Flatbed,35’s and Mainly Parked For Repairs

I went on a scale a couple weeks ago and it put me close to 7000lbs. However I was very skeptical of that. Once my truck is driving I will be going to the scales and seeing what I can do to lighten it up.

 

The next time there is a meet ill remember to post up if everyone can stop in at the scales b4 and we can compare. 7k is way to much.
I think that is wrong.

 

I thought so as well. Regardless, items are going that are not needed or are not used day to day on the road (air tank, tool boxes that are not necessary, awning). Have to go through some redundancies I have like two air compressors and what not. Just have to clean up.

 

for future....

-All balls 19-1010 u joint
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-lower-steering-shaft-rebuild-diy.543377/
OR
get a whole new intermediate shaft.....

45203-04021 Lower Steering Shaft Steering Column For Tacoma 4WD 2005-2015

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07W4V4GMY...colid=E7H62LEUGWQO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-Energy suspension bushings for rack-->8.10106G
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/
Steering rack......
OEM or aftermarket......

 

So little update in here

The front diff housing had to be completely replaced. Standard auto wreckers is a great scrap yard to deal with. Got a fj cruiser front diff.
how it arrived


Breaking it down


Painted and cleaned up since what the heck.

I then brought it to have the gears and lockers put in.
the locker had to be rebuilt and the gears were replaced. At this time I also opted t get a solid spacer for the yolk. Now it doesn’t need to be torqued specifically with a crush washer

diff assembled with new ADD


While the truck was down I added some solid cams from poly performance.


In the picture above you can see how I was moving my truck around while the diff was out. Used the broken cv and my old spare to make “unlocked hubs”. These are good to have in case I need to just get off the trail quick. Just pop it in with the wheel off. Also the other side of the cv will plug the diff.

Next few things for the truck that I’m waiting on are limit straps, shocks, upper control arms, rebuilt LCA. Will be in the spring though as it is too cold now and working in the driveway sucks.

currently the truck is up and running though which is awesome. No off-roading until the shocks come in. Just have to do some gear oil changes and that’s pretty much it for 2020.

some updated pics. The truck has already started it’s diet.


this diet includes cap off for normal day to day use and weekend trips (longer trips it will be back on). new winch with synthetic line.

 

And the work continues.
Got these lowers from @Manfred when we changed out his front end. Since he got a killer deal on a new set of lowers, he was nice enough to give me his old ones.

Currently rebuilding them. Just got the bushings out tonight. Have a bit more welding to do, clean up the steel prior to putting in some white line bushings and new ball joints.



support minion!
I welded a little piece of steel that will be taking most of the impact nothing crazy (1/16th).

hope is to beef up a spot on the lowers for a limit strap too. Will wait till they are mounted to figure that out.

 

You like to remind me on that deal I got. I'm just glad you were able to not be defeated by the LCA bushings

 

Lol I do because you would be the one fighting with bushings right now instead of me. I told you, if you didn’t buy them I would. Lol

 

Sweet build you’ve got.
Quick question how’s the Poly performance solid cams working for ya?I’ve been eyeballing these and haven’t found any real feedback on them.

 

Haven’t had issues yet. I know myself and @Manfred are running them. Essentially I just set them with Max caster and I was good to go.

 

Awesome that’s how I get my alignments done as well however after every trip it’s all wonky.

 

Definitely pair them with cam gussets. If you live in a rust belt have fun removing the stock came. So brutal. Have the sawzall ready lol.

 

Funny you mention that I’ve got cam guessets already and my first set of lcas had to be cut out I dipped the new cambolts in tractor grease and they’re holding up.

 

I know I have several videos of @tacoma16 cursing up a storm trying to bo-dangle mine out. How many sawzall blaes we go through? 14? Mind you 10 years of canadian winters, no need for red loctite lol

 

Dang that’s nuts

 

Red loctite in Canada is rust.

 

Info regarding how to pick up a speed wire if you change to a rear axle without sensors, or you do not want to deal with non-toyota tone rings to hook up to toyota sensors.

