Switch Pros SDHQ vs Power Trays mount

6g as the run was just about 2-3' from battery to Switch Pro. I use the 1 or 2 for longer runs to power distribution blocks such as in the rear of the 80 and 100 series... Nothing wrong with 1/0, but not needed in this application.

Best,

john

 

The Powertray is just a metal bracket that you can mount electric accessories on. No power gets transmitted by the panel itself. You can mount a bus bar, fuse block or Switchpro to it and use custom wiring to attach them to ground and power.

 

Thanks for clearing up what I probably confused him with even more. Assumed he was asking about how the circuitry worked, but now I feel like that wasn’t what he was asking at all.

 

I'm liking the connection point on your handheld. Have a write-up or more pictures and what brand radio it is?

 

Hello, I just wanted to see if I could help clarify a little.....

So the Switch-Pros is a separate discussion from the Fuse Block. Switch-Pros (SP) protects your mods through it's own internal system. Per the installation instructions, the SP is supposed to be connected by the supplied cable directly to the battery. There's and in-line fuse on that cable. Similar is the ground wire. Something to note, and somebody said I believe, things wired through the SP will not have power once the ignition is off..... Additionally, I wanted to point out that per the installation requirements from Switch-Pros, the Switch-Pros Power Module is required to be mounted vertically so as to keep water/moisture from collecting inside the pin connector and corroding the pins.

That all being said....

Enter the Fuse Block (FB). First, again someone said, you do not run things through the FB and the Switch-Pros. The Fuse Block and the Switch-Pros are separate systems. Generally speaking, the FB is for mods which need power and fuse protection when the ignition is off. Things like a refrigerator, auxiliary lights, hardwired Ham radio or CB. Solar systems use them as well.

The Circuit Breaker goes between the battery and the Fuse Block assisting in protecting that from overload. It does not get connected to the Switch-Pros.

Now the BusBar.... easy... this is a place for you to bring ground wires to one place and then run a grounding cable to where ever you choose to ground the BusBar to... be it the negative battery terminal or elsewhere.

The Terminal Block.... Some people choose to connect their mods to the SP via the terminal block (the positive wires). Another option is to connect the wires directly to the SP wires. The Terminal Block makes it easier to connect and disconnect these wires if/when needed to change which button controls which mods. Its a nice clean look to the install.

The 'vessel' in which all of this is connected to is a variable each person will have to find to suit their needs. The electrical collaboration tray is referred to in different ways, be it an overlanding tray or whatever, its best to think about the FUTURE of YOUR build so as to prevent having to upgrade your upgrade later because your needs were more elaborate than you thought they'd be. The flip side to that is, if you are not going to be needed something that the Fuse Block provides, then that type of setup is expensive and likely overkill - perhaps the Terminal Block and BusBar vessel is perfect.

Please keep in mind that there are many ways to wire things up and the above information can be used to help you get to where you need to go. Do your research on what you intend to install to figure out what the needs are and make decisions from there.

You can take a look at my IG for a few examples on the 4Runner... @sdoffroadmt. Some more info on T4R, search "SD Offroad" (am I aloud to say that on this forum?).

HTH

 

This is super helpful. Thank you!

 

This is all incredibly helpful! I just ordered my Powertray for my 2017 Sport. Will share photos when it's all assembled!

 

Wiring newb here and this post was super helpful. If I wanted to run some raptors lights, and a bumper light bar without chopping up my stock wiring would any of these be a good option? I'm thinking of future mods and would like to have a clean install if at all possible.

As I understand it, it still seems that you need to tap into the ignition wiring to power up the switch pro and I would like to avoid having to chop up any factory wiring as much as possible.

 

The width marker lights I would use the add a fuse which most come with right to the fuse in the engine bay.
As for the switch pro, I would do the same. Which is what I did. No hacking of the factory harness.

 

Where specifically did you tap the switch pro into? Also since the marker lights come with an add a fuse, what sort of mods would require a fuse block?

 

I've attached my set up. The fuse block (only 4) are for the GMRS radio and 3TPAM power as well as the power for my powered antenna motor.. arb twin compressor motors have it's own fuse as seen and the rest of the lights as well as power for compressor all run through the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100. IGN fuse found in the box in the engine bay. Not sure which one. I'd have to go look again.

 

So vertical mounting of the switch tray itself is recommended? I can't find a vertical 2nd gen sp-100 tray.

 

It’s says

Unfortunately for the warranty on the Switchpro it does say vertical mounting required or it may void it. This is from their instructions sheet.

 

Why don’t they make any trays for the passenger side I am running my compressor right there where all the trays mount.. arg…

 

How do you get to your fuse panel?

 

Prob the same way anyone with a tray right there would. Which is not as easily as stock. I would just move the compressor.

 

I jerry rigged the tray to come off with out tools.. super easy…

 

Ya I’m thinking that is the solution.. Sadly..