Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Honestly no because the time involved to build a one off bumper doesnt make sense for me and would probably be twice as much as you could buy one for. I also don’t want to get into the bumper business as the market is flooded

 

I think he was thinking one that was meant for the hacked lower frame section moved up and a front skid to match. I totally get your point about the market being flooded they've pretty much been done everyway possible and many looking very similar with little differences to tell them apart without a keen eye.

 

Nice work

 

Thanks!

 

#JDBumperMod

The turd gen looks all polished up and ready for the punch bowl. Magnetic Grey is super nice looking...shoulda woulda coulda. Good to see the badging on the products.

JD killing it in the taco game, and considering what's on the horizon, gonna make the rest of the "race fab" products look like pepboy specials.

 

A skid for a modded bumper would be a one-off as it really depends how the bumper is modded and a new cross member is fabricated

 

Would you mind sharing pics of the tabs and modded front cross bar? If it’s simple enough i can weld them on myself rather than shipping it to you

 

wait... it's black. lol I need to clean my screen lol. #dirtyfridays

 

Anyone know if th JD fab uca gussets work with spec u headers?

 

It just has two tabs welded on for the skid. If you have a welder it’s a very simple process as all you have to do is bolt the skid on and the lower tabs will line up where they need to be welded on

 

Good question. If you get solid motor mounts it probably will keep the motor from flexing against the gussets under torque

 

You could always just notch the double shear to fit

 

How well does the LCA kit fit to the frame for an initial gap? Is the Gap close enough to TIG weld? I have noticed all of your installs appear to be MIG welded and the stacks of dimes are impressive though the only welder I have that will do thicker material is A Synchrowave 350 and i am confident in my welding abilities with TIG even in the out of position joints this would require but I prefer not to try to bridge a gap with TIG where MIG makes that so much easier. Just trying to determine if i need to start looking around for a 220 Mig Machine to rent/borrow

 

It would honestly be a nightmare to tig weld, getting the torch inside the pockets is something I would never want to do. My suggestion is borrow a mig welded and be done with it

 

I used a mig, and my booger welds are holding up just fine.

 

Is your shop able to fabricate "C" channel, or bend rectangle tubing and split it in 2 to get a left and right side? Some type of inner flange repair kit for the rear frame sections of 3rd gen 4runners would be a nice product to be able to purchase.

 

I'd expect that with a little fitting the gaps would be very tight. I've installed a couple other versions, and some grinder time, with a little BFH, made the it up very good.

So much this^^^^

I've done other versions with a TIG and it's a cast iron bitch: no room for filler wire, shitty torch angle, and hard to see. But doable if that's all you have.

 

Sorry I don’t follow

 

3rd Gen 4runner frames are fully boxed, its an outer "c" channel and a inner "c" channel that fits inside of the outer section, then welded together. Here in the rust region, the 'Runners all rot out along the weld seems and it spreads quickly. The only repair "kits" available are from safety-cap, which require the lower section of the frame to be sliced off then their product slips over the frame section from the bottom and gets burned in place.

Lots of the frames could be saved if a kit was available that allowed for the rotted inner "c" sections to be cut out, then a stronger inner "c" section installed in it's place.

Here's my 'runner. It's at a point that it needs some attention. This is a good example of how these frames rot in the rust belt.

 

WAY beyond repair status. The frame needs to be replaced or have large sections refabricated and then it will need periodic rust prevention treatments. Adding more metal isn't the answer. That is a failed frame and a safety risk. Talk to a local fabricator and you are looking at a body-off repair or replacement.