UCA Replacement Assistance Needed

Hey All,

I'm in the process of swapping out my Icon uniball UCA's for JBA's

When I previously replaced them, I cut the bolt and flipped it. I remember the driver's side being a pain because of the brake lines, but for the life of me I can't remember how I got around them.

Anyone know what I have to unbolt/clip to move them out of the way?

 

I believe those are fuel lines The brake line is thinner tube wound into a coil.

• Unbolt the plastic bracket holding the electrical harness to the strut tower
• Unbolt the 90-deg fitting for the brake line from the frame.
• Using a pocket screwdriver, CAREFULLY pop the fuel lines from their white plastic holders. This will let you spread the fuel lines slightly so the bolt head can fit between them.

 

You're the MAN!

 

Old thread, but I'll be doing this soon. Is it easier to get new bolts and just cut the old ones in half to get them out? Or do you just have the same issue again with the new ones going in? I don't really want to bend anything if I can avoid it.

 

You'll get a ton of different answers here. I've done 2 bolt cuttings and assisted with 1 bending. Cutting seemed easier, but only slightly.

If you opt for new bolts installed in reverse, I'd recommend placing witness marks on the nut/bolt, that way you can see if it loosens... however, if properly torqued, they'll never loosen.

 

The designer of this bolt location is one guy I’d like to have lunch with some day. I actually abandoned my UCA install on my 2011 when I got stuck with the bolt half way out. It’s definitely a curse word library task. Congrats on getting the one bolt out. Hope side two was easier!

 

Driver is a pain... passenger is easier.

 

Any advice on getting the coilover out and in? Does that go pretty easily?

 

Pretty much like any strut assembly. Just make sure to support the wheel hub a little so the cv axle isn’t too stretched.

 

I can't remember the fronts being hard. The rears sucked though

 

I've never worked on a coilover vehicle before. The coilover itself is already assembled, but I assume it still needs to be preloaded a little on the vehicle somehow?

 

No preload needed. Just support the hub with a strap or bungee and be careful of stretching the ABS sensor line. There's a great video on u tube that Total Chaos did. I used this and an OME install helped with the torque settings.

 

Here is the Toyota manual for installing their Pro suspension... should be able to follow the same steps for a coilover. However, if you're replacing the UCA's, you'll already have the spindle disconnected and you won't need to undo the knuckle.

 

It's a great video... I've watched it a ton of times, before attempting my suspension install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbsTJgb6S_c

OP, note that they bend the inner fender in this video. If you choose to cut the UCA bolts, it really doesn't change anything.

 

4 wheel parts never bolted my electrical bracket back on mine after install. Does anyone know the size of this bolt?

 

^Going by memory, it has a 10mm head, which means M6 thread. You can temporarily remove another 10mm-headed bolt from the truck and try it there to verify (e.g. the one on the OEM UCA holding the wire clip).

 

That's exactly what I did I removed one from the power steer reservoir bracket. I just wasn't sure if they were the same length since the power steer reservoir bracket had some sort of gasket.