Otis24's Otisbound Outdoors Bodonkadonk Supercharged Twin Locked Micro Camper Build (OOBSTLMC)

Because of my experiences on the highway during my regear break in period, I now have compassion for slow drivers. Now if I'm behind some old person driving ridiculously slow, I tell myself, maybe they are breaking in their new gears and to not react.

 

Nice!

What version Tundra?

Do you have any kind of build thread or whatever anywhere?

 

I will when I do! I have a 2005 Tundra DC lined up to buy privately. Hopefully before the holidays but maybe after (he’s lining up his next ride now).

I build a lot of things! Excited to try this out! Nice truck!

 

Just checking in for updates.

 

(artists rendering of the status)

 

Nothing new. Just breaking in the new gears.

YOU SHUT YOUR GODDAMNED DIRTY MOUTH WHEN YOURE TALKING TO ME!!!

 

Actually, sometimes it does feel that way.

 

I replaced the stock 30 tooth speedometer gear that’s attached to the transfer case with a 33 tooth gear.

On 33” tires with 4.88’s the speedo was 14% actual.
Now it’s more like stock at 6% over actual.

I went to start the truck to go for a test ride but the starter wouldn't engage. It would spin but no engine engagement.

When I removed the starter I found the bendix was crooked and the bearings were cooked.
you can kind of see the pic below where the gear is slightly off center.

 

Another of Timmy’s video was super helpful
https://youtu.be/WV1t5-wcoOI

I was able to reach the upper bolt with a flex head ratchet and a short extension.
I think Tim uses the same harbor freight ratchet on the video about replacing motor mounts.
Also, I have no sway bar and was able to pull the starter out rearward above the steering rack.

 

I’ve put about a hundred miles on the truck since the diff fluid change and completion of the break in period.

Bodonkadonk is by no means fast but it’s quick for a 5700 pound first gen Tacoma.

The S/C definitely helped but the S/C + 4.88’s makes it so much better to drive.

Big Shout Out to-
http://www.rearendspecialties.com/
They’ve been fantastic!

 

Light mods

 

Fucken Mark

 

It wasn’t me!
@theed

 

Like Mark says, he doesn't do aesthetic mods, so he delegated them all to my toddler

 

She did a good job.

 

Today I installed a switch in the camper so I can have the solar controller charge either the starting battery or the camper batteries. The most current through the switch is going to be 10 amps so it’s a little overkill.

 

I've had this short in the overhead console for awhile. As soon as you turn a light on the fuse goes.

I took it apart in October while I was camping and didn't see anything obvious. Otherwise I've done nothing to sort this out.

Today I did a continuity test between the positive wire for the overhead console lights and the negative on the battery...I got a tone. I did the same thing with various spots on the truck that looked like good grounds...same thing...got a tone. The blue positive wire for is shorting out somewhere.

Today I pulled all the wiring and rearranged some things.
The wires are all stuffed into 3/4" woven conduit. There's a blue and black 14 gauge wire that powers the lights in the console as well as a pair of USB ports, red and black 10 gauge wires for my ham radio and some yellow 20 gauge wires that turned on the front facing camera I used to have. The conduit is pretty stuffed.

The conduit goes from the fuse block next to the brake booster across the top of the firewall and then down and through the fire wall via the A/C drain hole. From there it goes to the passenger side kick panel, up the A pillar and above the headliner into the sheet metal and drops back down into where the stock mirror/map light thing was.

So, I cut all the zip ties in the engine bay and pulled back all the conduit as far as I could and inspected the blue wire for any exposed wire. I did the same thing from the inside. I couldn't find any damaged to the wire.

Then I decided I didn't like how the conduit was originally routed and pulled the whole thing through the firewall.

I messed around with the multimeter and conuity tests and narrowed it down to the USB ports. I never use them so I cut them out. So, when the fuse blew in the past I could smell electrical/plastic burning smell. The little sealed box on the USB thing smelled like that a lot.

I tested it out. No more blowing fuse and the interior lights work. Perfect.
I stuffed the conduit back through the firewall and just need to replace the zip ties tomorrow.

Top side of the overhead console.


Using a stick that lives in the camper to hold up one side of the console.
This thing is a gigantic pain in the ass to take down and put back up.

 

Also I've been chasing a P0171 code forever.
The whole fix the interior lights thing was because I really needed something to work on that wasn't the F'ing P0171 code.
I think I might have actually fixed it today.

 

At some point I'm going to bedliner the cab of my truck.

Should I bedliner the camper as well?

 

Just dip the whole truck in Raptor Liner.