What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

FitzTaco84 · Jan 4, 2021

scottstrong89 said: ↑

So taking my Prius in for the 30K was a little more expensive today than I anticipated. Paid the $399 to extend the Toyota Care to 45k, which I was planning on. But then I decided to go look at the trd skid plates in person and see what the dealership price was since I’ve been eyeing them and that was on the list of things I need to get next, but not right now. But then they got me with the, “ we have one left so I’ll give it to you for $385 instead of $417.” Today was too expensive and the wife isn’t gonna be too thrilled. I really need to be done for a while now!

I also had time to do the TVD Vinyl Decals chrome delete.

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I wanted to see the skid plate installed on the Prius not your Tacoma haha

rgljr831 · Jan 4, 2021

Loretta said: ↑

will take some better ones later
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Looking good!

scottstrong89 · Jan 4, 2021

FitzTaco84 said: ↑

I wanted to see the skid plate installed on the Prius not your Tacoma haha
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Haha well it actually needs one it’s so damn easy to scrape that thing.

BiggsPoppa · Jan 4, 2021

Dellafor said: ↑

Installed a few things....anytime GPS/camera mod(switch), plugin LOC , kicker tweeters + under seat amp, 8" JL sub, and front camera yesterday! Came out super clean and sounds amazing for an 8" sub. I also ran a remote gain knob for sub output control.

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This is the exact sub setup I’ve been debating. I’m assuming you’d recommend?

cartter469 · Jan 4, 2021

BiggsPoppa said: ↑

This is the exact sub setup I’ve been debating. I’m assuming you’d recommend?
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Dellafor said: ↑

Installed a few things....anytime GPS/camera mod(switch), plugin LOC , kicker tweeters + under seat amp, 8" JL sub, and front camera yesterday! Came out super clean and sounds amazing for an 8" sub. I also ran a remote gain knob for sub output control.

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Did you buy the cord that goes to the back of the head unit to the amp to make plug and play? Or did you wire it in.

jesus quintana · Jan 4, 2021

Got the windows tinted. 30% on the front and visor, 35% on the back. Put on the AVS wind defectors, and blacked out the tailgate badges.

Sandy94 · Jan 4, 2021

MESO said: ↑

It will be revealed soon
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It better be a v8 cutlass supreme swap

Hiebster · Jan 4, 2021

Has anyone installed the 3tpm powered accessory mount? I’m looking to run the wires from the usb to an auxiliary fuse box instead of tapping the cigarette socket. Does anyone know what gauge wire is used on the mount? 18,16, or 14?

s7726 · Jan 4, 2021

Hiebster said: ↑

Has anyone installed the 3tpm powered accessory mount? I’m looking to run the wires from the usb to an auxiliary fuse box instead of tapping the cigarette socket. Does anyone know what gauge wire is used on the mount? 18,16, or 14?
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I have one. I'd guess 18, but that's a guess. It's running MAYBE 1Amp so you should be safe with that for as far as you're going.

Adk46er · Jan 4, 2021

NohleCJ said: ↑

What phone mount is on that?
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It’s the Taco Garage Dashtop Multi Mount with an iBolt composite 2.75” double arm and Tackform motorcycle phone mount.

RWTaco · Jan 4, 2021

Done

Chunk · Jan 4, 2021

RWTaco said: ↑

Done
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Looks good! Took me a second, superb before and after angle shot!

Aqualoon · Jan 4, 2021

RWTaco said: ↑

Done
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Looks MUCH better.

robin303 · Jan 4, 2021

Timmaaaye253 said: ↑

Got some new meatzz! Ditched my 275/70/18 Wildpeaks for some 295/70/18 Geolander G003s. Fills the wheel well much betterrr!

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I like those wheels. What brand are those.
Thanks

Rottencotton · Jan 4, 2021

robin303 said: ↑

I like those wheels. What brand are those.
Thanks
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RallySOP · Jan 4, 2021

RWTaco said: ↑

Done
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Nice, I think you did a much better job of blacking out you plate.

JK, the black is sharp.

dleonard1122 · Jan 4, 2021

RWTaco said: ↑

Done
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Are they caps or did you paint/dip them?

BGTRD57 · Jan 4, 2021

BladesTurning said: ↑

Finally got around to installing my Rago Fab bed stiffeners (Not Pictured, easy install). And took the Family for a ride for some donuts and the Mountains of NM.

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What rooftop box are you using?

Tenacioustuck · Jan 4, 2021

RileysTaco said: ↑

2021 Tacoma has way too many cup holders and not any spots to keep that change organized. Awesome product and love the way in incorporates the color of your truck into the TRD Logo in the center console
https://www.etsy.com/listing/771155546/toyota-tacoma-coin-sorter-3rd-gen-color

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I’ve got one of those with red letters! Dude does great work.

Justinhisle · Jan 4, 2021

CmdrTrekk said: ↑

Sure thing! So I added on the switch because I wanted to be able to turn them off while normal driving in the city (or the summer where it's light until 9:30pm) and then on manually to use as a rock light or camping light. That added some complexity that is optional, but I think for the TW folks it's pretty useful. Here's a story in pictures.

