Headlight Retrofit Advice

Thanks you. I have decided to skip the halo’s for that exact reason. It’s nice reading your responses as I think we are on the same page.

 

They say to test the high beam control on the projector with a 9v battery at least 50 times to make sure it will function reliably. I would also recommend this.

 

The Morimoto mini H1s don't place light intensity in the correct places in the beam pattern like an OEM headlight. The hot spots are too low and they cause increased foreground light, which is not at all what you want in a headlight. See details in post #2295 here.

 

Fair enough, however having used them before switching to the Mini D2S, they are far and away better for depth and width than the stock 1st gen headlights. When I used to do retros, one of the worst projectors as far as foreground was actually the FXR.. the foreground on it was horrible.

Would be nice if I could look at the raw data, but there's a 404 error. Having trouble believing some of these claims. Throw a bar chart at people and most will believe it, however I would like to see more than one source for the data that has been cited before I believe it. Since I can't look at the data.. well...

 

I find the good mini H1's have a foreground cutoff built in and also the bulbs adjust enough to move the hot spot in the correct spot.

 

Well, stock 1st Gen lights are not much to compare against and certainly not implying there are not worse retrofit projectors out there. There are certainly other upgrades available though. My objective is to vouch for the best, and for HID that will be a D-series OEM projector over an H1 halogen-rebased china HID product.

IIRC when the post was made the raw data link did work. FWIW that member appears to be a CandlePower member that posts some exceptionally technically detailed lighting information on this forum. That should mean something coming from me. They seem well beyond the comprehension level of most "professionals" on this forum, especially those from Morimoto/TRS. Go to a real lighting forum like CandlePower with actual industry professionals and try to promote Morimoto, and prepare to be eaten alive. I'd take the data at face value.

 

Did you do RGB halos?
Demon eyes?

 

I had one fail out of the box..retrosource sent me a new one right away.

 

This aftermarket headlight sucks!

 

What temp were you working at and how long? I usually do 225° for 5 minute intervals a headlight at a time.

 

Did to get hot enough?

 

Judging by the lens warping I'd say too hot too fast. Or is that the normal shape? never really seen that year headlight.

 

Yep..broken all to hell.

Used the right tool and followed the video on TRS

Hoping it’s just the cheap buckets I bought on Amazon (Not TYC) Heard TYC work well

 

Followed the TRS instructions the first time... Wouldn’t budge
So you’re right I did crank up the heat because I got frustrated. I think housings are just crap

Cheap

GOHATI Replacement Headlight GTYTC01-A4 Black Housing Amber Reflector Clear Lens & Black Trim Corner Light Combination Set compatible with Tacoma Pickup Truch 2001-2004 OE # 81150-04110 81110-04110

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3QV31V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

oh yeah, those may be sealed with permaseal. TRS makes something that supposedly dissolves it. Other than that, those are a real bitch to open up. Most are just silicone sealed, so it's usually really easy.


Try this, or buy some TYC housings.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-permatrator-solution-for-permaseal-B-PERMA?quantity=1

 

Thanks for the input

I really appreciate it!

TYC housings are on there way!

 

I did eagle eyes headlights. 280 temp for 8 min. I did crack the housing a little on both, but nothing like that.

 

This process might not work for an all plastic housing,
But good info for the 7x6 Metal and glass buckets.
I have the 7x6 1st gen lights and bought the replacement metal and glass headlight buckets.

What I did is place the headlights upside down and filled them with acetone and placed them in a tub overnight.

The acetone dissolved 100 percent of the sealant and the glass lens fell right out of the bucket.
This was so simply while others were chipping the glass lens trying to pull it out.

Pushing the lens from the inside with the back of a screw driver with a cloth as protection or a 10” socket extension would be a better option instead of trying to grab the edges from the front lip I think.

If the buckets you have were glued tho from factory nothing will help

 

If I were you I'd get leds, I made a little harness that takes power from one of the stock connectors to power the bulbs and actuate the high beam shutters it's very clean opposed to hid ballasts and all the extra wiring

Mine have more wiring than they need because the harness I made has a female h1 connector than I added a male h1 on the leads coming out the led

that way if one goes out I can just plug a 3 dollar Walmart h1 bulb into the harness and projector than be on my way

 

But these are so bad ass looking