RSI Smart Cap

@OffroadAlliance.com Since you're here ... Do you guys happen to know the dimensions of the RSI platform rack? I looked on their website and they don't give any numbers. I'm trying to figure out if I can mount an Ikamper Skycamp Mini and have some room to mount other things on the rack such as a 4 gallon Waterport.

 

The Platform Rack is 53”W x 51”L.

 

@OffroadAlliance.com Thanks! Can’t wait for my new set up!

 

Got a weight for that too?



Still compiling research for

RSI platform rack
Prinsu Cab Rack
Front Runner Slimline II for canopies.

 

I think a shout-out is due to @OffroadAlliance.com for all their help in this thread

 

They have been very responsive.

Anyone have issues with frozen door locks, and is there a solution? Saw some comments about it on some YouTube walk around videos and I’m a little concerned.

I’m pretty close to pulling the trigger but I don’t want any surprises.

 

@minium ive dealt with frozen locks once this winter. I still need to explore options to remedy that.

 

Hi @OffroadAlliance.com - I am down to a choice between the RSI and the RLD...
I recall an issue with the length dimension early in the thread (as in the cab seemed short for the Tacoma). Any word on how this sorted out?

Thanks!

 

Yeah, thats the only issue with these caps. The handle/lock inset being on a bit of a slope retains any moisture and then of course any freezing temperatures makes it unusable. Luckily enough I could still open the tailgate though. In a less humid environment (I'm in the wet coast, Vancouver BC) they would probably be fine. That being said I have a similar issue with my 80 series Land Cruiser when it freezes; can't insert a key in the door locks and the door seals freeze up to if I forget to lube them up with something.

 

Will check on the weight and let you know ASAP.

There isn't really an issue with the length. The first pictures released were a pre-production cap for the Tacoma. The production caps were all lengthened by approximately an inch. There are plenty of pictures posted up by members here that show fitment and detail exactly how the cap fits on the bed. Hopefully that helps answer your question.


We're happy to help! If anyone is looking for RSI caps, components or just has questions, please don't hesistate to reach out.

 

Front rail about 1/4" exposed


Sides sit almost flush with a small gap between the bed rail edges and the bulb seal. RSI recommended putting the seal 1/4" from the edge and I think mine ended up being more like 1/2"


Rear profile, there is about 1.25 inches exposed on the tailgate but it doesn't feel out of place and isn't even really visible unless you are standing over the tailgate.

I originally had it flush with the front rail but since moving it back it sits better. The seal on the rear window sits perfectly in the low notch on top of the tailgate and seals it nicely. It probably also helps the seal wrapping around the sides not wear out from rubbing as much when opening the tailgate.

 

I think it looks good, one of the aspects about the fiberglass shells is they try too hard to match the body lines of the truck and as a result don’t look right half the time. Half the shells i see over hang and clip the top visual part of the bed side decals. I get it, more water proof if they don’t have a molded seam pressed against the bed rail. But this cap looks a lot more utilitarian , a look I personally tend to prefer.

 

That was another question, so you can open the tailgate independently? That def helps so I’m not locked out of my own bed if its frozen over.

However, that is a substantial issue. I also live off the east side of the Cascades, Central Oregon. I’m at the mountain most days all winter long, and I specifically need something that will function well in the environment. If I was to get frozen out of the bed that would potentially leave me fucked. I already had to scrap the Softopper I bought for the winter, I only run it from May-Oct and then put the factory tri-fold on, which broke at one of the seams just last week, likely a result of being frozen to the bed cap rail when I went to flip it back.

Ill probably end up with this cap ahead of a solution for frozen locks, especially if I can get in through the tailgate, that at least makes sure that I’m not dead in the water. I can’t imagine at this price point that they aren’t able to put together a solution.

 

I too have the window leaks- RSi sent me the new gaskets. They don't fix the issue- still leaks.
I haven't driven in the rain yet but just parked outside I get half a cup or so of water under each side window.
That is not acceptable since I may want to sleep in the back and don't want to be getting wet, especially if it is cold.
Oh and the freezing latches- I keep a propane torch in the cab to get my locks open when it rains then freezes.

Full disclosure- my RSi SmartCap is on my F150- same windows.

 

Ive had this problem with leakage too. I was about to contact RSI about it. I've been able to track down the water path in my situation. The gasket that plugs into the molded plastic groove in the frame of window does not make a watertight seal with that groove. The water gets in behind it. I thought it was gasket to glass but that's fine it seems. The angle of the side panels ensures that water just sits there in the gap, just like with the latches. Pooled up, it finds its way out, often in a few spots. I was thinking of going to RTV or put silicone in there to seal it up. Its of course on the side of the bed where my sleeping platform is.

I've also had the locks freeze up. The mechanism becomes completely inoperable. It again seems to be the water that collects in the belly of the latch that has no where to go. Add a little feeding temps and the freezing water fills up open spaces, ensuring that if you want to get it open you need to crush the ice behind the button, no easy task, and hope the sprung face of the latch has not froze to the latch body. I was tempted to drill drainage holes in the pockets that encase the whole mechanism, but that would just put that water in the cap. Im waiting on some graphite/deicer to see if that will help.

 

I have an RCI aluminum skid plate. One day I ended up driving on a FS road that degraded into a 4WD then a goat trail. The skid plate did a fantastic job protecting the oil pan and tranny. Lots of dings and dents but no failure. When I removed the skid to change the front diff oil I was worried that the mounting holes wouldn't line up and I'd have to re-drill the holes. No worries, the holes lined up and we're good to go. I wouldn't hesitate purchasing another RCI skidder for a new Taco.

 

You maybe, might have posted that in the wrong place. Maybe.

 

The OP asked if anyone had heard of RCI and had any experience with their products. Just my $0.02.

 

Actually, he was asking about RSI.

 

I wondered the same thing about the groove- but have been hesitant to fill it with something, have it not work, then RSi says "oh too bad you screwed with it so your warranty on the windows is gone".

But now that you've somewhat confirmed my suspicion I am going to try to find a sealant that sticks well enough but is not difficult to get back out if that isn't the issue. That has to be it- I hope! I'm somewhat tired of dealing with the leaks.

I'm looking into the DAP removeable caulk for a test with those grooves. Anyone have experience with it?


RSi did tell me they are working on some sort of redesign on the latches that freeze and also can't be opened from inside.

I did find if you are sleeping inside you can lock the latches while they are open and then no one can pop them in and trap you.

I'm going to devise some sort of internal latch for security when sleeping it- just like I had to add a strap to pull the hatch shut - RSi also neglected to install an inside pull handle. I simply used a short piece of nylon webbing on the studs that hold the outside lift handle on.


EDIT- pulled one of my windows to do some looking and measuring.
The groove the back side of the seal seats in is 4.3mm wide. The "blade" on the backside of the seal that fits into the groove is approximately 4.8mm wide- so not much tension there to seal well.

Furthermore the depth of the perimeter groove the seal presses into is not a uniform depth. It is about 8mm deep on the ends of the window but is about 16mm at the top and bottom.
The rubber seal "blade" that presses into the groove is about 8mm tall. So for the 16mm portion of the groove there is zero tension against the bottom of the rubber seal strip.

To compound the issue the new seals RSi sent me appear to be silicone rubber- it is almost impossible to get anything to stick to silicone rubber. So "gluing" the seal in will be difficult.

I did find one adhesive that claims to bond silicone- at $12 per 1/2 oz!

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