ADS 1st Gen

I run ADS on two truck(one mid travel and one long travel) and my dad runs them on his 2nd gen.

They are awesome. Can't go wrong with them. Best shocks made I think.

 

I guess this is the getter done way. Maybe next time you can follow these steps to do it right:
-droop out spring pack without shocks in order to weld up limit strap mounts
-weld lower shock mounts
-disassemble spring pack and cycle with only the main leaf. At full droop bolt the extended shock up to the lower mount and draw an arc for where the upper mount can possibly be .
-now fully compress the leaf pack to the frame and do the same thing with the shock (fully collapsed). release all the nitrogen charge, don’t not use a ratchet strap . Draw that 2ed arc for the upper shock mount again
-where the two arcs intersect, behind the axle, that’s the one and only proper upper mount for ur cross bar and tabs.

 

I'm not sure if you're trying to come across as condescending, but you are. I'll mention a few things, since the collective knowledge of the site went into the write-up you are dissing...

Also, I'll note that there are of course trade-offs in any modification, so we may make different decisions on those trade-offs. It doesn't mean that one way is "right" or "wrong."

• With a shock relocation like this on a 1st gen Tacoma, one of the goals is to keep the shocks as vertical as possible, since vertical shocks are easier to get the valving tuned on. As such, you want the cross bar as far forward as possible. Therefore, the "two arcs" method - while it may be more "mathematically" correct, isn't actually the desired location of the crossbar for most folks.
• By welding the lower mounts first, you either have to put them extra-low (so you don't risk the tops ending up through the bed), or you have to move the cross-bar back further, which isn't ideal (for most) as noted above.
• With the desirable cross-bar position sort of determined, we know from experience that you want the top mounts as high as possible - so that the lower mounts stick down as little as possible below the axle (for clearance). As such, we start by mounting the top mounts, rather than the bottom.
• Not many folks have the ability to re-charge nitrogen as part of this, which is why the write-up doesn't go that route.

Now, if you are building a long-travel, desert runner, where you need every bit of travel, you are probably going through the bed, and want all the geometry to be as perfect as possible. But in 99% of cases, the additional work isn't worth it IMO. Again, it comes down to trading off all the factors in a mod like this.

 

Not trying to be condescending at all. Just pointing out that to “theoretically use all the shock stroke and the leaf packs travel” you need to use the geometry method. You’re absolutely correct, I just sketched it up and the shocks would be at like 45 degrees backwards (into the spare tire) and the valving would be difficult to tune, AND it would have a terrible motion ratio. Good points.


However, you are wrong about not releasing all the nitrogen . Most tire shops , moto shops and even mtn bike shops will have 180psi N2 tanks for Schrader valves. The ratchet method is jank.

Still , if this is too much to do (for some reason) you can make a “dummy mock up shock” out of what ever (strip of wood or metal) with the known eye to eye collapsed length of the shocks.

 

Great thread start OP. This could become an excellent resource going forward for 1st gen owners considering their suspension upgrade options.

Here is my mid-travel setup:

In the front are extended travel, 2.5" ADS coilovers with 650 lbs coils and remote resis with clickers. The COs are set for ~2.25" of lift, with 7" limit straps, plastics guy's durobumps and Camburg Uniball UCAs.




In the rear are 10" stroke, 2.5" ADS triple bypasses that are mounted about as vertical as possible to still fit without going thru the bed. The shocks lengths are 25" extended and 15" compressed. ADS was able to get this 'short body' design with the use of welded rod ends. The leaf springs are from Alcan and are spec'd for 3" of lift when the bed is fully loaded for adventures. 4" Timbren bump stops and OEM shackles round out the setup.

 

so with them almost vertical, the rear is cycling 10-11” of travel ? Do the shocks act like limit straps or no ?

sorry for all the questions, I’m in a similar situation and I think I’m slowly realizing that max travel is like 10-11” with these setups. This is insufficient for my needs. Unless I do like a cantilever setup under the bed it seems a bed cage is the best idea for 14-17” travel range.

 

Well if I can't somehow still mount the spare in the existing spot, that might just rule it out for me. I don't want the tire in the bed or on the tailgate. I though I saw before people mounted the cross-bar just in front of the spare. I'm sure it's tight, but thought it was done.

Anyone else have clicker settings they've found good with no extra weight on the truck (bumpers etc)? With the number of them, do you typically tighten'em all the way in (righty tighty), then count each click out (is tightening them, making them stiffer)?

