E locker stuck in locked position after gear swap

I just had my gears swapped out yesterday in my 2021 (I didn’t do the setup) and I put it all back together today. I drove it down the road a little and found that my rear is locked in 2wd. Jacked it up and it confirms that it’s locked with both wheels spinning same direction. If it was unlocked it should spin one forward and one reverse. Any clue as to where to start or look for. All connections are tight. Do I need to pull the third to do further inspection? The entire time we were pulling and installing the pumpkins the battery was disconnected.

 

Sounds like you put it back together wrong. There's a sensor that when reinstalled incorrectly can cause this. There's another thread somewhere explaining how to fix it, on my phone at work or I'd find it for you.

 

That is not a commonly reported issue (that I am aware of).
You did the correct test to actually verify the locker is locked (jack rear tires and check for differential action of the rear axle).
What about lock indications on the dash? You should have a flashing locker indication to let you know your locker is still engaged even though it has been commanded off...

If you DONT have a dash lock indication (flashing locker light), then there is a 99% likely chance that there is ALSO an issue with the locker feedback switch on the differential. It is VERY plausible that something on the switch is interfering with the diff lock plate to cause both issues, but that is really just me grasping at straws.

If you DO have a dash lock indication, it is probably more likely just something wrong on the 3rd member I think.


NOTE, the locker feedback switch can ONLY be correctly installed with the diff disassembled, otherwise it requires work-arounds...

Start by reading these threads thru completely.

What is this going into the rear differential? | Tacoma World
E locker Failure | Tacoma World

 

I have verified with tires off the ground that they both spin the same direction. No lights on the dash. I will try to relive the black plug sensor and see if that does anything and then if need be remove the third again to see what’s going on. Before installing all electrical connectors were connected securely.

I have searched through the forum before asking the question but most everything I am finding is the older versions of the dif.

What is the actual factory Locker brand that way I can look up info on it?
Thanks for everyone’s help and I’ll keep it updated with what I found. I agree this is unusual.

 

If you dont have dash indications, there is VERY likely something going wrong with that feedback switch. And if there is something wrong with that switch, logically (guessing) that same root cause is probably related to your locker remaining locked.

You didnt do a bad search, there is not much that has been reported to go wrong with that 3rd gen rear diff locker. The feedback switch is the primary thing reported damaged, usually occurring during re-gearing (but not always)...

Good Luck
Keep us appraised.

 

Are you certain it is 'hard' locked and it is not just the limited-slip differential rolling both tires in the same direction?
Like the other guys said, you should be getting a dash light if it is a hard lock failure on command off.
You have an off-road, try hitting the button to activate LSD-OFF then see if the wheels spin opposite.

 

3rd Gen LSD doesn’t work that way. It’s simulated and uses the the brakes to slow down the slipping side.

But I will echo that the OP should re test and get someone to actually hold one rear wheel and try to spin the other side. Being so new, the internal friction might cause the carrier to act locked until some resistance is applied to one side.

And OP - what caused you to believe the diff is locked while driving? Difficulty turning? One wheel chirping on turns?

 

I will have some help here in an hour or so and will do a few more tests. I will also pull the feedback switch to see if that does anything. We only removed the feedback switch from the housing when the locker/gears were being pulled and reinstalled. Never put it back on until it came time this morning to put it back in the housing.

I am sure that the rear is locked. Driving it down the street it is locked tighter than my Detroit lockers were in my '71 bronco.

 

I found this thread with calling out for the feedback switch (didn't know what it was actually called) with information on what to do when reinstalling it with going to 4 low and such so I'll give that a try as well.

Slide 19 and 20 show and explain that switch a little better and am betting that the sensor is not like this in the pic where short is not engaged and extended is engaged.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/help-needed-r-diff-lock-indicator-switch.692239/

 

Hot wire it and see if the lock/solenoid is engaging.

 

You must install the indicator switch with the carrier OUT of the 3rd member. If you install it last you will push the position plate in which pushes the cam ring into engagement, locking the diff. And the indicator switch will be compressed and not extended so the truck will not indicate the diff is locked.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-indicator-switch.692239/page-2#post-24459836

However, there have been some guys that have gotten around this and gotten the switch in properly with the carrier installed.

 

Exactly what I found. Pulled the carrier and installed the switch and reinstalled carrier. Haven’t ever messed with electric lockers (always Detroits and spools)before so now we know.

 

Reviving this from the dead. This shit just happened to me with a fully assembled 3rd from ECGS. I was pretty god damn lost until I stumbled on this thread, as well as the ones linked.

SOLID stuff here. Thank you...

 

I just installed an ecgs 3rd member and it is doing the same thing. What did you do to fix it?

 

I’m not really sure how to explain it, other then it’s gonna sound stupid and involves a BIC pen lid that you are cool with letting yours gears eat…





It’s either this, or disassemble it, set the plunger on the correct side, and re assemble it again.

 

Hey idk if you figured it out yet, but I was having the same issue. Found out I can engage and disengage my locker in 4 lo only now. Used to be able to do it in 2 hi ‍♂️

 

My dude, thanks for this info. Just wondering is there any trick to getting this out? Is it just the 10mm nut and pull it out, then use the pen trick?

Just installed gears I did myself on my 2018 or and having this issue

Edit: got the pin/plunger out, tried the pen trick a couple times. Seems like when I get it in there I can deactivate the locker, but the diff lock warning light comes on. What am I missing

 

Super easy, just unscrew the sensor and you are on your way.

 

Ah right I got that part but I'm having issues getting it over the ring, I think. I have been able to deactivate it but then I get the warning light. Gonna have more pen in there than oil soon haha...

I may just get it to deactivate and then wait til break-in oil change to just pull it out and do it right. Not having any luck right now

Edit: for anyone in the future, don't be stupid like me. That plunger we are talking about is NOT the actuator, it just behaves like one if you install it wrong. You may have luck with the pen method, I did not (I don't have that light, loving touch). I decided to say F it, unplug the sensor, make a cover plate, tape up the connector, and call it good. At least until break in oil change, where I may regain the testicular fortitude to pull it out. After all, it really is damn quick to remove all said and done.

Thanks a ton for the help, and if I read more closely, I probably would have saved alot of time.

 

I just regear and I’m having the same issue. Is the pin supposed to be on the bottom of the differential plate or what?is my best bet to just take off the whole thing out?