DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Completed my full flush for my automatic transmission last week. Shout out to mountain lion(OP) and Fortech(OP) for their invaluable assistance. It took me awhile to finish, primarily because I'm a tad bit slow.
I used the 5 gallon pump sprayer to refill my transmission with Valvoline Max-Life synthetic. That worked like a charm! When I put my Tacoma into AT temp check mode, it surprised me how quick it entered. I double checked the next morning with the air temps a little cooler and after about 11 minutes my Tacoma entered AT temp check mode. Just a trickle came out both times.
Once I got comfortable with the procedure, it went as both OP's indicated. Felt good completing that task. Saved some $$$ for sure.

 

I just installed the obd fusion app and both trans temps are there after adding the Toyota advanced diagnostics add on. Is the pan temperature #1 or #2?

 

Its one if your equation is the same as mine.

 

Thank you! So pan temp is #1.

 

Yep

 

Did a drain and refill x3 on my 09 yesterday. Temp check mode process was super easy and took about 15 minutes for the light to turn solid. Think I’ll do another drain refill after a few hundred miles and continue every 30k miles.

 

I am missing something about the critical-nature of the check-at-correct-transfluid-temperature concept.

I get that the transfluid is initially cold and expands when heated. So checking it hot makes sense - as that would be the typical operating condition. OK; got it.

BUT . . . . the volumetric coefficient of thermal expansion of lube oils is about 0.00070 (this is per degree C). So over a 100º range the volume increases well less than 1%.

Why wouldn't it be accurate to open the overflow until it stops draining. Replace the overflow plug, start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes or so, shift to all gears, and then back to P. Shut the engine off and remove the overflow plug. When it stops dripping fluid - torque the plug and drive away happy?

What meaningful thing does the 'at strict temperature' process provide for us?

PHM
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Don’t throw that into the mix. We’re still trying to figure out why don’t we just have a dip stick.

 

Just another heads up

When performing the fluid level check your engine needs to be running .
Some guys are skipping this part of the procedure and are driving away with a very very low transmission .

 

Anyone elses rpms go lower than 1000 while doing the temp check? About 5 or 600rpm.

 

Thanks for the write-up. I'll add a couple things that weren't in the OP but I'm sure have been mentioned at some point. I have a 2015 TRD Sport, when I initiate AT Temp mode the light will come on for 2 seconds but does not come on again when put in park. I tested it out before doing the flush and although this doesn't match the procedure from the original post, the truck was definitely still in the AT Temp mode (light comes on when the correct temp is reached).

I picked up 12L of Toyota WS fluid for the job. I flushed about 11.2 liters of old fluid out. I added 300mL extra before initiating the AT Temp mode to check the level. When the light came on I removed the overfill bung and nothing came out. I added my final remaining 500mL and tried again. This time once the light came on about 250mL came gushing out before it turned into what I would consider a light trickle. So it appears mine was low ~550mL.

My hand pump that threads onto the bottles took forever to pump all that fluid. Got me thinking of upgrading in the future. Anyone know of a good option? The

$195 Mityvac MV6400 Fluid Dispensing System for Filling or Topping Fluids, 1.2 Gallon Reservoir, Manual Pump, Pressure Gauge and Relief Valve, Auto-shutoff Valves, 5' Hose with Flow Control Valve

Mityvac MV6400 looks like a good option but a bit pricey for what it is.

Yeah mine was lower than usual, didn't really concern me as it seemed to be idling smoothly still.

 

Sprayer method! ~$10

 

How much does that aerate the fluid?

 

.1%

 

I'm just looking back at the recent posts about this sprayer method now. Wish I would have seen that before hand pumping 12 liters of ATF! Going to definitely use a sprayer in the future. Thx for the tip

 

Just did mine as well, full flush, and the exact same thing happened to me, the AT light would blink for two seconds after the D to N shifts but would not blink for two seconds after putting in P. After 20 plus attempts with the same thing happening (thought I had pulled a Tug Speedman and gone full retard) I let it idle and 20 min later the the AT light came on.

Has this happened to anyone else, or just with Audi and myself? I think we’re good but I’d feel a lot better about it if a few other members shared similar experiences.

 

I went through some of the older posts and it sounds like the light doesn't come on a second time when putting it in park for 2012-2015 models

 

Beautiful! I was losing my mind!!!

 

Started doing this a few weeks ago thanks to all the great write-ups and pics. Love this forum! Of course, it wouldn't be typical if I didn't create a problem or two along the way...

Truck is closing in on 190,000 and I had noticed the tranny "shudder" at 35-40 mph. The first drain, I thought I'd tapped into a maple syrup container as the fluid was a nice dark brown. Got just barely 2L. Refilled with Valvoline and the 10 oz. bottle Lubeguard and no more shuddering! Very pleased about that!

Second D&F yesterday... I noticed the drain bolt binding on it's way out but didn't think anything about it. Fluid was slightly less brown with just a hint of red to it and got 2.8L this time. Upon re-installing the bolt, I knew something wasn't right and, sure enough, it would start to snug up and then loosen back up. Oh, the joy! I went ahead and put the fluid in and will be checking to see if it is leaking after I finish my coffee and get dressed...

Anyone have suggestions as far as fixing my mistake vs. having to buy a new pan/bolt (and if so, best retailer to check out)?