Oil filter drain plug question.

I've never had an oil change go any other way..
I go in with a roll of paper towels, and consider it a success if I come out with half a roll. LOL

 

Hmm, lol. I’m in the middle of a por-15 underbody paint job as well.. would it be better to do this after the paint has cured, since I’ve got things nice and degreased or get in there beforehand?

You guys make sound like its gonna be WW3 in there with this thing. Done plenty of oil changes on cummins (typically canisters orientate horizontal or upside down). Certainly takes a learning curve on the messes, though.

 

nope! did mine last week. took about 15 minutes, and 10 of that was waiting on the oil to drain.

 

Copy, thanks for the info. I just went ahead and ordered a 3-pack of filters that has the drain plugs.

Maybe a bastard snatched it out the box I bought initially, or maybe there’s a difference between OEM parts YZZA6 and YZZA1 that A6 doesn’t have the plastic drain plugs.

 

It wouldn't make a whole lot of difference either way. If you did the oil change first, hitting the area with some brake cleaner would make for a quick cleanup. (if it was needed at all) Good call on the POR, BTW. GREAT stuff.

Wish the Tacoma had the upside down cannister setup. That said I don't bother with the drain thingy, and it usually gets messy one way or the other.
Forgot to open the air vent on my drain pan last go round and ended up with at least a quart on the garage floor before I realized what was going on.

 

With the lil plug and a standard valve, u can basically do it with one shop rag lol.

 

I dont think the 04152-yzza6 is for the Tacoma.

 

I swear, somehow I'm subconsciously unsatisfied if I don't turn an oil change into a mess.

Last oil change on my F-150 the screw on filter can I was removing, unbeknownst to me left it's o-ring stuck to the block. When I installed the new one it didn't take too kindly to be doubled up and sprayed the better part of four quarts all over the engine compartment in a matter of seconds.

Didn't even surprise me. It's how oil changes go for me. lol

 

May be for the four banger.

 

I have such an aversion to oil so I'm super OCD with spilling it etc

 

Thanks.. waiting on humidity to drop some before painting. Guess I could start the mess now!

Care to elaborate? I’ve not heard of the air vent. Something like the fill/drain for the diff?

 

Oh, drain pan... read that wrong hah @jmneill

 

Yea, historically my drain pans simply had a wide enough hole in the top that they could handle the oil as fast as it would drain. My most recent pan has a smaller diameter hole (presumably to keep from losing shit down it) but it necessitates the use of an air vent, unfortunately.

 

Might need a screwdriver (carefully) or plastic pry bar. The drain plug on my mine was very tight from the factory (turning the plug caused the whole filter cap to turn), so I've been just removing the whole filter cap. My front skid doesn't have an access door, so I have to pull the skid anyway, which then leaves a huge unobstructed area under the filter.

I prefill it in hopes there will be less oil starvation on the first startup, though I don't think most professional shops bother. There will be enough residual oil on the threads that you probably don't need more lube on the O-ring.

IMO end of the day, the biggest nuisance is the dipstick which is difficult to read.

 

I just did the first oil change on my Taco three nights ago. It took me an hour, four shop rags and a pair of Nitrile gloves. Really not that bad. I would have been faster but drain plug O-Ring was stuck to the pan and to get it off I had to pull both skid plates. Plus it was my first time under the truck so I was looking around and taking my time. Speed will come with time.

Quickest four-wheeled vehicle for me to do myself is my T100, 15 Mins but I have lots of practice since I’ve been doing oil changes on it since ‘95 Messiest is my Silverado; the oil drain plug is horizontal and up high so no matter where I put the drain pan it either misses or splashes all over. Still typically takes me less than 30 mins to change it myself.

 

The Toyota drain plug gasket almost always get stuck to the pan. I've been using Dorman 12mm / 1/2" copper drain plug gaskets P/N 65271 for the past couple of years with good results. It's widely available at most auto parts stores. If the store clerk needs to search for it by vehicle, tell them it's for a 1979 Jeep CJ.

 

That’s a great tip, thank you!

 

Roger that. Super clean oil now. So unsure if on dipstick its past the full mark or just oil climbing up it a little. If anything, my jug measurements say I may have put 6.5 qt including what I put into the filter before re-installing.

Also, the filter drain plug.. I snugged it up, but then thought I’d check it on the 10 ft/lb torque and it turned past snug and went loose again. So I just found the point where it stayed snug and left it as is. Hmm...

Also, wouldn’t consider this a mess, considering the task:

 

I guess a follow up experience/question.. I saw someone post a picture of the drain plug being set at an angle to keep it in there? Nothing really seemed to work on keeping it in, so I just loosened the filter housing with the tool until I seen a little oil seep out the sides. Then got the tools off and turned the last turn by hand, quick flipping it over into the pan. No real mess there.

The spillage came from that darn drain pan. You gotta have it angled up nicely for it to run towards the drain hole and fiddling with the plastic drain plug thing I just HAD to have, lol

 

Before you actually pull out the filter base. Leave itup there just tilt the base so some oil comes out. I've never taken that cap off. Never spilled a drop unless in my catch pan.i have two of these trucks so I've done enough oil changes