The cheapest new Passport model I could find within a long day's drive was $5,200. And in CO, most Passports were closer to $6,500.

So I'm feeling pretty good about it, and I can probably sell it for more than I bought it for once I'm in Anchorage.

I have a brake controller, wiring harness, weight distributing hitch, and some new ditch lights (for the long lonesome nights driving in northern Canada) on the way. Anything else you think I should buy/prepare/plan for?

 

Everything I have heard is once the snow hits the ground- Never drive the ALCAN at night.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Luckily, I'll be with one other vehicle, and we plan on driving between the hours of 5am - 5pm. So it'll mostly be dark, early mornings until the sun rises at 10am or so.

 

sounds like an adventure! Good luck

 

I’d recommend some extra fuel (5-10 gallons). I’ve got a similar trailer (7x14 haulmark aluminum). I’ve gotten anywhere from 15 down to as low as 7 MPG towing. I’ve averaged 10 with my 16 AT and 12-14 with my 17 MT tacoma.

 

Hope you are researching this, in Winter most of the businesses are close down for the season and very limited accommodations to over night in. Talking to neighbor right after you posted this who sent a bunch of years up there.

• don't make reservations because you never know how far you will make it each day. Road can be closed for days, and sometime "weeks" do to weather. He mentioned one specific section(s) that is the worst but I don't recall the name.
• Call ahead to confirm a motel, etc is actually open.
• Bring extra blankets or supplemental heat (Vehicle generated heat will not be enough some days)
• and you need, I think its called, a "engine block heater" all the rest stops have plugins so your oil, etc doesn't freeze (over night).

Edit: Oh he mentioned some guide and website for Traveling on ALCAN, maybe "milepost" or something like that.

 

Yeah, I quickly discovered that trying to keep up with traffic on the freeway is terrible for mpgs. Even though the truck handled quite well, I got 8 mpgs on the drive home from picking up the trailer. I was in a rush at the time, but I'll take my time once the trailer is loaded, max speeds of 55 - 60 mph.

I plan on taking 10 extra gallons, just to be sure.

 

Yep, I'm looking into the milepost, and due to the pandemic, we're only allowed to take certain routes and stay in certain locations. I need to get clarification on it all still, but I plan to call "Canada" a couple of times to make sure that we follow proper protocol and stay at the right places.

I don't plan to install a block heater since I won't need it in Anchorage (Anchorage is slightly more mild due to being on the ocean/bay), but between the two vehicles, jumper cables, and a battery booster; I'm confident that we'll get the vehicles started each day on the drive up.

And I appreciate the feedback. I'm taking the drive very seriously, especially since I'll be driving a fully loaded trailer with a mid sized truck. I don't even want to think about how difficult it will be if I get stuck in remote northern Canada. I'll be as prepared as I can be, but something can always go wrong.

 

Was that empty?

 

Yes, it was, but I was going 70 - 75 mph from near Green River, UT to Meeker, CO. So the route was almost exclusively uphill with an elevation ranging from 4,000 to 8,000 ft. Plus the wind was strong and gusty as shit the whole way... In a snow storm.

Even with it fully loaded, I think I'll probably get closer to 10 mpg if I keep it closer to 55 - 60 mph. Plus most of the route is several thousand feet lower in elevation.

Even with the terrible mpgs, it's BY FAR the cheapest option for moving to AK.