Which ARB Air Compressor

I'm about *this* close to ordering an ARB air locker for my rear diff from East Coast Gear Supply.

It needs a compressor to run it, obviously, and I'm on the fence about which compressor to get.

The

$241 CKSA12 Air Compressor Compact On-Board 12 Volts DC, Designed Exclusively for ARB Air Lockers Locking Differentials

CKSA12 is $160, and is designed to run the locker(s) and no more.

The

$338 CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation

CKMA12 High Output is $245, a little bigger, and can be used to air up tires. So I wouldn't have to carry my VIAIR 400 portable any more - and I could sell it to make up the difference in cost between the two.

The CKSA12 draws a little less current while running.

Are there any installation considerations? Does the mini compressor fit where the high output won't? I'm thinking of mounting under the hood on the driver side fender, just behind the fuse box mount.

Are there any other differences I'm missing or any other things I ought to be thinking about?

 

I have both compressors the smaller is on my FJ 40 and the larger one on my Tacoma, the larger compressor is the way to go. It will fit in the spot you are planning sounds like the same place we mounted mine. Takes about 5 minutes a tire to air up and the wiring is straight forward.

 

x2 on the larger compressor

 

If you need something to run the lockers for now....get the smaller one to get your lockers operational.

Not familiar with the high output, but just because they say it'll air up tires.....doesn't mean it'll air them up quickly. You might be sitting and waiting a while to air tires up.

I would do some serious researching for a much bigger/better onboard air setup with a separate tank. Something that'll keep the tank full while you air up tires quickly and possibly use air tools.

My husband and I used the ARB air compressor (this was YEARS ago) to get the ARB's functional. Then....gradually collected parts for a full blown on-board air setup with a 2 gallon tank. This was on a Jeep.....so we used the YORK compressor setup. We sold the ARB compressor and were much happier with a full blown onboard air setup.

But, if an onboard setup isn't something you wanna mess with....then definately get the high output compressor.

 

I run the smaller ARB for the locker and have another comp and tank just for tires. It still takes a half hour or so to fill all the tires. If you wanna quick fill CO2 is the way to go.

 

I used to run with CO2 and it gets expensive and a pain in the ass to keep running to have it filled. YOu also have to find a place to mount a tank (upright). Smaller tanks mean more runs for filling.
CO2 is good if you only use it a few times a year and 'on your own'.

Onboard air with the proper sized compressor and tank is the way to go if you use it regularly and have 'friends' who always want your air.

 

I went on east coast gear and watched the vid of the ARB high-output airing up tires.

No surprise, but that thing is *loud* (Same as my VIAIR, really)

No big deal for airing up tires, but I'm not sure I want to listen to that racket while I'm climbing a long, steep, treacherous, technical hill with my locker engaged.

Is it that loud all the time the locker is engaged, or does it pressurize the locker and then shut off? If it stays on all the time, then is the small one quieter?

 

I have the larger arb and it's actually not that loud in my opinion. You will know it's on but not horrible. I put my compressor on te passenger side and it fit great. Airs up my tires fast fast. And durable as heck

 

I rang up ARB USA and talked to Jeff. The scoop is that there's a small tank. So the compressor runs long enough to pressurize the tank and the line (and the void within the diff) and then shuts off. Unless there's a leak in the system, it'll stay off all the time the locker's engaged. If it does come on, it'll come on just for a few seconds to repressurize the system.

So the HO system sounds like the way to go.

 

Good to know.

 

Cool. Do you have a photo of the mount/installation?

 

I can take a picture. However in my installation I wish I had of mounted it against the back of the engine bay ( i will point to it in the picture ) because I want to do a dual battery set up and it would have let me way more room. Also a few guys I know here put a rubber pad under the installation and it helped with sound by 10% or so. FYI

 

Its goin to stay in the floor if you keep talkin about in on here

 

A couple of things. My compressor usually only comes on for a few seconds to fill the Mini tank it came with. Its rated for both front and rear lockers + airing up tires. I think compared to the viar its way way quieter, but thats my opinion. A couple of things on installing, I had a buddy do the same install but he put the compressor on a black rubber gasket base that way it reduced vibration, this made the sound about 10% lower than mine from inside the cab. Also I wish I had of mounted the tank in a different location to free up the area for my dual batt system. My buddy put his under his rear passenger seat in the access cab next to the stock jack (still there).



Switch panel



The mini tank is black, lol just so people see it.



A better view and to see the kind of room we are talking.


This is the place I should have mounted the compressor. I will re-do this in the future.

 

Thanks for the pix.

Not sure I'd have the guts to drill mounting holes in the firewall there, with no way to see for sure what's on the other side that's going to be hit by the drill & sheet metal mounting screws.

 

When I pulled the dash apart to do my ipod install, I found that on the other side is an additional spot to run wires in to the truck. It has tons of space and would be totally clear. Plus the issue I have found is that in that location It takes up too much room how its mounted and under neath you have water and stuff touching. I like that against the other spot its water proof. Also moving that mini tank makes a huge huge diff. It will free enough room to have my second bat set up and not have to loose my CAI. Plus I am a huge stickler for proper weight distribution. Between the hi-lift in the rear, and the dual bats moved, + myself and my girl the truck is only off by 11 lbs on the passenger side. Thats totally anal but I like things to be done right.

 

Started installing this thing yesterday and I'm still not done. Sheesh.

It's going to require cutting some factory harness wires which I'm super uptight about, so I'm going full OCD on the install.

First, I didn't want to just bolt it to the fender, I wanted to isolate it via rubber mounting. So I made a few trips down to ACE Hardware to get the right combination of grommets and rubber fender washers. Fender washers for the fenders. Ha. And of course the mounting bolts are *under* the compressor.

Then, of course it's always a bit of a pain to pull dash bezels and panels. Then pop the switch blanks and trim the holes to accept the ARB switches. No biggie, really. But a bit time consuming.

Read the ARB wiring harness schematic and install guide. The ARB switch illumination light calls for variable input voltage but returns it to ground. But the tacoma's variable brightness rheostat alters voltage between "out" and "in" on the rheostat (green and green/white.) So I made up a little lighting harness that'll just put the ARB switch bulbs in parallel with all the other var-level lights, skipping the 'light' function of the ARB.

Then, the main input to the ARB wants to be on a 10A ignition switched circuit. The most convenient one I can find (remember I *hate* probing and cutting factory wires) is the ignition switched input to the variable rheostat which is on a 10A fuse - but it's a 22 gauge wire! I'm pretty sure that if ARB is axing for anything above about two amps, it's gonna smoke that little wire. Now, that provides power to a relay for the main compressor, but also the differential "air" solenoids. The air solenoids are the ones I'm worried about. So it's probably overkill but I wired up a separate relay to power the ARB harness that is itself activated by that 22 gauge light-green.

I'm probably proceeding with a ridiculous amount of caution on the wiring, but I've had the experience of having a BCM (body-control-module) fail on a brand new car shortly after having a "pro" wire in an aftermarket stereo. And I never Ever EVER want to have that happen again.

I'll post up an install thread with pix after it's all done.

 

Hey bjmoose - revitalizing an older thread. Just curious how this ended? I will be doing the same shortly.

Thanks
Pap

 

x2 My

$338 CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation

CKMA12 is on the UPS truck right now.