My goal is to do this to get a 14 bolt in the rear of the truck as well as a dana 60 in the front.

thanks @6 gearT444E for all this info. Posting here so I don't loose this

You will need to acquire the following:

VSS connector 9098011143
VSS O-ring 9671124030
VSS itself 8318112020
Worm gear (if t-case is not equipped with it) 3348135200

1st, if your transfer case does not have the worm gear on the output shaft, you'll need to replace the spacer with the worm gear.




Run 3 wires to new connector V1, one from ignition switched +12V power, and two others which will be signal wires going back to the instrument cluster connector C9 behind the drivers dash area.

Pin 2 from VSS to Pin 3 of instrument cluster
Pin 3 from VSS to Pin 6 of instrument cluster


















It should be noted that once the signal is generated from the combination meter, that signal is then sent to the ECM. Whether from an automatic or from a manual, that signal is the same once it's produced by the combination meter and sent to input to the downstream ECM.

I have also read reports of changing the teeth on the sensor assembly to get the correct speed if you have regeared, I haven't looked much into that but a few other people posted before on here with some P/Ns of different pinion teeth count for the gear speed sensor if that's something that interests you. Additionally, your instrument cluster may or may not have a wire coming out of pin 3 for the signal, you may have to procure additional terminal and wire as such.

and pics

OK. Some of you know that when I changed my rear axle, I lost my speedo and my tranny didn't shift right not to mention my check engine light was on all the time.

I needed to fix this and the only way we thoght we could was to change the rear axle once again.

Thanks to Sol and Mossyrocks, we found a way to do it with out all the money of a rear axle.

First. The '05+ Taco's get the speed from the rear axle abs sensors, sends the info to the skid control unit, changes that info into a four plus sequence and then sends that info to the instrument cluster into the speedo giving you the speed.

Since I didn't have the rear axle anymore, I needed to find another way to get that signal.

Enter Sol and Mossyrocks.

The early '05 Taco's have at the end of the transfer case, a plug that covers the port where a speed sensor goes for the manual tranny Taco's.



Now, from what I understand, the later '05 and up auto Taco's don't have this plug.

Then I needed t get a speed sensor that would work in my Taco.

This is a speed sensor from a 3.4 Taco. There are a number of different tooth count gears that come with these. I needed a 30 count gear.


This one had 2 teeth so I needed to change the gearon it.


Then the plug I got didn't have any of the wires in it so I had to make some new ones. I found the old fog light plugs I had and used those to get he wires and ens that I needed.


I took the old plug apart and put new wires into it and put it back togeher.




All back together with new wires.


Then I needed to find the wire I needed to tap into to feed the speedo the info it needed.
Here is the skid control schematic that shows the red yellow wire with the (A/T) next to it that goes to the speedo.


Then I found the shematic that shows how a manualtranny Taco gets it speed info. The V1 speed sensor is where the manual tranny Taco's get that info from. I just needed to follow that info and tap into the red yellow wire that goes to the speedo.


Then I had to find the red yelow wire in all of this junk.


Found it!!!


Then I put it all back together after taking the red yellow wire out.


Then it was time to go to the transfe case and pull the plug out of the rear of it.


Then I looked inside to see if there was indeed a worm gear that I could get speed from..... and there it was.


A closer look.....


Then I put the speed sensor in and hooked it up.



The sensor has three wires coming from it. One for power which I got a keyed 12 volts from the cigarret lighter, a ground which I grounded in the cabin, and the signal wire that I connected to the red yellow wire coming from the skid control unit.

Hooked them all up and lookie... It works. No more check engine light and the tranny shifts like t's should.



The best thing is that it's only 1 mph off. You just can't beat that.

Adding some more info: thanks @Braddman
GRN245 6 speed manual speed sensor 8318112020. https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/p/...ED-MEXICO-SPECABS-WO/47887869/8318112020.html

some more info:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/07-fj-sas-help.683291/post-8251797

 

If I did all that and then same with the 60 front I'd be addicted to Tylenol from all the headaches.... I think in another life you were a mad scientist