TheCochese's Project Con Queso

It's possible some unofficial progress on the bumper is happening. Saw a higher number order appear on their IG story. Couldn't tell if it was a Tacoma or 4R bumper.

Time to start seriously talking about running power.

 

OK, here's a rough draw out. Could use some feedback. Note: All the accessories aren't wired into the same relay, switch, and ground. Just simplified for clarity.


I'm not sure if I use a similar breaker for the winch and compressor that I need to fuse those. I am also unclear as to when I would tap into the ACC ON fuse, before or after the breaker.

For the winch and the air compressor I don't mind that I wouldn't have an interior switch. I'd want to probably control those from under the hood. The air compressor could stay on for the entire run if I needed to engage the future air locker(s) or at the end of the run to air back up. The winch would obviously only be needed in certain situations, and I'd have to be at the winch to unspool anyway.

Otherwise, I think I know the purpose of the terminal panel, just not how it works. And I assume I need a separate relay for every switch?

 

Quick glance, it looks good to me.

 

I think the aux fuse box is missing a ground, and I'm not sure where to pick up the source 12v for the switches.

 

Also ordered the Pro scoop vinyl. I like the look and maybe it will also cut down on glare.

 

The 12v for the switch LEDs I pulled over from the interior fuse box using an add a fuse. The 12v to operate the switches I pulled in from my added fuse block added under the hood.

 

Both are very low draw, so all my switches share the same LED feed and the Feed from under the hood. I think the LEDs are fused by 3 or 5 amp and 14 gauge, while the under the hood is probably 16 ga an 5 or 10 amp, I can check.

 

I bought a breakout harness from a guy here to tap into the bed light switch. It has illumination(+) and ground wires built in, so at least for up to three switches in the cubby I can just tap in right there. I'd just have to run the (+) relay and tap into a source. I didn't know if I could just spiral both and if something like the Blue Sea had a source tap.

It's been so long since I did any sort of wiring shenanigans. Except for car stereos, the last time was probably on my El Camino. I added a bicycle gear cruise control to my Jeep, but there was no wiring there.

 

Pretty sure the fuse box doesn't need a ground. There's no work being done in there, no wattage being consumed like a motor or light bulb. When you think about it, what would get grounded anyway? The case? Its just a plastic box with a bunch of positive leads and their corresponding fuses

Choosing a source for your switches comes down to how much wiring clutter you will tolerate. A 1-2 added circuits could just get their power from the battery positive terminal, but any more than that and you've got a rats nest at the battery. Same thing in the fuse box, 1-2 added circuits is ok, any more than that and you're hacking up the fuse box.

Given all the electrical components you want to add, I'd just go straight for an aftermarket accessory fuse panel. Then you can just have 1 clean (big gauge) connection from battery positive to the new fuse panel. Much cleaner looking

 

Makes a lot of sense too should somethin’ goes wrong at least you can trace it without needing a Section 8.

 

Sorry for the confusion, that is what I'm doing. Likely a Blue Sea on a mount with a breaker.

I also guess that my breaker will be way higher than I need initially for just the one light. I suppose I could swap out higher ones as I go?

 

Do some math to get a rough total of all the wattage you'd be using with the winch running, air compressor running and a few ditch lights turned on. Start with a breaker rated in that general area.

 

May have to go 3 pole if you add the Stereo.

 

I've seen a recommendation to wire the winch up directly to the battery behind a cutoff. I was considering doing the same for an air compressor. I want to have to be intentional to supply power, as I won't need either often.

 

That makes sense. The Blue Sea panel would handle all the lighting and possibly more low amp accessories later on.

Should be able to find aftermarket positive battery terminals that have extra studs for attaching big gauge leads. That'd be your best best to avoid clutter at the battery

 

Thought about this a bit more and realized that I wouldn't want scene lights on a switched accessory line. If I even get that far. The rest I should only be using when the engine is on or in the accessory position.

So...here's where I think I'm at, and I'm going to post in the aux fuse thread soon to cast a wider net. I think the best course of action to provide the power to the switches is to add a fuse or otherwise tap into lines in the cab instead of running a line all the way back to the engine fuse box. That way also I only have to pull so much wire through the firewall grommet.

Now I need to figure out a slick way to keep the relays neat and be able to hot swap if necessary. The relay boxes I see also contain fuses, and I bet I don't want to do that.

 

Material received for the bumper. Might get shipped out in a couple of weeks.

 

I'm not sure if this is enough room for this depending on what you have planned...

MICTUNING 12-Slot Relay Box,6 Relays,6 ATC ATO Fuses Holder Block with 41pcs Metallic Pins for Automotive and Marine Engine Bay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4PRG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EWgaGbFFFKXX6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Ok, so my assumption here is this isn’t a supplement to the Blue Sea, but a replacement. Fuses and relays in one container. Maybe more of a comparison with the Bussman?

 

Yeah closer to bussman, not sure what all your plan is. This would be a way to accommodate more relays and fuse box in one. Since I used a power tray, had a blue sea, and a 4 relay holder I just put all of that together. I had considered this Mictuning box, but I had most of the other stuff. If I get to working on the LandCruiser at some point, I would probably get one for it.