How to: DIY Wedge Camper

mhmm I actually purchased it but haven’t installed. I didn’t see any leaking issues on here but didn’t look to hard. It wasn’t my first choice, but was what’s available. And way cheaper than the uptop

 

Sorry for the confusion. What I meant was that I read somewhere here that someone was having leaking issues with the UpTop one. It could’ve been user error on the install. Haven’t heard anything bad about the other one

 

ah yes thats new. I was following a long and then stopped after I got mine for the 2nd gen installed

 

FWIW I trimmed my 3rd gen antenna down as far as people do the 2nd gen antennas and ditched the metal parts in the fin (I believe that is what you are referring to) and have had zero issues

 

I’m assuming you can’t use the radio?

 

I said I have had zero issues meaning everything still works

 

What did you covered it with?

 

I cut it down as low as I could and epoxied a top in. Then spray painted it black.

 

Now I dont often use the radio, so I cannot guarantee the HD mode or whatever it is works, or equal range, but I have used the radio after trimming the fin

 

Hey what did people do for the lower panel between the spaceframe and extrusions? I noticed in Ripcord's video it extends a little over the spaceframe in the length and then has curved sides.

I was just planning to go the width of the spaceframe 1.5" all around, Ill be having the complete opening of the bed so there is more room to move around.

 

Has anyone tried using 1x3 extrusion vs 1.5x3 for the wedge portion?

 

I personally would not as the weakest portion is the roof panel and 1.5 has some good flex to it already.

 

Camper looks better dirty. Great shakedown at Big Bend National and State parks!

 

Has anybody put 1 or 2 cross bars?

 

It sure but it would interfere with the keder rail install and lead to some extra fab.

In case anyone is looking to keep their rear door closed without it needing to be latched, my theory of moving the ball studs down so they either center or pass center point when closed works. The door now stays closed when unlatched and I don’t need to solve for keeping it closed once inside.





I didn’t have any hardware in hand for the the little piece so I used some other ball stud lol

 

I was thinking a 8020 or 2 in the top lid of the tent. Don’t know if it’ll do much...

 

You’re on the right track. I used these to offset the mounting point. Now the rear hatch remains closed when unlocked.

 

I posted that very same bracket a week or two ago, difference is i camped last night and needed a solution ASAP so I had to make it cause my lazy ass never got around to ordering the bracket haha. Works great though, so I likely won’t order the brackets.

 

Lol. If that does the job, then roll with it haha

 

Folks, this thread has been keeping me hopeful about completing this project! so thank you all for the amazing input

I am wondering about a few things, first, I tried to go the SendCutSend route, but ended up only able to get the brackets cut and not bent, I assume that shouldn't be too much work to bend them with a bench vice and stuff, but before I do go that route, are there any other options? I am also curious about the material choice (if you went with SendCutSend)

the second thing is, I was wondering if anyone kept track of their welding jig dimensions and cost?