So in MESO's instructions he uses a smaller trim tool to remove the door panel that's too flexible. If you have this one, use it, it's more rigid. You can run the tool right up against the pins and leverage them off the door much easier. It feels more natural and less like you're going to break something. Highly recommend this one. Be careful with the door handle and lock rods. I bent mine and had to bend it back. The trick with the GIANT ASS window switch plug in the inside middle is that it has a locking collar you have to squeeze from the inside and pull back. There's a lock mechanism inside of it I've never seen before, so when you go to plug it back in, watch how that lock works when the collar moves. You want the collar locked all the way open otherwise it won't plug back in.

I didn't have a helper, so a backpack and bungee cord worked great for keeping the side mirror on... You don't REALLY need it because it doesn't just fall out, but just in case. I thought about opening the window but later realized the window sinks all the way down to the speaker so it would be in the way. Be super super careful with those nuts inside those three holes that hold the mirror on. They really want to fall off into the door. I stuck wads of masking tape under mine and I've seen other people fashion toilet paper rolls into catchers. Look at the bolt on there because it tapers and the threading stops. So it's meant to let you lean the socket down to catch the bolt and pull it off carefully.

In the step where MESO talks about running the cord up through the door, cutting open the plastic and grabbing the cord to attach to the mirror, that's all totally unnecessary. Just unbolt your speaker, which weighs a few ounces, and you have full free access to the inside of the door. You can really easily push it up through the plastic and the right channel without cutting anything and maintaining the integrity of your waterproofing material.

MESO tells you to unplug these from the inside so you can manipulate the boot but doesn't explicitly say to just pull them all the way out into the hinge. I think it was implied though. It certainly makes it way easier because the boot needs to be straight and easy to manipulate if you're going to have a chance in hell of getting the thick new cord through it. DEFINITELY wrap the plug and cord in electrical tape like he suggests or it would've snagged and broken for sure. This is by far the hardest part and the instructions recommend patience and other tips that work.

The passenger side is easier because it has fewer wires in the boot so that took half the time. But still pull the plugs all the way out through the hole in the body. It's taken a few days for my cuticles to recover and there's still a cut on my finger but that's just how it goes.

If you're doing a console button (there are almost no instructions for the button) then take off the big chubby AC vent trim piece and the AC switch panel. Unplug everything and put it aside. You should have plenty of access now from the below-steering wheel cover to here. Say hello to any wiring from previous projects and if you're like me, you can untangle some of the rat's nest you might've created from previous wiring. You don't need to take anything else off. If you're doing the left side, then your life will be 100x easier (but MESO's custom pocket buttons panel were sold out).

You MUST ground your wires to metal, not plastic. There are two bolts on either side where all the OEM stuff is grounded. You can access this one through the ignition hole with a big ass extender, or in my case I had a huge power drill flexible extender. The MESO ground has an eyelet on it that just barely fits on this bolt but it fits enough. It'll bend and warp the thing but it's fine. You can screw it on with pliers and a drill until its flush with the washer. Then bolt this back into the other ground wires (that are in my case permanently affixed to that spot so they never moved).

Assorted pieces and parts.

This is what it looks like completed and reassembled.

THESE LITTLE FUCKERS. These are the final clips that hold the interior side mirror moulding cover in place. MESO even mentioned to be careful not to lose these. The trick is to be mean to them. If you put that part back on carefully, it'll push them inside the door. And they fall into a small fold in the steel (I lost 2) and they do not sink to the bottom of the door. You have to pop them in quickly. I ended up going to the dealership and buying 4 more for $18. It was soooo stupid.

Myself and others have had trouble with some sides not working during the test phase (which you should 100% do before reassembly). My driver's side didn't work. And we all had the same issue, that the male side of the plug didn't quite fit right, which made a bad connection to the little pins. Luckily, the pins are pretty rigid and you can flex them a little with the pick tool. BUT what's worth noting, is I ended up switching the driver's side light to the passenger side (on a whim to test it) and they both suddenly worked. I DO NOT KNOW WHY that worked. But once all the wiring and shit is done, the light housing can be picked out of the mirror without taking anything else apart (which I learned on my second try). So if you have an issue, you don't have to start over. You just need to sit under the mirror, pick out the housing and unscrew/unplug the light and mess with it. That'll save you some labor.

OH! And you need a 2mm allen wrench to screw in the lights, which is not in the instructions, so make sure you have one.

The last thing I'll add is that in my truck the dome light harness plug and airbag plug were mounted together on a joint body mount piece that made them perfectly fitted that MESO didn't talk about. I had to remove the bottom half from that mount first before having a chance of getting the new harness in there. It was a total pain in the ass because there's a weird clip holding it in. Detach it from the body first and then use your pick tool to try to slide it off so that it'll flex out like this. This hot mess will fit in your A-pillar but barely.

That's what I learned, hope it helps!
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Thanks for the write up. I’m getting ready to do a this install soon and will def take all the tips I can get.

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