2003 Tacoma frame rust repair

I removed rear bumper, license lights, tow hitch (heated bolts with MAP torch) taillights and dropped wiring to frame.
She CRUSTY bro.
M17 and M19 deepwell sockets, 6" extension and 1/2" air impact.
Forgot the gas cap but caught it before ripping off the filler neck.

 

Also, when I do get the bed off, I’m assuming this factory bedliner should go as well?

 

ok. That what I’ll do as well.

I did a bunch of hammmer testing and the frame sounds good. Now I see the difference in sound because when I tapped on the gas tank crossmember, it didn’t really ring, it was more of a ‘thud’. Not sure if I’m ‘splainin that right, Lucy.

 

After removing spare, bumper, hitch, taillights and rear wheels I put on a wet suit and dive mask and 3,000 PSI pressure washed then foam gunned Simple Green, soak, rinse, repeat.

 

Wow. Better part of 2 hr just to get the hitch off and that has only been on truck for about 4 years. I see what you mean about these trucks ‘attracting’ rust.

I’m going to tackle bumper next.

 

Just DO IT
It WORKS

 

You don't *have* to remove the hitch or bumper to pull the bed. I left mine on when I replaced my gas tank two weeks ago. I used a ratcheting wrench to remove the rearmost bed bolts, but with the amount of rust you have on your hardware I'd want access with the impact if possible.

I'd remove the drop in bedliner before you lift the bed. It weighs a surprising amount (like 60-80lbs). Whether or not to keep the bed liner in long term is question I've been debating. They trap moisture and will cause rust, but they also protect the sheet metal in the bed fairly well from heavy items and drops.

While you have the bed off I'd examine all of the rubber hoses attached to the fuel tank, and replace any of them that look brittle or damaged. Most can be replaced with fuel line. Also might consider changing the three rubber gaskets on the tank.

 

I removed the bumper, the taillights, the tailgate and the mudflaps. I also removed the two rearmost bed bolts. Tomorrow I am going to disconnect wiring harness from bed and remove the other 4 bed bolts. Do the rear wheels need to come off?

 

Nah rear wheels stay on .

Have look at the gas filler. make sure gas cap is off.

 

Ok. Thanks for the reminder about the gas cap

 

I broke mine last time.

 

How does the bedliner come out? Is it just ‘snapped’ in place or are there bolts?

 

Don't throw it in the trash if its good. But of course, take it off before removing the bed as it will remove some weight

No, not at all. A plastic bedliner won't cause your bed to rust IF you do remove it from time to time to clean up what has accumulated underneath and do some paint touch ups if needed. If you do this, your bed will never rust

Spray-in bedliner is not a bad option either, but if you eventually have any little crack or chip in it, moisture will get in and it will just fester with rust underneath the liner. Good luck removing that stuff to treat the rust as it is rock hard!

This is why I would never go spray-in liner, but anyway, both options have their advantages and disadvantages...

 

This model of bedliner ("Over the sides") usually have bolts to hold it in place :



These bolts screw into some brackets that clamp to the sheet metal up there. ONce these are removed/loosened, pull the bedliner up and it should slide right out

 

Ok. Thanks. I’ll do that tomorrow morning. I’m a little scared as to what I’m gong to find underneath.

 

My Yota was on jack stands with wheels off throughout the process but wheels on is ok removing bed.

 

Do you think I should replace the LSPV once I have the bed off? I know it's close to a $200 part, but should I just take care of it now rather than waiting until it rusts through?

 

Rust gobs gotta go
New LSVP

 

@BossFan
I see you reading the rusty diff cover thread.
You're gonna have nightmares man.

 

I know. That $2000+ BLO winch bumper is gonna have to wait another year.

what do I do about this differential?