Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

the wife’s grandparents ranch is up for sale, and I just recently got these to add to my collection, the blade is a bit small for my tractor, but it will still work. I’m most excited about getting the PHD, that will definitely help out.

 

Y’all are only seeing part of the basement hahaha

We had the house built (modular) five years ago. I’ve accumulated a LOT of stuff from all the projects. There’s a lot that I can clean out.

Scott- a PHD is on my list as well, but I’m going to end up building a hydraulic unit.

 

That’s ok, hoarders gotta hoard!

 

Truth!

"I might need that one day..."

 

Brother joe runs 2 2005 bx 2230’s and both run flawless and do whatever we ask them to do... both have 60” decks, one has the loader attachment and the other will run the snow blower. One had 500 hours and the other 800 He bought his second one for $8600 with the mower and load attachments. Something I would look into unless you want new... buddy of mine has the bx 25 which is the newer model of the bx2360 . Either way is a great option... depends how much you want to spend. Any other ?’s don’t be afraid to Shoot me a message. Note: brother joe works at a kubota store selling commercial kubota’s.

 

Here are some pix

 

yeah, an offset hydraulic augers are great, helped a friend a few months ago with some trees that toppled a few fence sections, his neighbor came over with a home built one and knocked out 6 holes for us in 20mins, that was a few hours of sweat saved.

 

The CP4.2 issues are hit or miss. My dads 2016 LML has almost 5,000 engine hours on the stock fuel setup with no issues. There’s a man on YouTube with a 2015 (I think) that hauls campers for a living, he has more than 500,000 miles and I think like 11,000 engine hours on his LML with no issues. It’ll cost you about $10,000 if it happens to you though. The GM trucks are worse about doing it than the Rams or Fords it seems. The GM trucks are the only one that doesn’t have a lift pump, which is theorized to contribute to the problem. I’ve seen and heard about plenty (but probably less than GM) of CP4 failures on the Ford and Ram trucks too though. The best thing you can do is keep your tank full, at least above half and keep your fuel filter changed as recommended or earlier. I’ve seen them fail at really low mileage and I’ve seen them go forever(with and without a lift pump)... I’ve about come to the conclusion that if a CP4 is destined to fail, there’s not much you can do to prevent it.
Here’s a million mile (almost 20,000 engine hours) LML with the original CP4, no lift pump as far as I can tell. Link
Also the other truck with 500k miles:

 

Thanks guys, appreciated the info.

 

Good to know, if I buy used it will still have to have some warranty left.

I did learn that a F350 vs F350 cab chassis have different frames and length, something I didn’t know. The Ford guy told me that F350 chassis has a heavier duty rear compared a F350 with truck bed, I didn’t get a chance to compare myself or take pictures. Also according to a salesman that sells the 9’ and 11’ flatbeds, the flatbeds for the chassis truck is cheaper and better mount points to the frame.

 

Gotta love the older bxs, nice looking tractors

 

Hydraulic gives the ability to back the auger out if you get it stuck real good. In my type of soil (clay with large rocks) it's pretty much a necessity. Also, since I'll be making it for the mini skid steer I posted earlier I'll have down-pressure too. Should be a fun little project!

Edit:

Posted this on TBN (TractorByNet), figured I'd drop it in here, too. Plans for the LJ500 this winter since it's now cozy in my basement.

I don't plan on a full restoration, at least not this winter. I need to get each failed or failing part rebuilt back to good operating condition. He's definitely comfy in the semi-heated basement. Coldest it gets down there is around 58* or so. It allows me to keep my motivation up, too. All my tools are currently down there right next to the LJ500. I'm going to grab some Harbor Freight dollies and jack it up onto them so I can move it around without starting it.

The list for winter that I can think of off the top of my head:

- Grind out and weld the two cracks on the rear upright/support area
- Repack the bucket curl cylinder (already did the lift cylinder)
- Drain the hydraulic oil and refill it with the specified 10w30 motor oil
- Motor oil drain/refill
- Tighten the slack on the chain drives off the hydraulic motors
- Fabricobble a proper battery mount system so it's not just sliding around in the belly pan
- Maybe tighten up some of the linkages
- Build an exhaust heat shield to prevent my curious nearly 2yr old pitbull from trying to sniff or lick the exhaust (lol, dumb dog is actually way smarter than that!)
- Add some lights, though with LEDs I'll likely need to incorporate a rectifier bridge to clean up the juice enough for the LEDs not to flicker. (will probably do to my snowblower first)
- Bend back one of the pallet forks, someone lifted too much weight with it and it's a royal pain to mount/remove. Worst case I'll just grind some off the mounting surface


That's way more than I thought I'd be doing this winter, that's the first time I put this list "on paper."

 

Love a good snow event. 10”.

 

I just set up one of these snow blowers on a 4 series tractor

 

They move a lot of snow quickly.

 

Helped dig out grandma and dad this afternoon... the gravely can only do so much on the hill part of the driveway... I brought my blower and did the hill... 2 big redtails were flying around right above us... awesome sight

 

I had 30", this old MTD didn't do it quickly (took 5 hours) but it did get it done. Did me in too, I'm beat.