2020 Key Amp and Hideaway Installation Complete

Question, how did you take the bass remote apart and how did you install in a blank plate. I want to do the same thing as I have the hideaway 10 inch also. Do you get any rattles with it mounted to the back plastic cubby? I plan on mounting mine there as well.
Thanks!

 

wow, i've been away from tacomaworld for awhile (busy moving) but I'm surprised this thread is still going. I would have thought that a metra kit would be available by now. in any event, my install/system is still working well and I enjoy it almost daily.

on the question about the bass remote, I don't remember exactly what was needed to take it apart but I remember it was very straightforward. i kind of remember that you can pull the knob off easily, and then there is a nut underneath which locks the post to the plastic housing. just undo the nut and you can detach the entire small circuit board from the housing.

i don't get any rattles unless I turn the bass all the way up to maximum, then the back window rattles. I did put dynamat-like material underneath the rear seats so that might help.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will play with the bass knob and see if I can take it apart. I hooked up my Hideaway the way you have it and I also have no rattles but I haven't put any sound deadening except in the door panels where I installed kicker speakers. I may put more in behind the rear seats to reduce road noise. I have had the Kicker Key 180.4 for nearly 2 years already and was very pleased and was in no rush for a subwoofer. Didn't think it was possible to get better but the hideaway 10 inch really compliments the sound and system.

 

Nice work OP. Thanks for your efforts. I am planning on doing a very similar install. Kicker Key with a powered sub as well. I want to run power from the battery direct since I'll be doing so with the powered sub anyway. Also doing ground straight to the vehicle, not through the radio harness. Finally, I'll do turn ons for both the kick key and the powered sub through the speaker wires.

With all this being said, and since I don't have everything in front of me to compare harnesses, could someone confirm that the "add a sub" harness from taco tunes is all that is needed since I wouldn't need anything from the additional "add an amp" harness? I am thinking, since I need to to get speaker signals for both the kicker key and the powered sub I can just add splice additional leads on for the powered sub off the same harness. So the one harness would be used to get the speaker signal to both the amp and sub.

I've also just thought about getting 2 of the "add a sub" harnesses and just piggy back that off each other to get two sets of signal leads, one for the amp and one for the sub. This would save me from having to splice off the one harness.

Thoughts?

 

I did basically the same set up you’re referring to in my 2020. I used the add an amp harness though as the leads on it are much longer (not sure how long exactly...have to ask the manufacturer). To answer your question, there is nothing else you will need, especially since you plan on doing the amp turn on through the high level (speaker wires).

The add an amp harness is only the speaker leads. It also has an extra set of leads for a sub, but for some reason they tapped into one of the rear speakers for that. I didn’t use those as the rear speakers in our trucks are underpowered. Instead, I tapped off of the front speaker leads for my powered sub.

Hopefully that helps. Sounds like you already have a good understanding of what needs to done.

 

Hmm, I was under the impression that the "add an amp" harness did not have the speaker wires and was only needed for power, ground and remote turn on if you wanted to run it through the radio harness. I am pretty familiar with audio, and Toyota Audio in general as I used the same taco tunes harnesses for my previous 4runner amp and powered sub. The only think that is different and causing me some confusion is that the Kicker Key doesn't have any pass through RCA outputs (from my understanding) for a sub so I am having to get the speaker signal from the radio for the powered sub as well. Something I didn't not have to deal with in the 4runner.

does anyone have any pictures of the 2020+ add a sub and add an amp harnesses that have not already been spliced into factory wiring? I think a visual will help me. I don't trust that the taco tunes site has the correct harnesses displayed when selecting 2020+ on the drop down menus.

 

yes exactly. the amp harness is only used so that you can get the male and female connector for R51, which is the speaker leads. The default wiring uses the rear leads to get the signal for the sub. that is not optimal. as you build your wiring I recommend you tap the front speaker instead.

all of the other connections on the amp are not from the back of the radio. power run from the battery directly. remote turn on not needed if you set the amp and sub to use signal detect.

 

I’m 100% sure the add an amp harness only includes the speaker leads. I believe this is for 2020+ though since their speaker leads are all in one plug. I’ve never seen the add a sub harness so I couldnt tell you anything about it

 

Ok thanks all. Once I start getting parts together in the next month, I’ll report my findings too. I’m probably overthinking it anyway.

 

I have an add a sub harness coming in for the 2020. I'll post a picture once I receive it. Ended up going with a Compact

$350 Alpine PWE-S8 120W Compact Powered 8" Car Subwoofer for Under or Behind The Seat

Alpine PWE-S8, but will be getting a Keys amp down the road as well. I believe the PWE-S8 is similar in terms of installing as the Hideaway.

 

To the guys running the 12+ volt wire directly to the battery, are you guys running two individual 12 gauge wire for each the amp & hideaway? Looking for a 1in 2 out distribution block, but I don't see one for 12 gauge wires.

 

Yes. I just did two separate wires with two separate fuses.

 

Finding something that will allow such small wires is probably not worth it in my opinion. Two runs of 12awg will also probably be cheaper than an 8awg and a distribution block and still buying 12awg for the Key.

 

Ah, guess I was just trying to avoid cluttering the engine bay with red wire since I also have my truck cap dome light wire running to the battery as well

 

You can get something like this that will accommodate smaller fuses and wires, but they typically are 6+ outputs when you only need two.

they’re cheap though.

 

Will the Key amp take 10gauge directly? I like the sounds of running 10ga much more than 12ga.

 

I fortunately it won’t. It has about 12” of power lead already in the harness. You could use a 10-12awg butt connector, or a small fuse holder / distribution block to act as a reducer from the 10awg down to the kicker’s power leads

 

@destin_meeks I'm sure you've touched on this a thousand times, but mind confirming FD, FP, RD, RP on this Toons harness for me?

I'm assuming FD(Grey's (top + bottom -), FP (White), RD(Green), RP(Purple)

 

White -front driver
Grey - front passenger
Green - rear driver
Purple - rear passenger