Shift lever broke while driving

call any welding shop. They will have it done in 10 min. Then you can replace it with a new oem whenever you want.

Where are you located? There are plenty of people on here that can burn a bead on it for you.

 

"Should have gotten the manu...."

Oh...

 

there's a post on here where the same thing happened but the owner said it was because if his URD short throw shifter add-on

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-short-shifter-2016.455828/page-7#post-17250970

 

^ .... This !!!!!

 

You can still drive your truck......

Reinstall shifter

Use a pair of vise grip pliers and lock the pliers onto the shifter stub . The vise grip pliers will allow you to easily shift thru the gears

 

Not defective metal, just a bad part. Weld it up and get back on the road. Upgrade it later.

 

Weld on a tall ass ratfink shifter

 

metal that broke is also not a bad part? one of those things is not like the other.

Defective metal led to the broken part

 

Defective metal is a material problem. If the material was bad many shifters would be breaking or at least many shifters from that batch. A bad part is one fabricated poorly. That is what happened here. It was likely manufactured with a crack, void, or discontinuity. It's a process problem, not a material problem. Every mass manufactured part will have rejects, some don't get caught.

 

You have friends? Maybe you got House'd. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLgpT0_Bk6w

 

you're splitting hairs to the absolute finest nanometer that hairs can be split.

 

I think what he’s saying is that one slipped through QC. I could be wrong though

 

welding it would more then likely cheapest and strongest especially if its common for your model. if they guy does it right it will out live the truck

 

I had a 87 4x4. I did an engine swap on it. When I got the new engine installed I had some brackets left over. Turns out they were the brackets to hold the engine and transmission together. After driving a little bit, the truck got harder to change gears. In the middle of the night I was at a stop sign. The truck was in neutral. I tried to put into first gear but it would not go. I tried to force it but it was just would not go. While trying to force it, there was a huge snap. I had to have the truck towed. The next day, I was looking it over and found that when the clutch was pushed in, it had so much force that the engine and transmission would separate causing the transmission to not change gears. I had a friend who worked on transmissions check it out. That huge snap was the forged steel gear fork inside the transmission. I could believe I broke that.

 

Likely a continuity issue in the metal such as an inclusion which occur naturally in carbon steel. One of the reasons super steels made from powder are superior for consistent strength and hardness. Just like lumber can have knots, steel can have abnormally arranged carbon or metal contents creating a weak point prone to failure.

 

My 2 cents, which are worthless of course...

I wouldn't really say that part broke, because those 2 parts weren't ever really connected in any meaningful way.
I VERY much doubt that you are seeing a defect internal to a bar of metal from the mill, and I have never seen an internal defect that looked anything like that.

Instead, to me it looks like shifter shaft is made of at least 2 parts. The length of the (2) parts must be sized by grinding, which almost certainly causes the coloration and most of the markings you are seeing on both sides of the 'break'. The (2) parts must then be attached by welding, bonding, brazing, etc. Based on the pictures, I would assume that it was welded, with almost negligible penetration and any weld bead (if it exists) was ground off before paint.

As said above, weld that thing together (even one of my crappy welds would be ample), spray some paint on it, and don't think about it again for the life of the truck...

 

I would sleeve it with a piece of tubing welded on both sides and call it good. Temporarily you could sleeve it and run it without welding if the fit were tight enough, the sleeve cannot fall below the cone.

 

Hello fellow NDT.

 

Is that covered by the 60k drivetrain warranty ? It’s part of the transmission... don’t see why it wouldn’t be covered .

 

That kind of bluing is typical for heat treated hardened steel, not specifically something to be concerned about.