6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Part number 31230-60190. It comes from the V6 200 Series Land Cruiser. Looks much like the stock bearing, larger OD 76mm where it presses on the fingers, ID 38mm x 44mm L. Overall length is 64mm.

 

I believe this bearing may have some self aligning capabilities. The bearing is crimped into a housing with a wave spring behind it. This appears to allow it to float...


Dissected....

 

It does move. This bearing was a NTO... maybe 1 mile of driving, the movement can also be seen on the rub/wear mark inside the hub.

 

So @BillDaCat8 on the bearings you are exploring, is your goal here to retain the oe style fork actuation or use a piston style like CM, tilton, etc ?

 

@BillDaCat8 apologies if my pics are clogging up your post. Say the word and I'll remove em.

 

What’s been upgraded in reference to the 2015 transmissions? I have a 2015, and am curious. I’ve been watching these throw out bearing threads since mines a 6spd.

 

This is one of the types that I’ve been looking at. The one you’ve got there however is a bit too tall. I’m looking at another number 31230-36170 (aka 68scrn43A) that’s significantly shorter. Trouble is that it’s not for a USDM application. Hard to get your paws on.

 

Not at all man. I need the help to find the Goldilocks bearing. I appreciate the help.

I started this thread because this situation sucks. Nobody has come up with a solid solution yet. Which is bullshit. I intend to set up my truck with a bulletproo.., er, let’s say “bullet-resistant” release bearing. I’m prepared to scour the earth for the mutha.

 

Two-ish options.

My initial and fave idea is to move to a similar setup using a more reputable brand. Tilton. I’ve been in contact with them and they’ve been fairly helpful. In fact they just sent me some measurements this afternoon for the three piston options I have to play with. Now, I need to find that magic bearing that’ll work with one of them.

I’m also toying with the idea of springing it to pull it off the clutch when the pedal is up.




This idea would likely require a master cylinder diameter change. Which, doesn’t scare me. I’d simply substitute in a Tilton 5/8” cylinder and make the necessary bracketry.

Alternatively, I may go back to the lever setup. But, again, the change I will make will be that the bearing will only ride on the fingers of the pressure plate when the pedal is pressed. This too will likely require a master cylinder diameter change.

EDIT: This whole post was basically just me thinking out loud. Most of this was not implemented.

 

That’s my intent. I reserved a few posts at the top so that I can move things around and provide info in one easy place instead of all over the dang thread.

 

Ok.

Here’s the three pistons we have to play with. Remember, the goal is a bearing (preferably self-aligning) with an id suitable for one of these and the other end suitable for our clutch. 68-ish mm contact circle, radius face. Oh, and low profile too. Under 1” would be best.

I know, I know... in to mm. Ugh. Use this.


Right side of each drawing is the bearing end btw...

 

Do you require a 35mm bore to ride on the input snout? Or will the 38mm work for you?

I'm installing the pilot bearing on my RC transmission. It will take some load off the input shaft bearing, especially when the clutch is disengaged and also as it begins to engage.

Have you looked at the Aisin Porsche transmission yet?

 

The preferred piston would need a bearing with a 40mm (1.5748") bore.

The other option would need a bearing with a 2" (50.8mm) bore

 

Porsche trans?

 

Aisin SP6 shares architecture with our RA/RC. A little info in my RC60F swap thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hilux-rc60f-transmission-swap.629019/page-6#post-24150042

 

Ok. So, I’ve found a bearing I’m liking. Should work perfectly with the Tilton 2” piston.



Cool points. I get to tell people that it’s a Supra part. Chicks dig that. Anyway... it’s a tad bigger than the 68mm diameter contact point of the stock bearing. Which, I don’t believe to be an issue. It’s not a self-centering bearing either. But, with a hydro bearing like this, I’m questioning if it’s really necessary. Everyone, I’d like you to meet 90903-63001.

 

Is that bearing made to be loaded in that direction? I've wondered in the past if the whole thing could be utilized like the Supra and Lexus IS, but flipped over for push... the finger length would need to be just right.

 

You and I think alike. I asked that very same question too. I intend to research the bearing itself to find out.



Holding it and looking carefully at it. It sure seems as though it’d work either way. Everything is symmetrical with the exception of the lip.

 

Excellent! Nice work.

 

So we trash the CM parts completely and move to this and a Tilton piston?