6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

The jury is still out on that. I’m hoping so. It’s gonna be close.

A 3/4” master needs a 1.400” stroke to move the bearing its full .700” of stroke. That being said; Best I can tell, the clutch needs something like .400 to .500” to fully disengage. Add in the gap necessary to completely pull that bearing off the fingers, and, it’s gonna be close. The way my pedal is currently adjusted, I’m getting about 1.1” of stroke at the cylinder. I could probably sneak a tiny bit more, but that would put the clutch pedal up higher than I’d like it. I like it adjusted so that it is at an even height with the brake pedal.

 

Wait wait wait! Stop the presses. What’s this? A bearing with the dimensions I need!? Well, almost... It has a 45mm id which means I need to make a spacer to adapt it to the 40mm Tilton piston. No problem. I’ll happily do that to have the correct 68mm radius faced contact circle of this 90363-45013 bearing. It’s intended for a non-USDM Toyota Land Cruiser. Which means I had to order one from overseas. If anyone knows of a better source for these, please let me know.

Toyota: 90363-45013 or 90363-45009
Koyo: RCTS45A
Nachi: 45TRBC07-13SB

Switching to the 40mm piston means that I’ll need a different hydro housing as well. Tilton calls the one I’m going to need their “short” housing. So, I’ll be returning this one tomorrow to trade for the appropriate pieces. Yay.

 

Once all this greatness is figured out, will you be making kits? Or will you just have the part numbers available for everyone to source the parts?

 

I haven't really decided on that. What I'd really like to see is for Tilton to develop a complete kit for these trucks.

Who knows. If they saw a bunch of interest, they might.

Either way, I will be posting up what I'm using. I started already in one of the first posts in this thread.

 

Hows the tilton kit looking? I like that the hoses appear permanently attached straight into the housing. Would be unlikely to loosen or leak.

 

It’s certainly a class act. Definitely a cut above the pos I was running before. The hoses are pushed into the housing with a double o-ring and a c-clip to retain it. They swivel around to wherever you need them.

 

Reserved

 

I'll be working on the cross drilling in the thread link listed back in post #32. Drilling the RA and RC should be very similar, if not the same. Also looking at improved synchronizers and possibly adding an oil pump to increase oil flow (which is already quite neat) and supply cooling. The RA/RC is a brilliant transmission, the penny pinchers at Toyota did a few things that gave it a bad reputation.

 

I will look and see if I still have the repair manual on PDF. It was for the RA61, but will be the same.

 

Tried looking. I can't find it. I had it stored as a link, now the link is dead.

 

@gearcruncher


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ra60f-internals-shenanigans-ra60-ra61f-too.701237/#post-24849044

 

Oh yeeeeah! It’s here. Shipped out of Dubai.

 

Question about the Tilton unit. Once the threaded shaft is adjusted, what keeps the unit from spinning when the clutch is applied?

 

There’s a pin that prevents rotation.

 

Email from Tilton today. The hydro unit to replace the one I sent in to exchange won't ship till the 12th.

 

Anyone have their 6mt out of the truck? Or possibly one laying around in the corner of the garage? I need a measurement. Bell housing face to center of shifter socket.

 

Thank you.

So, it looks like RA60 and RA61 are in the same spot.

And thank you @Jowett for the measurement of the RC62F which is 25.625”.

This means that the shifter is going to sit roughly 1.8” further back than the RA trans.

 

I'll double check that measurement...

 

I’ll just leave this here...

 

I'm sure mine will look the same. I hear it squealing in the mornings when she cold.