What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Painted the seat trim to match. Started as oak, then I painted it charcoal to match the center console but they were too dark. This color is called granite. Really close. Four light coats of paint and two of matte clear coat.

 

Oh, and if you do this, the vinyl on the back will stay tacky. After two days of drying, I used baking soda. Pour it on, let it sit and then wipe it off with a damp towel. Tackiness gone!

 

Yep - 98-00 do, at least. I keep paper maps and my flashlight there. Works great.

 

it's not fun. haha

and yes the 95-97 do. Pretty small though. Slightly less annoying than the 01-4 though because the door handle is much smaller.

 

I just finished my first clutch replacement in over 20 years, on my 97 Tacoma.... couple thoughts.....

1: parts selection- usually this lines up with different transmissions, induction, engine output, etc. There isn't much other reason to put in a bigger clutch. It's am 08 Subaru Impreza Turbo AWD.... but is it an WRX, WRX STi , 2.5i, Outback Sport, or some other submodel (I know nothing about Subaru, this is just what comes up on the parts machine)... and which engine? These two bits will probably narrow down the answer....

2: oversized bearing and sleeve ought to only be used if there is damage to the crank counterbore. Yu're going to have to wait and measure, IF the answer isn't given by the previous question's answer.....

Slave cylinder/master cylinder (clutch hydraulics)- unless they are 1- ungodly expensive, AND 2- easily accessible when things are fully assembled, YES, do them now. I just replaced my clutch in my 240,000mi Tacoma, and skipped doing the MC and SC, trying to save $100 (ok, also, they were super easy to get to after everything was back together). For that, I got a $200 tow bill at midnight coming back from my girl's house. So saving $100 cost me $200... and I STILL had to go buy the damn $100 in parts!

3: pilot bearing/release bearing: if you DON'T do these when you do the clutch-- grab the biggest ratchet handle you have, and hit yourself in the balls with it. You're welcome. It's an awful lot of work to do to replace them, and if the clutch is gone, they are soon to follow. Spend the extra $20 or so (then again, this is a Subaru, so they could be $200 for all I know). Replace them. They are part of the system, and a lot of work to get to- as in, the entire job must be redone. It's a fool's errand to not do them.

4: Rear main seal: Judgement call. Data points needed: how many miles on the engine? Is it known for leaking at the RMS anywhere around that mileage (or honestly, twice that- because you've already worn out a clutch in that distance, you'll likely be back in there again within twice that mileage). Is there any indication of leakage around the existing seal- wet spots and the like? Honestly- I'm inclined to point right back to #3... grab your wrench... stop sniveling, it's only going to cost money.....

5: Other things to add to the list: Transmission input seal, if it isn't too involved to get to it, or has any indication of leaks, history of leaks in the type of car, etc.....

 

GREAT catch! Flywheel MUST be resurfaced or replaced! Your best bet is to replace it, unless you have something to drive while waiting on the machine shop to get done with it (the local shops are slammed now, for some reason). I bought a new FW for $65. Resurface was going to be $50. Kind of a no-brainer.

 

Make sure you reconnected all the grounds and whatever else you disconnected.

Troubleshooting 101: "What's the last thing you changed before this happened? Put it back." (though changing the "main electrical wires" wouldn't do it. (the "Big three" to alternator and ground, I assume? Or do you mean the ignition wires?

 

All you fuckers with your fancy power windows, plastic door panels & door lights....

 

Installed mine the right way, very easy install.

 

Turns out my wheel bearing blew up and took out my axle seal and possibly my diff. I've got someone looking at it now to see if there's damage to the gears. I have a feeling this is gonna be expensive...

 

SCX24? Where can I get that body?

 

Kinda looks like it was riding on the ABS tone ring too

 

https://store.rc4wd.com/Plastic-Molded-Parts-for-2001-Toyota-Tacoma-4-Door-Body_p_6879.html

 

But i think its an scx10 frame

 

Yeah I was trading work for work with this fabricator who doesn't usually do axle stuff and I don't think he installed it right. Unfortunate lesson to learn, but now I know to just pay the price for good work up front.

 

Your diff gears will be fine.

The bearing is shot and so is that tone ring though.

It is very easy to mess up the seal rings on the axles. It's not hard to get right but easy to overlook.

 

Hoping you're right about the diff. The guy looking at it was saying he couldn't find some of the bearings, and they definitely took out the seal so he was thinking there might be a few in there

 

Got the PN or application handy for that Lexus plug number? I am about to do this job and want to be ready, just in case.

 

Good point. Now I notice there isn't much to indicate scale there. Geez, don't you carry a banana to indicate scale on your pics!?

 

Lexus 90341-24016

I’d get one and replace it anyways, the original Allen design is god awful IMO, too shallow. Hope you don’t have the headache I had with mine.