Digiratus: Looks like you're still getting a tiny bit of rubbing on the hose there...
- are your bumpstops on the frame in the rear?

When people do that u-bolt flip, which kits are you using? The u-bolts Deaver gave me previously were a joke, and bent as I tightened them before even reaching the final torque. So I'm extra hesitant with those, want to make sure they're solid.

It seems like mostly people are running 650lb springs on those coilovers on the front, is that what they typically come with from ADS? That's with people with stock bumpers and stuff right (what I have).

 

I like the dummy shock setup (wood/metal) idea. Definitely easier than the strap.

10-11" of travel is about what you can get with a leaf pack that is the stock length on a 1st gen. You can get more travel with something like a Chevy 63" pack as @drr has done - he's running 12" shocks with that pack.

For more travel, you'd need a longer pack, SUA, that kind of thing. For 14-17", you're definitely going to be looking at going into the bed and/or SUA and longer shackles.

The tire definitely doesn't fix back there with a cross bar - I don't know of anyone who has gotten that to work, especially with 33"+ tires, which are already tough to fit back there.

For u-bolt flip, you can essentially pick whatever kit you want - they are all conceptually similar (obviously). I used the one from here, and it's been great: Toyota Tacoma U-Bolt Flip Kit - DuroBumps - Toyota Bump Stops for 4Runner, Tacoma, Tundra, FJ Cruiser

 

The top out limiting factor is the alcan springs. Right now I am able to utilize about ~9" of travel with this bump setup. No limit straps on the rear yet, but may be a future mod.

I would generally agree. Unless you go through the bed, or lean the shocks way back, about 10" is max for a spring-over configuration.

Good eye. I have spoken with Matt at MCM Fab about this issue. Because of the hose length and the way the fittings are configured, the hose has to be on the outside, exposing it to the tire. With my tire/wheel combo with 4" of backspacing and 285/75-16s, the tire did rub on the hose a little bit. 3.5" of BS or a narrower tire (what I did) the rubbing on the hose was reduced to almost zero.

Bumps in the rear are mounted on the axle. I used this kit: ADS COs can be ordered with 600, 650 and 700 lbs coils. 650 may be too much coil for an extracab with no added weight (plate bumper, winch, skids, sliders, dual batteries, etc.).

 

I have 32" tires all around, think on the spare also, not sure if that'd make the difference.

Thanks for all the great info so far - those are for 05+ tacos...?

 

This is a great thread. I’ll definitely be referring to it when I get ready to go to ads’s

 

The spare was removed so I could get a better picture. Recall the 1st gen rear stock shock locations are opposed on either side of the axel. Passenger side is mounted closer to the front of the vehicle which allows clearance for the exhaust:


Drivers side is mounted towards the rear. Tire size is 275 70 17 (32.2 inches) which clears the shock:

 

24.25 inches


Pismo is a blast!

 

I am using this. So what does that tell you.

 

wow thanks! That's fully extended then right, looks like your tires off the ground...

With those stock mounting points and shocks, are you noticing them over-extending, like going over a speed bump or something?

Merry christmas everyone

 

Yes, fully extended.

I never hear the clunk from the shocks over extending as described in the ADS thread. Maybe I drive too slow? I’ve been on a few challenging trails.

Poison Spyder




Top of the World


Flat Iron Mesa


Steel Bender


I remember traveling Hole in the Rock road in Utah, which is notorious for its washboard surface. The shocks minimized the rough ride at 53 mph.

OH! I remember hearing what kinda sounded like a clunk once. But I believe it was the upper control arm zert puncturing the wheel well sheet metal on landing at Pismo:

Ooof!

I really like the suspension setup I have. It is as much fun driving the curvy roads at speed on the way to the trail as it is on the trail.

 

I have ADS 2.5s with clickers on my 3rd Gen and love it. I bought a 1st Gen and plan on putting them on it too....this thread could be a great spot to refer back to. I've been following the original thread as well.

 

That’s the rubbing I was getting with 33” mt tires. I rubbed on the can a bit too. Just not enough room in that well with 1st gens

 

I had said clunk but Matt at mcm fab adjusted some stuff. It’s basically the shock extending all the way and stopping suddenly. Talked to ads and they said it can do that all day long but it’s kinda annoying. They updated their valving to help with that and I had my top out plates*(not sure if that’s exactly what they’re called) machined by Matt to give a bit more travel to also help.

 

Would spacers help with that?