I just wanna rev past 3k

So have searched the interwebs and as many threads on here that I could find related to my issue. Ive got a 1997 Tacoma with a 2.4 wont rev past 3k approx don't have a live data scanner or tach. Idles beautifully but at 3k it acts like it hits a limiter and occasionally backfires. Only cel the entire time I've been diagnosing this has been p0100. Cleaned maf and code went away but not the issue. still looking for a known good one to test before I replace. the truck was a mess when I got it so been chasing this issue since the hg repair.
parts replaced: tps( would short out at 20 percent throttle) replaced with oem unit
*crank sensor did not test bad but read multiple threads with it causing a similar/same problem and was on the higher ohm range
*cap *rotor *new wires(ngk) and *ngk plugs have even warrantied the items to rule out defective parts
*fuel filter
Need a distributer plug and maf plug if any one has a spare hacked harness they would want to part with. mine have nicks in the wires that I repaired but I would want to repair.

reason for the thread is if im missing anything obvious or a experience you guys had that maybe will help. Im now moving away from ignition and thinking fuel am going to dissect that system later this week. thanks in advance and all advice or criticism welcome.

 

Is it getting enough fuel? (Have you replaced the filter) Do you have an aftermarket intake? Any vacuum leaks? Fuel good? Too low octane computer may be pulling spark and timing to prevent knock or miss fire.

Not reviving over 3k under what conditions?

In park?
In neutral?
Manual or Auto trans?
While driving under load?

 

The detecting condition for P0100 is "Open or short in mass air flow meter circuit with circuit engine speed 4,000 rpm or less."

And..."If the ECM detects DTC "P01 00" it operates the fail safe function, keeping the ignition timing and injection volume constant and making it possible to drive the vehicle."

So, this explains why it would not drive very well once the CEL code is set.

 

Sorry, truck is 5 speed has the issue stationary and under load. stock as can be oem intake no vacuum leaks, fresh 93 octane and yes filter has been replaced

 

Cool I agree and seems like it may have been the issue all along. That code is recent showed up after the tps install 3 days ago, as soon as i find one to test and confirm or one for under 100 ill confirm. Thank you for the reassuring thought

 

Did you adjust the TPS correctly when you installed it using a feeler gauge and ohmmeter as specified in the repair manual procedure?

 

With the engine idling tap the maf lightly with the handle of a screwdriver. If the idle fluctuates the maf sensor is bad (or so I hear)

 

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor?

 

Wait a moment..............

If you don't have a tach, then how do you know the engine speed? Calibrated ear???

 

take her to a muffler shop and have them see if the cat or exhaust is plugged.

 

I would assume OP have a live data scanner

 

The OP has stated he does not have these tools.

 

You are correct..... must have a very fine tuned ear but I wonder how he know his truck is throwing a p0100

 

Crank position sensor happens somewhat often

Never seen it outside of a 3.4 though

 

75 mph max is how my buddy determines his with a broken tach

Also having another 3.4 next to it you can tell ones not reving

But this was on a 3.4

 

I figured stating that the rpm was "3k approximate as i don't have a live data scanner and tach" would suggest that the actual specific rpm is unknown but sorry for confusion shoulda made the title "my car cuts out dont know when or why"
Thank you for your input tho

You should sign up for my men who stare at goats workshop. we'll be teaching how to read dtc with your mind. Its very popular hope they don't create a machine that reads those things for you. bad for biz


regardless picking up a maf tomorrow since I haven't been successful in finding a live data scanner. well see how it goes

 

yeah most accounts I read were a 3.4. Decided to replace mine cause it was oiley and crusty, and found a new one for a good price. Figured if it worked it woulda been cool and if not i dont have to think about it in the back of my mind. thanks tho man

 

You say you're picking up a new sensor and mention you got it for a good price... hopefully you're not getting an aftermarket variety one. I strongly recommend Denso only for all sensors, when I rebuilt my motor I went with a few after market sensors and was chasing electrical gremlins for awhile.

TLDR Bought the right stuff and it was all fixed

 

denso crankshaft position sensor and oem tps but yeah ive read the stories and the right sensors are not always much more expensive

 

Where are you? I have access to everything you need to help find your problem.