Deciding between 2 new chainsaws -gimme your opinion

You brought up the drive sprocket on the 261's. I noticed right away they are different from the non -pro models. they are a much more positive drive system ,plus the addition of the washer on the outside of the sprocket. This brings me to my one small gripe about the saw, and I am mostly sure it is the operator (ME). Do you have any more (than other saws) difficulty getting the chains on/off of the 261? On every other saw I have had enough slack when de-tensioning the chain, to give sufficient slack to slip the chain over the sprocket -- not on this saw?
Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome .
Thanks

 

If you cut all of that with the 261 Stihl -- you my friend are a wood cutting machine, and Stihl should do a commercial starring you and your saw!

 

Aw, shucks Mark, nice of you to say so. That pile does represent a few “days” work, with 5-6 hours making up a day, about all this 60 something old fart with a weak mind and weaker back can manage any more. The logger treats me well. As you can see from the pile, the diameters are pretty consistent at 12”-16”, and I order logs harvested in the winter so they’re clean. When it comes to bucking firewood, a pulp hook is your friend and makes a huge difference in stacking.

 

The “floating” or rim sprocket is what you see on the pro models. They recommend alternating two chains, then replacing the sprocket. Interesting you mention having trouble mounting the chain on the 261. I have had trouble mounting the bar. After hanging the chain on the bar, running the tensioner back far enough to loop the chain over the sprocket is no problem, but I have a hard time keeping the bar mounted on the studs when stretching it back out. It’s almost like the bar stud doesn’t project all the way through the bar, so it slips off. Having a third hand would be helpful. Not being afflicted with essential tremor would be more helpful, though.

 

Interesting, the only difference on mine is when my GREAT dealer upgraded my saw to the 20 inch bar and the bigger chain , they put the ES (one of Stihl's best) bar on the saw at no extra cost. I've tried to get my bar and chain on the motor assy when the chain is on the bar, but once again -- dam near impossible. I had to sort of walk the chain around while rolling the chain. I never had this problem with my old 310 with the 20 inch bar and same size chain? Only thing different -I wonder if the combo of this bar/chain and saw assy -is OK?. This dummy (me) will check with the dealer again and watch them change it out. They are just great "country boys" happly to help out a dumb "city slicker " like me!

 

I just bought the stihl sharpener tool. Iv sharpened my chain with my standard file and shaved the rakers down some ... saw won’t pull itself through the tree.... once I make it cut then it starts but ain’t like a new chain.... I’m still in the learning phase. Haven’t used the new tool yet

 

Sharpened the saw with the stihl sharpener today... wow Easy peasy !! Haven’t used the saw yet tho... hoping to do so this weekend... got called into work tomorrow on my Xmas vacation... loads of work and no techs.... I thought I was the only one off :-/ covid had been going around tho so who knows... stay safe and saw on!

 

Mine worked fine for several saw sharpenings then faded off -- I actually wore out the files . My dealer said the files they have found lately are CRAP including Stihl.
This probably includes the ones that come in the new Stihl sharpening guide. Maybe having to do with crap steel coming out of China?? I had no idea that I could wear out files that fast. he replaced the files in my guide for a good price. The "oddball" in the file guide tool is the Square one that does the depth guides/gauges. It is the one that is not readily available just "anywhere".

T-yoda please
Let me know how yours does over a longer period of time -- feel free to PM me.
I apologize to you and others if these tools are not what I said/thought they were

 

Will do. No apology needed, nobody would know that they changed manufacturing for their pockets :-/ the ground is going to freeze again this weekend so I’ll finish my log cutting and gotta get splitting

 

Try sourcing files from Pfred. They make all kinds of industrial tooling/files etc. I've only replaced the round files once in a couple of years...you really notice when they're worn out. Fewer filing/leavings, the sound it makes is different too.

The most I do is 3 passes, unless I'm using a vernier caliper and trueing all the cutting teeth to the same length. But then I don't let them chains get dulled out very far. It's much easier to touch up than do a recovery sharpening. Ugh.

 

When did you buy your sharpener? I bought my stihl sharpener last year, and it's still going strong. Granted, I've only used it half a dozen times or so.

Wow. Sounds like I might be way over doing it. I do 10 swipes per tooth when I sharpen.

 

Sharpener came from my dealer, so it should be genuine. they have been around for 40 some years.
maybe it is because I had to do a great amount of "rip cuts" on many 3-4 foot great big chunks. I do this to cut into them vertically and then drive wedges in them to half then quarter them. Most of the time they split open but once in awhile I had to rotate them with the cant hook and cut all the way thru. I have heard that rip cuts are harder on the chain, but I am not sure this is true

 

I have the sneaky impression that the Stihl and the Pferd are the same tool. look at them -they are the EXACT same tool with the exception of the color. As far as the files contained within the tools -- not sure.
One of these two companies is selling their design to the other --I would bet good money on that! I'll check on that.

WOW -- a caliper on each tooth -- thats great-- buuuut -even this old retired fart (ME) ain't gonna spend that much time on a chain saw chain! I do agree on the "touch-up" idea, especially since I found and restored with new jaw plates, an old 5 inch Wilton vise; now in my shop/mess.

UPDATE!! I went out and looked at my Stihl sharpener(s) and compared them to the picts of the Pferds on the net. These two are identical with the exception of the word Stihl and the word Pferd. Only other diff is the color. If this not a sale of ones technology to the other one Then we have sombody out and out STEALING the others design. Since The Stihl is the latest to the market, I am thinking they bought and are selling the design Pferd came up with first?? Files inside the device anyone know?

 

Using the caliper doesn't add 2 minutes to a chain sharpening. I only do it if I notice visually, a difference in tooth length, or the cuts veer to one side or the other...a sure sign the cutters are not the same length. 10 strokes would eat a chain up pretty fast. 1-3 is plenty when touching up.

 

I have always heard/read that the tooth's length did not make as much difference in the straightness of the cut as much as the equal sharpness of the rt hand teeth vs. the left hand. I have been wrong before!
Another subject to do a little unofficial research on this quiet Christmas day.

Research over! -- I stand corrected -- according to both Stihl and Oregon's website -- it IS important to keep all the cutters to the same length -- something I will look at closer from now on --micrometer close --I doubt that. if you can do it quickly with a micrometer --so be it

 

Merry Christmas fellas! Keep calm and saw on!

 

I don't think I'd go as far as a micrometer, but a vernier caliper is quick and easy. I have several that only cost $1. In the shop, in the chainsaw tools box, randomly placed throughout the house.

 

I have both saws.

If you are looking for ONE saw, get the 362 and don't look back.

Ultimately you will be limited by the 261.